Seems like a long time for the progess I've made sense May while under lockdown.
For a while I struggled to get a speed sensor setup on the 350z diff. Dakota digital says that you can use an ABS sensor as an input to drive the speedo. But I was unable to get a Z33 sensor work unlike the s13 rear sensor. So I mounted a hall effect sensor which now goes to the ecu directly for more accurate speed reading (higher resolution).
The ECU outputs a signal 4.6hz per mph, so 60mph is 277hz which currently drives the Dakota digital. Soon I will replace it with a simple capacitor and resistor setup that converts the haltechs DC output signal to AC which is then readable by the speedo. Below is 2 component circuit being tested at frequencies from 1hz-5khz or up to a little over 1000mph
. it only uses the small ceramic cap and resistor next to the red probe, the rest is a 555 freq gen and transistor to step up to 12v. The scope is hooked up exactly like the gauge cluster would be.
I did it this way as when I was tryn to get abs and hall effect sensor setup on the car the Ecu burned up. Would switch to on the ECU would blink then start buzzing. Mailed it to haltech they told me the main power trace was fried, I probably hooked up jumper cables backwards, and It had to be mailed to Australia for further diag and repair. After 3 weeks emailed em and got the response the microprocessor was damaged and wasnt cause effective to repair. Neded up buying another 1500 at a small discount.
Before putting the ecu back in i wanted corrected something that had been bothering me, the angle of the rear ujoint or pinion angle. While installing the hall effect I noticed the ujoint at the diff had a few degrees movement to it while at the transmission there was almost none. After removing the drive shaft i mounted the angle finder and sure enough my pinion angle was 5 degrees off from the transmission. With a little math I found out I needed to raise the front of the diff ~3\4". After flipping my ploy bush (thick side is normally on top) and a little grinding to the subframe I got this, with less then .5 degrees difference.
No clue where I messed up the first time around but good thing it was a simple fix. Plus now the diff is truly in the stock location and I can run the rear sway bar with out spacers.
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