so is my maf or my wiring bad?

[1slowS13]

mind you, that i am on dcv20 setting on my multimeter.

ive been trying to figure out my hesitation and cutting out problem, so i decided to go over my engine with a multimeter.

with a fully warmed up engine, the 4th pin on the maf harness reads .25 when the key is in on position, and reads .80 when the car is idling. ive read that it needs to be under .2 in on, and 1.0-1.4 on idle. what gives?

im not sure if it matters, but the 3rd pin read .05, which i believe is ground, 2nd pin is 12.60, which i believe is the power wire, and 1st pin is n/a.

i just checked the pin out from ecu, its the same. so i am guessing there is continuity and my wiring is good.

although when the harness is plugged into the sensor, with the vehicle running, the voltage fluctuates as high as 1.1 to as low as .40 while JUST idling. i have 3 different mafs, i tried quickly plugging them in with the vehicle running, they all fluctuate. wtf?

[hanz]

someone that knows, answer this, i want to know also.

[97KATURBOSILVIA]

did you try cleaning any of them or did you just throw on some dirty dusty mafs. A dirty maf can make your car stumble around, I've even seen it limit rev range in a 300z. Good luck and also clean the iacv

[Z U L8R]

muwhahaha i so own!

check a buddy's that doesn't have ur problem the same way u just checked urs and post the results.

Dave

[1slowS13]

g'damn.

you know i have a feeling my car kills mafs'

the first time i switched out my maf, the car worked fine for a matter of hours. after the second one, so on and so forth. i stopped buying mafs on my forth one and convinced myself that it is something other than the maf. grr.

ive gone through 4 mafs, 2 maf cleaners, 3 eletric parts cleaner, and 1 electric contacts cleaner. that is seperate from all the intake cleaner ive used to clean up my iacv through the hose.

also, i dont have any friends that have dual-cams, would a single cam give off the same voltage? would anyone with a stock ka24de please go over the voltages of the maf with a voltmeter? ill rep you to no end. i even checked the fsm if it listed the corresponding voltages, but no.

[Z U L8R]

the transistor in the ecu could be popped and burnout out the elements in your mafs. maybe pop the cover on the ecu and take a look that all is kosher.

also the ground on your maf should be coming from the ecu not from the chassis. the ecu gives ground to keep the element at the spec temp. if your maf ground is grounded to your chassis then it keeps the thing uber hot and thus fries em out. so double check that you have continuity from your maf plug to your ecu maf pins.

gl man

Dave =]

[1slowS13]

alright

the motor set came out of my coupe, which i bought for dirt cheap. the car ran great for a couple of months until i crashed it. i swapped everything into my hatch sell and the thing ran great for maybe a week.

ive replaced the ecu because my old one DID have a couple of transistors burnt and what not, AND the maf wiring was spliced so it would also ground into the chassis. I have removed the spliced ground a loooong time ago. i have checked my ecu and it looks good, nothing seems burnt from both sides. i'm really skeptical on how ALL 4 of my mafs are bad. should i run my own wires from the ecu straight into the maf plug even though it seems like i have continuity? i was even monitoring the voltages while driving with the probe inserted into the ecu pin out.

[punkrico]

did it read the same for the ecu pin as it did when you had it directly reading from the maf

[1slowS13]

yes, it was the same.