Quote:
Originally Posted by thom
Hi guys,
I just finished with this swap .....
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GS6-53DZ gearbox
Pmc gearbox adapter plate + flywheel
Pmc chassis mount shifter
Flex plate from auto sr20
Sachs oem clutch
Gearbox seals
Everything else was custom made by me. ( except the driveshaft)
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THANK YOU for sharing this incredible swap journey. It is very helpful!
I have a couple of possible suggestions or comments,
1. I notice the sr20 starter is stuck behind the transmission, you mention trans has to come out to remove starter, What if you used some studs instead of bolts? Or some welded nuts inside the adapter plate? So you can thread bolts of a perfect length in or use studs that stick OUT and make removal possible.
2. The noise and vibrations... I have a couple suggestions,
A. Did you measure the pinion angle of the transmission before making the mount? It may need to be moved up about 1/2" or so. I experienced many swaps such as this in the past where people just made a mount without measuring first and it causes vibrations. I wonder if this is a big issue for you without realizing it. Pinion should be equal and opposite of the differential. I think usually IRS 240sx will give like a 2* or 2.5degree at the pinion so that is the angle you need at the transmission. For example i made a mount for my 4l80e that looked fine, but when I measure it finally it was like 3* wayyy too low on the tailshaft. I had to cut the trans tunnel up to make it fit properly and raise the tail of the trans. I also just went through this in a RHD chaser with a 1jz 5speed swap on a friends car. It is deceiving how high the tailshaft needs to go sometimes.
B. You might add some seemingly random rubber components to the mount and chassis. It sounds strange but... look at a toyota transmission crossmember like for a jzs161, 5speed something, they include these weird rubber parts that for years struck me as odd but eventually I realized they must be there to reduce vibration of specific frequency. Just a thought.
3. The driveshaft is a critical component to be not only balanced but in phase as well. You can't just change the end piece on a typical driveshaft without considering the phase, its relationship with both ends. I 'strongly' recommend getting a custom driveshaft made by a place that specializes in single piece custom swap driveshafts.... for example I used a sikky driveshaft in my LS swap and the key is to NEVER CUT IT, if you have to change the end fine, but don't cut anywhere or try and re-balance the shaft, that is where majority of screw ups occur apparently.
Seems like a great option just needs ironing out. I actually Like the super low first because sometimes you need to move the car up a hill or up a ramp or even to push another car into the backyard (sigh...) and that super low gear is PERFECT for towing or pushing heavy stuff around or when u carry a heavy weight in the car.
Thanks again and pls keep us updated!