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SMM · 01-13-2012, 07:21 PM

For the most part I agree with your methods.

I do tinting differently. I use a base black and reduce it to desired shade spray on. Just be careful not to reduce it to much or it will react, then clear. A lot easier to do different shades.1 Because if you keep spraying it the way you said to make it darker the clear will eventually run. 2. If you do it my way you can reduce it pretty light and recoat until you get the shade you want (paint dries faster so u can recoat quicker and save clear) 3. They wont look as shiny because you have paint mixed in the clear.

( If you have foggy headlights wet sand outside good with 1000 grit then clear, they will look almost brand new)

Also want to add, there are clears you reduce and clears you do not reduce. I always wet sand final coat in this order (nice cars) 1000,1500,2000,3000. Then hit it with compound and polish. In addition I use 2k primer over body work mostly (thicker) helps give it an even surface, I always wetsand 2k primer with 600 then 800.

Another thing to note is they make different hardeners for clears depending on temps. Slow, Medium, Spot and Panel which is fast.

I know prices vary in different areas but around my area I can get 1 gallon matrix clear with medium hardener for $100 and a 1gallon of Martin Senour Paint for $80(napa) just get a vin with the color you like call dealer get paint code.

If you are on a budget that is your best bet. I work for a body shop and that is what we use on our cheaper jobs and to be honest they look amazing.

I have done side jobs with that clear/paint/ and a harbor freight gun and people didnt believe me because it looked so damn good. I will post up pictures when I get a chance. For the most part its all about getting the clear down good and then a nice wetsand and buff.

A few final notes. Never use enamel. When using metallic paint stir bottom of can VERY GOOD so it mixes evenly and shake, shaking the can alone will not cut it a good portion of the flakes stick to the bottom. 3M products are very good and reasonably priced.

That is all for now.

01-13-2012, 07:21 PM	#56
SMM Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: tampa Age: 36 Posts: 819 Trader Rating: (26)	For the most part I agree with your methods. I do tinting differently. I use a base black and reduce it to desired shade spray on. Just be careful not to reduce it to much or it will react, then clear. A lot easier to do different shades.1 Because if you keep spraying it the way you said to make it darker the clear will eventually run. 2. If you do it my way you can reduce it pretty light and recoat until you get the shade you want (paint dries faster so u can recoat quicker and save clear) 3. They wont look as shiny because you have paint mixed in the clear. ( If you have foggy headlights wet sand outside good with 1000 grit then clear, they will look almost brand new) Also want to add, there are clears you reduce and clears you do not reduce. I always wet sand final coat in this order (nice cars) 1000,1500,2000,3000. Then hit it with compound and polish. In addition I use 2k primer over body work mostly (thicker) helps give it an even surface, I always wetsand 2k primer with 600 then 800. Another thing to note is they make different hardeners for clears depending on temps. Slow, Medium, Spot and Panel which is fast. I know prices vary in different areas but around my area I can get 1 gallon matrix clear with medium hardener for $100 and a 1gallon of Martin Senour Paint for $80(napa) just get a vin with the color you like call dealer get paint code. If you are on a budget that is your best bet. I work for a body shop and that is what we use on our cheaper jobs and to be honest they look amazing. I have done side jobs with that clear/paint/ and a harbor freight gun and people didnt believe me because it looked so damn good. I will post up pictures when I get a chance. For the most part its all about getting the clear down good and then a nice wetsand and buff. A few final notes. Never use enamel. When using metallic paint stir bottom of can VERY GOOD so it mixes evenly and shake, shaking the can alone will not cut it a good portion of the flakes stick to the bottom. 3M products are very good and reasonably priced. That is all for now.