Can I go lower or will I need RUCAs? S14 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

alkemyst · 11-04-2006, 10:39 AM

Currently I am sitting a bit high, I didn't want to slam the car too much until I knew I could get around (it's my daily driver). I am on KTS coilovers about 1cm of preload in the front, 0 in the rear. Kazama tie rod ends and upgraded inners. SPL Parts tension rods....the rear is pretty much stock save Greg Dupree subframe spacers.

It's currently 1.5" lower in the front and .5" lower in the rear. I just swapped from 235/45's to 235/40's so I have another 1/2" of wheel gap.

I want to go down another full inch in the front and rear...that will leave me about 1" of wheel gap.

My alignment:
Front:
Camber: -2.0 deg
Caster: about +7
Toe: 0.0mm
Rear:
Camber: -1.25 deg
Caster: not sure what it ended up at
Toe: 0.5mm in

I know I am pretty close to full adjustment in the rear.

Total drop will be 2.5" up front and 1.5" rear.

Å

naed240sx · 11-04-2006, 10:48 AM

Stock camber adjustment sucks.

Whether or not you will need rucas depends on how much camber you are ok with running.

alkemyst · 11-04-2006, 10:55 AM

I'd like to keep it close to my current alignment specs.

naed240sx · 11-04-2006, 08:23 PM

Just look at the eccentric bolts on the rear. If they are close to the maximum settings, then you can't go any lower. If they are somewhere in the middle, then you can.

GSXRJJordan · 11-04-2006, 09:02 PM

yup... the whole point of aftermarket RUCAs is to strengthen up the suspension a little, but moreso to give you more adjustment than the stock RUCA allows. Like naed240sx said, just look to see how much adjustment you have left. From experience I'd say yes, to keep decent camber, you'll need RUCAs.

alkemyst · 11-05-2006, 09:34 AM

There is a little bit more they can go...I don't know how much turning them = camber in and out though.

I will probably have to buy the RUCA's and toe rods. I here the traction rods aren't so important on the street ... it mostly just gets rid of another set of rubber bushings.

I am going to drop it today, then see how it rides at the lower ride height.

If I like it I will get them, if not I will raise it back to where it was.

alkemyst · 11-05-2006, 05:05 PM

Well I bit the bullet and lowered it today...I had to replace the rear axle hardware anyway as one of the previous owners left off the washers and castle nut on them...I have no idea why unless they swapped in a LSD and then took it out for resale. It was a factory non-VLSD car.

I measured 1" at the top of the bottom mounts and the spanner nuts...gave me 1.125" lower in the front and 0.875" in the rear.

I am down 2.625" front and 1" rear from stock. Rear has more neg. camber even with just a bit more lowering.

I am going to bring it by the shop and see if they think they can get it in my specs (about -1.5 negative in the rear) or if I will need to buy the RUCAs and toe links.

Looks a lot better though now.

McRussellPants · 11-05-2006, 05:13 PM

I think I saw an option once where they lowered their car .9435341" and then crashed it.

I'd be careful like that, your tires will prolly wear down sometime over the next 10,000 miles. at least keep it higher than .7344353" lower than stock.

TokyoNights · 11-05-2006, 05:20 PM

you dont need toe links

alkemyst · 11-05-2006, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McRussellPants

I think I saw an option once where they lowered their car .9435341" and then crashed it.

I'd be careful like that, your tires will prolly wear down sometime over the next 10,000 miles. at least keep it higher than .7344353" lower than stock.

Go Duck a Sick.

Just posting my specs. Sorry if that's too much for you.

Check out my site: driftkat.com I don't have the "KAT" yet...but I do my own mods and drive it.

Jefferson · 11-05-2006, 07:25 PM

Yeah I don't think you need toe links in the rear. My cars lowered (I guess like 3in over stock) and my alignment guy was still able to get it pretty damn close to zero. I have had it like that for over two years and no noticable tire wear (with -2.5 rear camber), so I think you should be OK.

alkemyst · 11-05-2006, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jefferson

Yeah I don't think you need toe links in the rear. My cars lowered (I guess like 3in over stock) and my alignment guy was still able to get it pretty damn close to zero. I have had it like that for over two years and no noticable tire wear (with -2.5 rear camber), so I think you should be OK.

