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Originally Posted by sre30s14
So I have an SR20DET from an S14. No issues for 8 years. Stock boost.
I finally had enough money to boost it and I thought why not. Let's do what it was meant to do.
I send it to the local SR specialist who I have been going to whenever little issues would creep up for the past 4 or 5 years. He says to go past 300 WHP
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From 2005 to 2015 I tuned maybe 50 to 70 sr20 engine with stock gaskets and stock bottom end to 360-420rwhp~ never seen any issues related to power,
It is maintenance, PCV, air filtration, and cleanliness are the biggest hurdles people face.
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A week later, he tells me the pistons are off of some 2JZ-GTE, they are badly scratched up, rings are blown, walls, the whole shebang. The bore would need machining. But the head has already been sent for resurfacing.
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Sounds like a bunch of bullshit to me. And already you made the mistake of resurfacing the head, this can cause some issues with the cam timing, chain slack, something like that iirc. It just shouldn't be done, generally.
And the block needs to be done with a new oil pump- they must be machined together or the entire front of the engine will leak oil constantly while its running.
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1. A 1 year warrantied rebuild that will set me back nearly $3000. Some of the money has already been sunk in. The head has probably been machined by now and the block is washed. This is including a fancy gasket, fancy studs.
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It won't last, it will leak oil, blow oil, piece of shit inbound. Sorry mate just telling like it is. There is no SR "specialist" I can think of even mazworx let me down. Avoid machine work at all costs. Especially one that says the things you are telling me they said. I bet you don't have the tools to check their work, but if you did or do, you will find the cylinders are not the right shape, and wrong size for the pistons, among other issues related to the oil system. People that are very experienced with machine work (50 years working in a machine shop, working on a hundred different types of engines) ROUTINELY screw up the sr20det and 2jz-gte with machine work. In fact I've NEVER seen one come back done right, ever.
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2. Find an S13 SR long block for about $2000 that the seller could give me a warranty on. I could ask my specialist to see if its perfectly sealed etc never opened.
3. Find an S14 SR long block for about $3500, sell the head. Put on the machined head off of the old SR I guess.
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IMO you are in over your head and need to keep anything you do to a simplicity minimum. If you can replace with a stock medium mileage sr20 would be the only thing I Can recommend. Beyond that prepare yourself for a constant slew of issues and at least 5k to 8k in mistakes before finally "learning" enough to keep one of the antique engines together in one piece in today's world.
If you have some decent mechanical ability I would recommend a basic LS swap. Get the mounts, wire it yourself, keep it simple N/A use an aluminum block it will weigh the same as the SR20 and maintain the balance of the vehicle. And provide the 350hp~ you desire.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ce-inside.html
same deal though- get a stock unopened engine with medium mileage. Use a paper air filter. Full factory PCV system.
The tough part is the transmission though, I really don't have a good solution besides buy a brand new unit from tremec or something along those lines (prepare to spend 5k to 8k in transmission stuff)
In my application I used a 4l80e but the 4l80e is only useful for power over 550rwhp because of it's weight, and you have to rebuild one yourself or it too will be a huge piece of shit.
gl