Turbonetics Choices?

[wa-fu]

Alright, I am sick of searching here and in FA. I am trying to decide on a turbo and need some answers (please help). First, do I need a standard shaft or a big shaft (for the turbine wheel I mean). Second, is "Tuff Turbo" option worth it? Third, what's the difference between N, O, P, and Q Trim? Finally, what's the difference between Dynamic and Carbon seal?
I have a 97 and will be turbocharging the KA. I have a Walbro 255 L/H high pressure fuel pump for S14, MSD 50 LB/HR injectors, JWT fuel rail, 93 Cobra MAF, will get JWT reprogramed ECU and maybe a S-AFC, will probably use a RH manifold with a ceramic ball bearing on-center TO4E 50 trim compressor and .69 A/R, I have a HKS SS BOV which will be recirculating, Tial 35mm wastegate, Greddy Profec B boost controller, Greddy Turbo Timer, etc, etc. Still need to decide on an intercooler.
My goal is at least 300rwhp and 300 ft/pd torque. Thanks for any info or advice.

[luke91]

Here's what you need for the fattest all-turbo power/torque curve at 300/300:

Garrett T3/T3 turbo internally wastegated.
.45 A/R turbine wheel w/housing from a SVO Mustang, Trans AM, or Thunderbird
Turbonetics Super 60 Compressor wheel and housing.

Manifold of your choice

Walbro 255 pump

550cc injectors

Z32 MAFS

Apexi SAFC

Turbo XS HP boost controller

Front Mount IC of your choice w/ piping

That's it. No sense on wasting your money on JWT fuel management, an external wastegate, ceramic Tuff Turbo, or Profec B. Unless you want to, of course.

ESPECIALLY - don't waste your money on a straight T04 turbo if you only want to make 300 whp. Your power/torque curve will be useless, and you will make power too late in the RPM range. It's all about "the area under the curve". A smaller turbo will provide more.

[Kreator]

Originally posted by luke91
That's it. No sense on wasting your money on JWT fuel management, an external wastegate, ceramic Tuff Turbo, or Profec B. Unless you want to, of course.

Sorry but that's bull****. There is no such thing as "wasting your money on JWT fuel management". You can do this **** wrong, or you can do it right or u can do it not so right, but that doesn't relate to the amount of boost you are running at all. Unless ofcourse you are doing this on a budget (but wa-fu never said he was). 300hp is not something to fool around with. On a ka that's about 12-14 psi <- where you are strooooongly recommended to do a rebuild. Do it right. Try sourcing an external wastegate, a good BOV, ECU reprogram (check out enjuku, maybe u'd wonna run with them instead of JWT).

Your ultimate turbo choice will be a 50 trim T3 with .6/.63 housings. T04 should be kicking in around there, but t3 would still be yer best bet.

[wa-fu]

Ok, I now realize that a straight TO4E is not right for what I want. But can a T3 make 300rwhp with reliability? It seems like it would really be heating the motor.

Still wondering what N, O, P, and Q Trim means. And what is carbon vs dynamic seal?

Also, I have already bought a Tial 35mm wastegate and a HKS SS BOV but I will check out Enjuka cause I didn't even know they had a ECU reprogram. And I'm not turning the boost past 10psi untill I build the motor.

Thanks

[luke91]

JWT feul management is a safe, reliable way to go. That doesn't mean it's the only "right way to go". It's just not needed for only 300whp. So that's why I said there's no sense on wasting your money on it.

Why do you need an external wastegate when an internal one will do just fine?

If you are careful with your fuel management, which you can be using the fuel management I suggest, you won't need a rebuild at 300 whp. Jeff240SX already proved that to me in a past post :-)

As far as heating the engine with a smaller turbo, that's a very good point. Just make sure you are getting enough (maybe a little more than enough) fuel and are using a sufficient intercooler. Why not use the money you saved from not buying an external wastegate and use it to buy a good radiator and oil cooler? That'll help. I've seen people make 300whp w/ T28/T3 turbos on SR's, and they didn't heat up. You will be fine. If you're still concerned, consider a T3/T4. That'll give you faster response than a straight T4.

My whole reasoning in using the T3/T3 is that it can be mounted "underhand", and look resonably stock. Also, it will give you a fatter powerband at 300whp. If you plan on making more power someday, or if you want to see a big turbo sitting right beside your valve cover :-) then go all out and buy a T3/T4 and some JWT, what the hell, right?

[Kreator]

Originally posted by luke91
JWT feul management is a safe, reliable way to go. That doesn't mean it's the only "right way to go".

But that doesnt' make buying it a waste of money. External wgs and proper fuel management won't give you tons of power increase, but if money isn't an issue, i dont see a single reasoning behind doing it the way it's supposed to be. Internal wgs spike, s-afc doesn't give you proper management at every rpm. If you don't have money, its another issue though.

T3 will handle 300 rwhp, but yeah t3/t4 will probably be a better choice, since you might want go higher later on.