On RUCA's though right? The toe links aren't that expensive when you are dropping coin on RUCA's for a S14 (S13's are so much cheaper)...

Kuah at SPL Parts told me to skip the traction arms, but I would probably need both the RUCA's and Toe links for my lowering.

Ian · 11-05-2006, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alkemyst

Go Duck a Sick.

Just posting my specs. Sorry if that's too much for you.

Check out my site: driftkat.com I don't have the "KAT" yet...but I do my own mods and drive it.

You do your own mods AND drive your car?

holy crap

McRussellPants · 11-05-2006, 08:36 PM

Hes got one hell of a list of 25% of the catbacks and coilovers for S-chassi too.

Jefferson · 11-05-2006, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alkemyst

On RUCA's though right? The toe links aren't that expensive when you are dropping coin on RUCA's for a S14 (S13's are so much cheaper)...

Kuah at SPL Parts told me to skip the traction arms, but I would probably need both the RUCA's and Toe links for my lowering.

Yeah I'm on RUCA's, but the point I am getting at is I was able to get the alignment pretty damn close to zero toe without the toe arms. The way I think of it is if I can get away with decent toe setting without having to spend money on toe links, I use that money for something else.
If you want to buy the toe links go for it. But with that conservative of a drop (1.5 R)you might be able to get away with stock rear links, If I make any sense

alkemyst · 11-05-2006, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jefferson

Yeah I don't think you need toe links in the rear. My cars lowered (I guess like 3in over stock) and my alignment guy was still able to get it pretty damn close to zero. I have had it like that for over two years and no noticable tire wear (with -2.5 rear camber), so I think you should be OK.

cool...I wasn't sure either.

RUCA's are still the biggest expense (unless I was also doing adj LCA's).

thanks

alkemyst · 11-05-2006, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McRussellPants

Hes got one hell of a list of 25% of the catbacks and coilovers for S-chassi too.

It's not my major pasttime...this was a list from about 2004 though. My past time is driving and doing stuff to me car and others (my dad has a 408ci 1996 Bronco I mess with along with some other people's cars that need work...fvck I bought the tools may as well use them).

No updates save one on the Nismo Type R G attacks someone emailed me and that the lower lips on S14 Zenkis weren't body color from the factory.

If anyone has the other 75% of cat backs and coilovers out there feel free to send me even a link with the specs and I will update my site.

chmercer · 11-05-2006, 10:44 PM

11:43:39 PM: 1cm of preload
11:43:44 PM: kazama tie rod ends.
11:43:52 PM: .83252352 cm lwer than stock
11:43:56 PM: Greg Dupree Subframe Spacers.
11:44:01 PM: GDSS
11:44:09 PM: DTGDSS.
11:44:14 PM: one letter off of DTSS
11:44:24 PM: GT-DGSS.

alkemyst · 11-06-2006, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chmercer

11:43:39 PM: 1cm of preload
snip
11:44:24 PM: GT-DGSS.

huh? WTF is that?

11-04-2006, 10:39 AM	#1
alkemyst Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Florida Age: 54 Posts: 868 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Can I go lower or will I need RUCAs? S14 Currently I am sitting a bit high, I didn't want to slam the car too much until I knew I could get around (it's my daily driver). I am on KTS coilovers about 1cm of preload in the front, 0 in the rear. Kazama tie rod ends and upgraded inners. SPL Parts tension rods....the rear is pretty much stock save Greg Dupree subframe spacers. It's currently 1.5" lower in the front and .5" lower in the rear. I just swapped from 235/45's to 235/40's so I have another 1/2" of wheel gap. I want to go down another full inch in the front and rear...that will leave me about 1" of wheel gap. My alignment: Front: Camber: -2.0 deg Caster: about +7 Toe: 0.0mm Rear: Camber: -1.25 deg Caster: not sure what it ended up at Toe: 0.5mm in I know I am pretty close to full adjustment in the rear. Total drop will be 2.5" up front and 1.5" rear. Å __________________ Now my Kensai, I curse you to be a Ronin and with the my remaining spirit I, beseech Chimata-No-Kami, to have you wander through time and distance lands, seeking a new master.

