creating a new cluster speedo background and calibrating - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

a_ahmed · 08-03-2006, 12:52 AM

Hey guys,

So, I've got a spare broken speedo that I've got to play with. I disassembled it and wanted to figure out a number of things. I know where the pot for calibrating the speedo is located, I also know the resistor mod to make the thing even 399km/hr capable (useless but none the less...)

Now I scanned in the speedo backdrop, prepped it so I can make my own but I have a curious dilemma.

I may sound as a noob but I honestly don't know. On some car's speedos the distance between the ticks is not consistent between the initial 0-10 and the rest. As I observed the stock 0-180km speedo, the 10km incremenets are all consistent and the thick bold jumps are 20km increments, all that is equidistant except the initial 0-10 which is small.

I've noticed on the euro 0-240, the nismo 0-260 and the tomei 0-280 that the 0-10 is tiny and almost inexistant. Now I could just guesswork and make the distnace between 0-10 tiny and then do the rest equidistantly (not an issue).

However this inital 0-10 is a prob for me... I am sounding completely noob but I don't even know why the initial 0-10 would be smaller. On some cars the 0-10 is equidistant with the subsequent 10km incremenets... but not on some cars and well in our case, yes on our cars.

I'll attach the scan of the JDM 0-180km speedo

a_ahmed · 08-03-2006, 12:53 AM

Here's my scan and I cleaned it up a bit:

a_ahmed · 08-03-2006, 03:16 AM

Well I posted this very same question on another forum and I think someone misunderstood but none the less just to make sure so that people know what I'm talking about... here's what I also posted on the other forum:

--------

Well my question might have not sounded clear and may as well be noobish silly... but I was speaking about the initial 0-10 and its significance in relation to the rest...

Here is a Euro 0-240 cluster:

Notice how the intial 0-10km is much smaller than my scan of the JDM 0-180 (or even the USDM 180km speedo).

The tomei and nismo ones also had a smaller 0-10km space...

Now I am not sure what the relation of this is to the rest... if that 0-10 was STATIC... and insignificant, then I could just print out the 10-20, 20-30, etc... until whatever value I want (say 220, 240, 260, 280, 300, 320). However the 0-10 DID change. Do you notice the difference.

This is my dilemma first.. because if I make a RUBBISH backdrop, that no matte what u cant get to calibrate due to the initial 0-10.. its useless... if I'm making sense do you get what I mean?

I want to know the significance of why the intial 0-10 is smaller than the rest, to find out its relation to the rest (as it seems its not static as the euro, nismo and tomei ones are much smaller)

Don't get confused by the blank 10-20, the 0-10 is still smaller, the 10-20 is equidistant to the 20-30, etc... Here is a Tomei 0-280 speedo:

And I don't have a better pic of the Nismo 0-260 unfortunately although I did have one before...:

knate · 08-03-2006, 09:37 AM

Why care so much about the 0-10 when you never need to know if you're doing 7 or 8 miles per hour? If you are trying to do something like Tomei, just make it as close as you can, and then calibrate it to speeds that you will be paying attention to. What are you planning on printing out your new design on? What are you planning on using to calibrate?

a_ahmed · 08-03-2006, 12:11 PM

Using nissan consult you can know the actual speed, even better with GPS,

The 0-10 is important if it matters relative to the rest. Yes the Tomei one is really close but still. Such minor error (if I guess work) may be insignificant maybe not, I don't know that's the thing. If it does matter, then as the speed increases the little offset error would cause problems as the speed increases, wouldn't you think? But I don't know, I wanted to confirm this...

