SR drama, out of ideas!!!!!

[AntiVtec]

Alright guys, i had the car running perfect, then i installed the new intercooler and it idled rough and wouldnt rev. I managed to to fix those problems after hours of tinkering. Now i have a bigger problem, every time i rev the car while sitting in neutrel and let off the throttle it almost turns off. The revs drop to about 400 briefly and then it rises again to normal idle. When im driving and rev it, let off and apply brakes the car does almost exactly the same but it actually turns off. I thought it was the BOV since its open atmosphere, but after tightening it all the way it didnt help. It also seems to do it a little even if its not reved higher than 2K RPM, and the idle is lumpy and then smooths out in a pattern so i doubt the BOV is the problem. Ive been working at it for two days straight and i cant figure it out, im tired and exhausted, so if any one has had this problem and can point me in the right direction i would appreciate it alot. Thanks for all the help getting my car running but i need you guys one more time!

[smithers584]

did you go from side mount to front mount? did the location of your MAFS change? i know this sounds obvious, but did you check for boost leaks on the intercooler couplings? pinch off the blow by hose that runs to your pcv valve, if your engine speed rises then you have a leak, if everything is ok then it will idle rough when you pinch it off and then go back to normal after releasing.

[AntiVtec]

Originally Posted by smithers584

did you go from side mount to front mount? did the location of your MAFS change? i know this sounds obvious, but did you check for boost leaks on the intercooler couplings? pinch off the blow by hose that runs to your pcv valve, if your engine speed rises then you have a leak, if everything is ok then it will idle rough when you pinch it off and then go back to normal after releasing.

Yeah i went to front mount, no the maf local didnt change. No leaks detected after alot of searching. Ill try pinching the hose, which is the pcv hose? Thanks alot for the help ill keep you posted.

[smithers584]

the one that runs off your intake manifold to your PCV valve, if you are looking at your motor from the front it will be to your left on the valve cover all the way towards the firewall on the cover. it will look like a little 19mm nut with a hose coming off it. this is good for finding bigger leaks, if you have a small ass leak it may not pick up on it.

[gotta240]

you have a leak somewhere...

Think about it....IF THATS REALLY the only thing you changed/touched....then you MUST have a leak.

[infinitexsound]

vacuum leak, check ur hoses... and clamps

[AntiVtec]

Alright if you guys say so ill check all the hoses again and the pcv. If you guys happen to think of anything else let me know and thanks alot i really appreciate the help. Sorry for being such a pain but ive been trying to get this thing running for 4 months now and i just want to let'er rip already!

[g2ic02]

heres the deal....when your blow off valve is atmospheric it runs super rich because it is adding fuel for the air that is supposed to be there but has been blown off. That coupled with the fact that when you hit your brakes you are drawing power from the alternator which in turn makes your crank work harder. Those two events coupled together allow the rpms to drop dramatically if not die. If you are that worried about it recirculate your blow off valve. Tightening it all the way won't do anything for you.. you will have to run a tube from the b.o.v. to your intake after your MAF sensor.

[emopunk96]

Vacuum leak, make sure you check the couplings really close. When you rev your motor it will flex, flexing the couplings and open up rubber hoses ect.

Like they said, if it didnt happen before it has to be something you did or a fucked part you installed.
-nick

[AntiVtec]

Alright point taken, thanks im glad theres SR gurus like you guys willing to help out.

[mjjstang]

im in the same damn boat as you, i have sr and it idles like shit after startup and only idles fine after about half hour of driving but its still not an idle that i like, it could be a lot better. but yah i feel that it is not a leak but something else, maye it is tho, ill have to do some more searching, let me know how you fix it if u do befor i manage to. could it be the IACV in any way whatsoever, i dono. im going to check all my vacuum lines again and rerout the BOV.

[KrazyZenki]

Have you tried aybe it fell out checking your idle air screw? Maybe it fell out or you met have accidently moved itwhen you were installing the intercooler piping. The car dying when you brake sounds like what happens when the idle air screw isnt there. See the idle air screw sits in front of the butterfly on the throttle cable, it actually supports the butterfly and thus controls your idle. But if it wasnt there when you hit the brakes inertia would cause the butterfly to slam forward and kill the car. Idle air screw fell out of my Sr and I had the same problem with braking and the car dying.

[smithers584]

i personally have never had my BOV cause any type of rich condition, well not anymore than id like. it has never changed my cars performance and its atmospheric, but i am also using SAFC II and AVCR for tuning, dont know if that makes a difference.

[AntiVtec]

Well after i tightened the BOV all the way as far it could possibly go, it fixed the stalling problem almost completely. The idleing problem was do to fouled plugs, which i should have checked in the first place. I didnt because they where brand new and had less than 2 miles of use. This leads to my new problem. I bought new plugs and it ran and idled perfectly, so i took it for a quick spin and then it started sputtering after boosting briefly. Limped it home pulled the plugs and they where fouled completely again. Im not running an o2 sensor yet because i cant find one to fit my a/m downpipe so i know this is one reason its running rich, but i didnt think it would foul the plugs so quickly? Im thinking another cause may be because im using a walboro 255lph pump with the stock fpr, and theres too much fuel pressure forcing excessive fuel to be injected. What do you guys think, can the 02 sensor be the only cause or does the Walboro have somthing to do with it also? Thanks for all the feed back from before!

[g2ic02]

the o2 sensor is more than likely your problem there. It is never going into closed loop operation. One thing to be on the look out for....since your bov spring is all the way tight now, it is going to take way more pressure for it to open. Listen for a fluttering sound when in boost and letting off the gas. This is air rushing past the turbine and isn't good for it. What bov are you using?

[smithers584]

no matter how much you are pumping to your regulator, it should maintain a pretty consistent pressure, within limits, if its good. g2ic02, i have a hks ssq bov, so i hear that fluttering all the time when i just boost a little, does this mean my bov is too tight? sorry, not trying to jack the thread or anything. it sounds normal when i actually build over like 5 psi.

[jdm_s14_zenki]

Originally Posted by mjjstang

im in the same damn boat as you, i have sr and it idles like shit after startup and only idles fine after about half hour of driving but its still not an idle that i like, it could be a lot better. but yah i feel that it is not a leak but something else, maye it is tho, ill have to do some more searching, let me know how you fix it if u do befor i manage to. could it be the IACV in any way whatsoever, i dono. im going to check all my vacuum lines again and rerout the BOV.

clean you intake system with intake cleaner, clean the idle adjuster valve, and see if that improves anything? its worked for me a few times. oh and clean your mafs but be carefull cus its fragile.