11-04-2006, 10:55 AM	#3
alkemyst Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Florida Age: 54 Posts: 868 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I'd like to keep it close to my current alignment specs. __________________ Now my Kensai, I curse you to be a Ronin and with the my remaining spirit I, beseech Chimata-No-Kami, to have you wander through time and distance lands, seeking a new master.

11-04-2006, 09:02 PM	#5
GSXRJJordan Post Whore! Join Date: May 2006 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 9,135 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: GSXRJJordan Feedback Score: 19 reviews	yup... the whole point of aftermarket RUCAs is to strengthen up the suspension a little, but moreso to give you more adjustment than the stock RUCA allows. Like naed240sx said, just look to see how much adjustment you have left. From experience I'd say yes, to keep decent camber, you'll need RUCAs. __________________ Jordan Innovations has a new web site! www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

11-05-2006, 09:34 AM	#6
alkemyst Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Florida Age: 54 Posts: 868 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	There is a little bit more they can go...I don't know how much turning them = camber in and out though. I will probably have to buy the RUCA's and toe rods. I here the traction rods aren't so important on the street ... it mostly just gets rid of another set of rubber bushings. I am going to drop it today, then see how it rides at the lower ride height. If I like it I will get them, if not I will raise it back to where it was. __________________ Now my Kensai, I curse you to be a Ronin and with the my remaining spirit I, beseech Chimata-No-Kami, to have you wander through time and distance lands, seeking a new master.

11-05-2006, 05:05 PM	#7
alkemyst Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Florida Age: 54 Posts: 868 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Well I bit the bullet and lowered it today...I had to replace the rear axle hardware anyway as one of the previous owners left off the washers and castle nut on them...I have no idea why unless they swapped in a LSD and then took it out for resale. It was a factory non-VLSD car. I measured 1" at the top of the bottom mounts and the spanner nuts...gave me 1.125" lower in the front and 0.875" in the rear. I am down 2.625" front and 1" rear from stock. Rear has more neg. camber even with just a bit more lowering. I am going to bring it by the shop and see if they think they can get it in my specs (about -1.5 negative in the rear) or if I will need to buy the RUCAs and toe links. Looks a lot better though now. __________________ Now my Kensai, I curse you to be a Ronin and with the my remaining spirit I, beseech Chimata-No-Kami, to have you wander through time and distance lands, seeking a new master.

11-04-2006, 10:48 AM	#2
naed240sx Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 206 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Stock camber adjustment sucks. Whether or not you will need rucas depends on how much camber you are ok with running.

11-04-2006, 08:23 PM	#4
naed240sx Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 206 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Just look at the eccentric bolts on the rear. If they are close to the maximum settings, then you can't go any lower. If they are somewhere in the middle, then you can.

11-05-2006, 05:13 PM	#8
McRussellPants Nissanaholic! Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Austin, Tx Posts: 2,168 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I think I saw an option once where they lowered their car .9435341" and then crashed it. I'd be careful like that, your tires will prolly wear down sometime over the next 10,000 miles. at least keep it higher than .7344353" lower than stock.

11-05-2006, 05:20 PM	#9
TokyoNights Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: garage Age: 42 Posts: 1,215 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: TokyoNights Feedback Score: 2 reviews	you dont need toe links

11-05-2006, 07:25 PM	#11
Jefferson Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 394 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Yeah I don't think you need toe links in the rear. My cars lowered (I guess like 3in over stock) and my alignment guy was still able to get it pretty damn close to zero. I have had it like that for over two years and no noticable tire wear (with -2.5 rear camber), so I think you should be OK.

11-05-2006, 08:36 PM	#14
McRussellPants Nissanaholic! Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Austin, Tx Posts: 2,168 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Hes got one hell of a list of 25% of the catbacks and coilovers for S-chassi too.

11-05-2006, 10:44 PM	#18
chmercer BANNED Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: texas! Age: 39 Posts: 3,288 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	11:43:39 PM: 1cm of preload 11:43:44 PM: kazama tie rod ends. 11:43:52 PM: .83252352 cm lwer than stock 11:43:56 PM: Greg Dupree Subframe Spacers. 11:44:01 PM: GDSS 11:44:09 PM: DTGDSS. 11:44:14 PM: one letter off of DTSS 11:44:24 PM: GT-DGSS.