I want to do everything right, and I want to understand this little 0-10 mystery!

s13driver · 08-03-2006, 12:28 PM

i would think that once you put the car in gear and let it roll without using the gas accelerat pedal 10km/h is the mininum speed it will be rolling on. samething with the usdm gauge. when it starts to roll on its own it will be ~5mph
and 5mph ~= 8km/h

08-03-2006, 12:52 AM	#1
a_ahmed BANNED Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oakville, Ontario Posts: 749 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: a_ahmed Feedback Score: 0 reviews	creating a new cluster speedo background and calibrating Hey guys, So, I've got a spare broken speedo that I've got to play with. I disassembled it and wanted to figure out a number of things. I know where the pot for calibrating the speedo is located, I also know the resistor mod to make the thing even 399km/hr capable (useless but none the less...) Now I scanned in the speedo backdrop, prepped it so I can make my own but I have a curious dilemma. I may sound as a noob but I honestly don't know. On some car's speedos the distance between the ticks is not consistent between the initial 0-10 and the rest. As I observed the stock 0-180km speedo, the 10km incremenets are all consistent and the thick bold jumps are 20km increments, all that is equidistant except the initial 0-10 which is small. I've noticed on the euro 0-240, the nismo 0-260 and the tomei 0-280 that the 0-10 is tiny and almost inexistant. Now I could just guesswork and make the distnace between 0-10 tiny and then do the rest equidistantly (not an issue). However this inital 0-10 is a prob for me... I am sounding completely noob but I don't even know why the initial 0-10 would be smaller. On some cars the 0-10 is equidistant with the subsequent 10km incremenets... but not on some cars and well in our case, yes on our cars. I'll attach the scan of the JDM 0-180km speedo

08-03-2006, 12:28 PM	#6
s13driver Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: BrokenlanD Posts: 625 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i would think that once you put the car in gear and let it roll without using the gas accelerat pedal 10km/h is the mininum speed it will be rolling on. samething with the usdm gauge. when it starts to roll on its own it will be ~5mph and 5mph ~= 8km/h __________________ it is so hard to educate the uneducated.

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08-03-2006, 12:53 AM	#2
a_ahmed BANNED Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oakville, Ontario Posts: 749 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: a_ahmed Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Here's my scan and I cleaned it up a bit:

08-03-2006, 03:16 AM	#3
a_ahmed BANNED Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oakville, Ontario Posts: 749 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: a_ahmed Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Well I posted this very same question on another forum and I think someone misunderstood but none the less just to make sure so that people know what I'm talking about... here's what I also posted on the other forum: -------- Well my question might have not sounded clear and may as well be noobish silly... but I was speaking about the initial 0-10 and its significance in relation to the rest... Here is a Euro 0-240 cluster: Notice how the intial 0-10km is much smaller than my scan of the JDM 0-180 (or even the USDM 180km speedo). The tomei and nismo ones also had a smaller 0-10km space... Now I am not sure what the relation of this is to the rest... if that 0-10 was STATIC... and insignificant, then I could just print out the 10-20, 20-30, etc... until whatever value I want (say 220, 240, 260, 280, 300, 320). However the 0-10 DID change. Do you notice the difference. This is my dilemma first.. because if I make a RUBBISH backdrop, that no matte what u cant get to calibrate due to the initial 0-10.. its useless... if I'm making sense do you get what I mean? I want to know the significance of why the intial 0-10 is smaller than the rest, to find out its relation to the rest (as it seems its not static as the euro, nismo and tomei ones are much smaller) Don't get confused by the blank 10-20, the 0-10 is still smaller, the 10-20 is equidistant to the 20-30, etc... Here is a Tomei 0-280 speedo: And I don't have a better pic of the Nismo 0-260 unfortunately although I did have one before...:

08-03-2006, 09:37 AM	#4
knate Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Washington Posts: 140 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Why care so much about the 0-10 when you never need to know if you're doing 7 or 8 miles per hour? If you are trying to do something like Tomei, just make it as close as you can, and then calibrate it to speeds that you will be paying attention to. What are you planning on printing out your new design on? What are you planning on using to calibrate?

08-03-2006, 12:11 PM	#5
a_ahmed BANNED Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oakville, Ontario Posts: 749 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: a_ahmed Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Using nissan consult you can know the actual speed, even better with GPS, The 0-10 is important if it matters relative to the rest. Yes the Tomei one is really close but still. Such minor error (if I guess work) may be insignificant maybe not, I don't know that's the thing. If it does matter, then as the speed increases the little offset error would cause problems as the speed increases, wouldn't you think? But I don't know, I wanted to confirm this... I want to do everything right, and I want to understand this little 0-10 mystery!