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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dayton, Oh
Age: 33
Posts: 445
Trader Rating: (7)
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innovative lc-1 problem
So here is the deal, I bought a innovative lc-1 a few months back and just recently installed it. It worked perfectly up until about 2 weeks ago. It now blinks 7.4(full rich). I've read about this on other forums and a lot of people say the sensor is toast, i just have a hard time believing the sensor went bad with under 1000 miles on it. I've reset and re-calibrated the sensor more than a few times and nothing. So i have 2 questions. 1) anybody have any experience with a problem like this and have any insight as to how i can fix this problem? 2) I am running the sensor as a narrowband sensor to my ecu in place of my oem sensor, so is this effecting the signal to my ecu, causing the car to run at a poor afr now? (i.e. running lean and causing detonation)
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#6 |
Leaky Injector
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Yeah I bet it's code 8 because it got fried from being so close to heat source.. Put back in stock 02 sensor in that place then your gonna have to buy new o2 sensor for lc1 and maybe the heatsink I just bought both for 100 shipped..then weld in a new bung lower down exhaust stream but weld the bung in the 10-2 position on the exhaust pipe so condensation doesn't build up and ur done
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#7 |
Leaky Injector
![]() Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philthadelphia
Age: 37
Posts: 130
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The instructions from innovative indicate that a copper heatsink should be constructed and used if the LC1's o2 sensor is going to be used in the front o2 spot. I've run mine in the front o2 of my GVR-4 with the heatsink for about a year now with no major issues.
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#8 |
Zilvia Addict
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Definitely a toasted sensor. Same thing happened to mine. Or you have an exhaust leak before the sensor which i highly doubt. Good news, you can pick up a new bosch sensor off a 2008 jetta at a local parts store, which is a replacement for the lc1. And you need to place the sensor a certain distance from the exhaust manifold, plus it gas to be angled between 10 and 2 oclock position on the exhaust - if i recall correctly.
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#9 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Yup, you fried it. You're not supposed to leave it full time in the OEM o2 bung hole. You're supposed to have another bung added that is roughly 36-48" down the exhaust stream.
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#10 |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dayton, Oh
Age: 33
Posts: 445
Trader Rating: (7)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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Thanks for the info guys, the only real reason I got the wideband was to check my rom tune to see how the tune was. I'll get a new sensor and move it downstream now. Would you all recommend I use heatsink if the sensor is moved back still?
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#11 |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dayton, Oh
Age: 33
Posts: 445
Trader Rating: (7)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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Also, my exhaust is tucked up above the frame rail since my car is low. I don't have much room to put that sensor if it needs to be at the 10-2 position. My downpipe pretty much sits on my floor pan. Anybody got ideas on this?
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#12 |
Zilvia Addict
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Mine is the same way i managed to make it fit but i cant say it was effortless. And mine is at about 10:30-11:00 angle. Might have to get creative.
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#13 |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Midwest
Age: 35
Posts: 1,401
Trader Rating: (91)
![]() Feedback Score: 91 reviews
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^hour hand or minute hand?
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#14 |
Leaky Injector
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I'd use one still, from what I've seen this happens to people a good bit, it's worth using one to save yourself from buying another o2 sensor.
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