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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Member
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NA bolt-on estimates ...
okay after days of thinking I've decided that I'm going to limit my spending on my project (AKA NO TURBO). With college loans kicking in in like a couple of months and my summer trip to Japan and Korea, I need to stop spending money.
I'm wondering what kind of figures I would be putting down with the following mods: Short Air Intake OBX SS headers SAFC Pullies (maybe) PDM cams Electric Fan 70mm JIC exhaust Centerforce Clutch ( I know it doesn't add HP ) Also is there anything I can do to squeeze out some more power. I Just want something that would be fun to drive around in. 200 hp is unrealistic N/A.
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#3 |
Zilvia Member
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correct de mundo...
yeah my question is a noob question too...
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#5 |
Post Whore!
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bring you up to a whooping 155hp!!!! hehe jk. But I wouldnt be surprised, probably just better throttle response. Since cars loose alot over age, wear and tear, and drivetrain.
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#7 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
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#8 |
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The S-AFC allows you to adjust the air flow meter signal before the ECU. The ECU then reads the adjusted signal and adjusts fuel accordingly. This allows you to modify the signal to obtain the proper ration of air to fuel. It will add power if tuned correctly, but on a NA 240sx it wil most likely only give maybe 3-5 HP, turbo cars however can see gains of 10-50+ depending on how bad the mixture was before. The biggest diference that I noticed on my car with it was that the engine ran smoother, not a whole ton of extra power.
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#10 |
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for the price of the Safc plus 100 bucks you can buy higher compression pistons which @ 10.5:1 compared to stock 8.5:1 should give you like 30 horses to the wheels, and you can bore it out while you're there. Better investment IMO that the SAFC cause you wont need it. People run 200 horse n/a ka's with stock injectors. all you would need is a fuel pump. And i'm guessing the Jic exhaust is way over 500 bucks.. To be more cost effecient buy used intake/exhaust. IMO these are overpriced when brand new.
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#11 |
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fuel pump is not necessary.
and proper fuel tuning on a KA with those mods will give more than 3-5 hp. more like ~10. I know a guy that got 12 whp when he added a JWT NA ECU with Cams intake exhaust, and underdrive crank pulley already installed.
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#12 |
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i was talking about the 200 horswepower guys. But you're probably right. I asked Bill Gude who builds those kits for Ka's and i think he said stock fuel system is ok.
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#13 |
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get everything you mentioned plus a test pipe, and a lsd. With those mods, it will be a simple, but yet fun n/a car.
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#14 |
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i dunno man... stock KA with lsd is a simple, yet fun n/a car...
with all that money, save up for suspension or a turbo kit, the HP per capita you will be getting is WEAK for any of the NA mods. why bother?
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#15 |
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^^^^ werd. the only think i have on my car for "perfomance" is a aem intake. i wend full suspension with a vlsd(sucks) but still fun for me.
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#16 |
Zilvia Member
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already have a VLSD and my suspension is pretty good:
HKS HyperMax-II Nismo Power Brace Touge Factory T/C rods F/R Strut Bar 300zx w/ Project Mu Pads Thinking about getting sway bars but I hardly have any sway with my current setup. Just need to get a little more power. Not askinf for too much...
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#17 |
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in my opinion those mods are a waste of money that wont give you results you are looking for.
Unless you gain 50 hp, dont even get out the checkbook. just my opinion on beginning to mod an engine. |
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#19 |
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I like the response you get with NA. Especially if you want to auto-x, or like to do touge. My plans for NA building (taken from my crazy NA Honda days)...
shorter intake on passenger side, HKS filter headers 3 inch exhaust test pipe pullies MSD ignition extrude hone intake manifold port matched and enlarged throttle body some KA24E pistons lightening up the car (A LOT) NGK plugs and wires cams... not sure of yet JWT ECU I estimate somewhere around 180 ish to the wheels. Right now, all I have is an exhaust, msd, and HKS filter on factory pipe, and the car is fun. You should see the look on the SR guys faces when they can't pull away from me on the touge, or when my drifting looks better.
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#20 |
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raise the compression, cam the crap out of it, and put two weber DCOE 44's on it (carbs, for those who dont know).
Thats the only way you'll make a noticeable amount of power with a KA. Believe me, I drive a stock KA and have driven two that had all the bolt ons you mentioned (plus or minus one, i dont remember the details). My car felt no slower than those two I drove. I did like the lighweight flywheel in one of those cars... that's a fun investment. |
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#21 |
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... about the previous post... i drive ka for now, but highly doubtful you keep up with them.
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1990 Nissan 240sx:s13 blacktop, s13.5 front |
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#24 |
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I'm sure your butt dynos are all very accurate. There are factory cars running 10.5 compression. 11.0 is nothing but pinging.
A side note, NA power is pretty dependant on upkeep with the car. If you don't keep it tuned, all the parts are not going to make the power they're supposed to. for instance, on the KAs, if your coolant temp sensor is not working well, it can cause you to lose 10hp at the wheels. I like NA for a couple reasons, maintenance ease, heat, longevity, durability, margin of error (tunining)
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#25 |
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Don't pay any mind to the turbo nazis. I would start with the exhaust cause you'll get gains in power, sound and, style. I would go with the Injen cold air set up. I drove around for 6 months with the short ram and added the CAE for the summer and noticed a deff. kick in the pants(low end). I have the OBX SS header in and it is great. It will make your car sound lower and louder. Everyone I know seems to like the lower tone but it rings a bit when it's cold in the cabin. Once it gets warmed up it's sweet. I have ordered the ASP pulley and will see how that goes.
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#26 |
Zilvia Member
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yeah I got a another question for you guys....
I was running the car decently hard last night, and I had 2 people in the car with me, and all of the sudden the CEL comes on, I pulled the code last night and it said that it was the detonation sensor....and athe crank angle sensor. I've never had a check engine light on the car and I've pushed it on many different occasions ... my question is .... how can I prevent detonation?
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"Street racers don't need girls." -Lonely Driver Learning about cars one FLAME at a time ... (thanks to TNORD) |
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