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Old 05-19-2011, 11:24 AM   #1
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Battery grounded out and killed power - still no power now..

93 240sx coupe Red top SR20

I'm not getting any power to the front. The battery is still good, and tried hooking the car up to another battery just to make sure so I'm guessing a fuse is blow, but which one?
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:36 AM   #2
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get a test light and look
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:55 AM   #3
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Good luck to you sir.
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
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get a test light and look
I guess I just need to check every fuse then?
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:09 PM   #5
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check main fuses in the engine bay and then work your way back to the cabin. While doing that trace any main wires on the harness from battery and check for corrosion.
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:12 PM   #6
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check main fuses in the engine bay and then work your way back to the cabin. While doing that trace any main wires on the harness from battery and check for corrosion.
Will do, thanks.
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:23 PM   #7
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Check the fusible link it's like 75a
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:50 PM   #8
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I would bet its the 75amp fuseble link up front. But if you grounded your battery, it's probably fried as well. It might test ok, but it could be different under load.
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Check the fusible link it's like 75a
Quote:
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I would bet its the 75amp fuseble link up front. But if you grounded your battery, it's probably fried as well. It might test ok, but it could be different under load.
I'll check that, it's the alt fuse right
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:02 PM   #10
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ALT fuse, yes. Check the ENG CONT fuse as well.
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:49 AM   #11
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ALT fuse, yes. Check the ENG CONT fuse as well.
They both look good.

Pics a little blurry, but here they are

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Old 05-20-2011, 12:00 PM   #12
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I feel like I am trying to watch 3d without the glasses lol.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:04 PM   #13
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I feel like I am trying to watch 3d without the glasses lol.
Haha sorry about that. I was outside and couldn't get my camera on my phone to focus close enough to where you could see the fuse.

edit: I also realize there is a 10a ENG CONT fuse as well and that one was good too.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:08 PM   #14
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As previously stated get yourself a test light so that:

1. you dont have to pull the fuses to check them and
2. you can check every fuse in a matter of seconds.

On a side note sometimes fuses dont just blow, but they will also split and come back together to look as if they are still blown. so make sure you look really close in there.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:11 PM   #15
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As previously stated get yourself a test light so that:

1. you dont have to pull the fuses to check them and
2. you can check every fuse in a matter of seconds.

On a side note sometimes fuses dont just blow, but they will also split and come back together to look as if they are still blown. so make sure you look really close in there.
Yeah I'm just going to do that. I'll go pick one up.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:17 PM   #16
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It will save you tons of time now and down the road. And then when you really start to like finding electrical problems you will upgrade to a power probe. I have one in my toolbox and I love that thing.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:20 PM   #17
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It will save you tons of time now and down the road. And then when you really start to like finding electrical problems you will upgrade to a power probe. I have one in my toolbox and I love that thing.
Yeah it definitely sounds like a time saver. Does Advanced Auto or Autozone carry them?
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:44 PM   #18
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one time my battery got loose some how and I hit a bump and the battery jumped up and hit the hood not fun hahaha good luck I always use a volt meter for any kind of electrical work
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Old 05-20-2011, 02:32 PM   #19
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yea they will carry them. Pickup a cheap multimeter too.


I use a voltmeter too. but thats one reason why the power probe II is great because you can read voltage/acts as a test light/ and you can put power or ground to items to test them.
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Old 05-20-2011, 03:30 PM   #20
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So there are 2 15a fuses for 'BLOWER MOTOR' in the kick panel inside the car. Neither lit up when I put the test light to it while all others did.. so I guess they're blown then. Although they look fine.
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:47 AM   #21
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You need to get a digital multimeter and switch it to resistance and test every fuse. After that, turn on the ingnition and and start measuring voltage. Start at the battery and go from there. Measure to ground. Make sure you switch the multimeter to voltage. If you dont find anything. Start checking all your grounds, back to resistance on the meter and measure ground to ground.
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:07 AM   #22
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you dont have to have a multimeter to test every fuse. just make sure that it lights up on both sides....granted yes if there isnt power going to every fuse so in that since some may need to use a multimeter yes.

If you use the ohmeter dont supply power to anything.
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:18 PM   #23
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You need to get a digital multimeter and switch it to resistance and test every fuse. After that, turn on the ingnition and and start measuring voltage. Start at the battery and go from there. Measure to ground. Make sure you switch the multimeter to voltage. If you dont find anything. Start checking all your grounds, back to resistance on the meter and measure ground to ground.
I went and got a multimeter. What ohm/voltage settings do I want to use to test resistance and voltage?
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:33 PM   #24
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well you have 12v system and you dont have to go that high for resistance. I usually keep mine at 2k scale unless the system I am testing demands more. Just mess with the scales until you have the number the way you can read it.
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:41 PM   #25
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well you have 12v system and you dont have to go that high for resistance. I usually keep mine at 2k scale unless the system I am testing demands more. Just mess with the scales until you have the number the way you can read it.
Yeah that's what I did I figured out which ohm scale to use for these fuses. Anyway, I hooked up leads to some of the fuses and it reads 0.00, and the test light didn't light up on them, but when I swapped the fuses around test light still didn't work. So does that mean the relay is bad or what? I'm sort of confused.

Edit: Ok so this is a little strange. With the battery DISCONNECTED all of the fuses tested good with the test light.
With battery CONNECTED only a few of them lit up.
The ohm testing resistance with multimeter only tested with a positive number on a couple of fuses.

So I'm not exactly sure what this means

Last edited by Artigo; 05-24-2011 at 03:52 PM.. Reason: info
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:44 PM   #26
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Figured it out. Bad ground feel free to lock the thread
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