Let's all get this straight. The
leading wheel is the wheel with the most angle, the furthest forward wheel while drifting (unless you're going backwards), and the one on the "outside". This is the loaded wheel in drift. Sheesh, we need some standardized terms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Csomme
Care to explain why my first point is a myth? The running more camber will give you a flatter contact patch from the leading wheel? This is not a myth, it's simply truth,
Take an S-chassis, with stock caster let's say(6.7-6.8). if you run 2.5* of negative camber, you are going to see a lot of positive camber at full lock from the leading wheel(This is where the diagonal wheel shit I was talking about comes into play). If you run 6.5* negative camber up front, you have a flatter contact patch and are using more of the tire, because at full lock your leading wheel will have hardly any positive camber.
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I said it was largely a myth. Think of how tilting the tops the coilovers in relates to how the wheel is tilted at full lock. All your coilover does is spin, so at 50* of steering angle, that much camber isn't affecting the "leading" wheel nearly as much as it does when it's straight. Now, dialing some of that camber in with the lower strut mount, and it does affect the leading tire quite a bit. But it also does the opposite to the trailing tire, making it gain more positive camber. Simply adjusting your caster is 10x more effective, as it's what causes the massive positive camber in the first place, and it places more of both wheels on the ground.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo
I just did a practice even two weeks ago, I added some caster by turning my camber plates sideways - and since I needed a little more clearance on the rear of my wheel well I also shortened my tension rods just a little.
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Did you mean added or took away? You add positive caster when you shorten your tension rods, and negative caster if you move the strut tops forward.
It looks like you don't have much caster in that pic. That would explain why you had to make so much input to get the car to go where you wanted. I would recommend shortening your tension rods more, and if you want more negative camber then your strut tops are giving you, lengthen your LCA.