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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Member
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Clutch Problems
If you have a problem with your clutch give me an e-mail.
I have had quite a bit of experiance with SOHC and DOHC KA's and SR's as well. Just wanted to lend a helping hand. Max |
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#3 |
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: cape coral
Age: 44
Posts: 45
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![]() I have a sr20. I have a clutch problem. for some reason I build up pressure after driving for a while. I have bleed it tons of times and I put a new slave and master and took out the box in between the slave. any answers
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#4 |
Zilvia Member
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Okay every one uses diffrent words to describe problems.
Thats why we have "nomenclature" standard words for parts/problems. Describe the problem in more detail. Does the pedal get harder? Does the clutch/trans make noises? Okay just post when you get the chance. Max |
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#7 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: May 2003
Location: Shreveport, LA
Age: 37
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Quote:
Bleed lines, sounds like you have a bubble in the line that expands with heat. |
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#8 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Quote:
sounds like you still have air in your system. also did you make sure not to kink the hardline when you bent it around? do u have SS clutch line? |
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#10 |
Post Whore!
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Max
I have a '91 5-speed. I had my car on jack stands and started the car up. My car was in neutral and the rear tires started to spin. But when I pressed in the cluth it stopped spinning. Do you know what is wrong? |
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#13 | |
Zilvia Member
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Quote:
Did you bench bleed the master cyclinder? Also check the pivot ball, i broke that shEit once and it took me about 3 weeks to figure it out. Max |
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#14 |
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: cape coral
Age: 44
Posts: 45
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right now the stock one is in and it seemed to be good. we put a new one in and it was doing the same thing and thought we had a bad one so we put the stock one back in. I cant rember if I bench bleed it. And what is the pivot ball?
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#16 |
Post Whore!
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Not a cluth problem but I got a 300zx master brake cylinder. I am trying to bench bleed it but don't know what to buy to do it. I was thinking about getting some hard lines but didn't know what size to get. Or should I get some bleeder valves and hook it up to a clear tube back into the BMC?
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#17 |
Zilvia Member
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to bench bleed a master you put you fingers over the outlet/s that go to any hard lines.
the you usea screw driver or something and pump the cyclinder (you have to fill the bowl with fluid first) then the cyclinder will press the air past your fingers where you are holding it closed. when you get all the air outstop pumping (1~10 pumps usually does it) dont tilt, tip, or spill any fluid if you can try not to. It can be a real pain to bench bleed, but not bench bleeding is 100X worse. Max |
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#18 |
Zilvia Member
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I don't really have a problem, more of a concern.
I got a new clutch complete kit installed recently. I already know it takes like a week to break it in. After a week it fully hardened (it was soft and spongy when I first got it of course). I put around 400 miles (alot of them being freeway) on the clutch, and then did a canyon run. (it took like 2 weeks to put around 400 miles). So now it's at like 650 miles on the new clutch. It doesn't slip, it feels FULLY broken in now... it did especially after the canyon run (which i revved to like 6200RPM range on of course). I'm just worried if I fucked it up by not waiting longer. Somebody told me I should have put 1,000 miles before canyon running. Another guy told me not to worry and said it can take as little as a day to break in. I'm just worried about my clutch longevity. CONCERN #2: After a 10+ minute freeway drive in which I am in 5th gear without shifting or pushing the clutch in... I get on the off ramp and when I push the clutch in, it is HARD. I love it. then after some use on the street, it softens back up to the normal softness. Also, on hot/warmer days or colder days the clutch pedal feel changes. the engagement stays the same, but it gets harder or softer depending on the weather. I understand this is a hydraulic clutch, but is there some way to get a consistant feel? I will already try bleeding, bench bleeding later on, but I'm just wondering if this is normal or not for you 240 owners.
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White '90 S13 Fastback (SOLD in '07) |
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#19 |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
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Here is my problem:
sometime when I have the car in gear, and I push in the clutch the clutch will still be grabbing and pulling the car forward. other times i can hold the clutch in with the car in gear and nothing will happen. majority of the time i will come to a stop, clutch in and car in gear, it will be sitting fine then all of a sudden the clutch will start to grab and pull my car forward. another probelm I have which I think is caused by the clutch thing, is that if i come to a stop in neutral, sometimes I cant get it into gear without pumping the clutch and trying to go into any of the gears and then shoving it into 1st. same happens if i come to a stop with car in gear then put it in neutral. I have a spec stage 2 clutch with 26k on it |
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#20 |
Zilvia Member
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Hamsterball: try a new clutch line, that should hlp the pedal feel more consistant.
Also check the fluid to make sure it is clean. Bayarea240: sounds like the pivot ball maybe worn out, do you loose any clutch fluid? Max |
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#21 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Not sure if this is a clutch problem, but only lately ive been experiencing this:
The tachometer needle sometimes drops from whatever RPM (3500 for example) to below 750RPM when I step down on the clutch or cruise in neutral, notably when coming to a stop. Occasionally it would simply stall right as the car stopped (with the clutch down), and sometimes the engine would feel like its struggling to return to safe idling RPMs and sometimes it would jump and fluctuate. Everything seems fine when I'm driving and shifting through gears. 91' KA, stock engine, driveshaft rebuilt 7000 miles ago, due for an oil change in 500 miles. The problem has become more frequent in the past few days. Thanks! I think its very generous of you to offer advice and help so openly btw. |
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#23 |
Zilvia Member
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wing: although it could be a leak in your intake manifold, it could also be a bunch of other things as well.
some things you can check: IACV- you can also check this part out, by your intake manifold. it's used for your warm up idle mostly, but i've heard it can cause problems with idle stability. (not that hard to check this. Pinch the hose to the IACV, the idle speed should drop if it's working normally. Also, try to start the engine with the gas fully depressed. It shouldn't start up if the part is working normally) MAF- also associated with this type of problem. check the current. Injectors.. they may be clogged/dirty or have a faulty connection. Check the connection with an ohm gauge and see if all have consistent power. if they are clogged/dirty, it could affect your hesitation, idle fluctuation. but, there's a less chance of these as the culprit since you didn't mention any gas mileage problems.. you may also want to have your fuel pressure checked. these are just some other things to look for...
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White '90 S13 Fastback (SOLD in '07) |
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#25 |
Zilvia Member
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the pivot ball it just like a big bolt with a ball at one end, a new one is like 4 bucks at the dealer.
just use a deep socket on an impact and it will come right out. But you have to drop the trans to get to it. Max |
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#26 |
Zilvia Addict
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what is the part # for this pivot ball ? and when i try to look it up under my fsm i can't find where the pivot ball is located. cause i'm thinking i might have the same problem as bayarea240
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#28 |
Leaky Injector
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Since we're on the topic, I also have a question;
Ever since i bought my 89 the clutch has been extremely soft, but it doenst slip at all. The fluid was low so i bleed it and filled it back up, but still no change in the softness. Let me know what you guys think it could be. Thanks!
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#29 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
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#30 |
Leaky Injector
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Yeah, im thinking of doing the same thing. I just ordered the SS clutch line from the GB going on.
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Opportunites are never taken away..... there just given to someone else. |
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