Help ~ New clutch will not engage??

[jerryk]

My mechanic just finished installing my 90’ 24-SX Se clutch / tranny with 80/90w oil and reported back late last night that clutch will not engage. I just had the transmission rebuilt with new bearings and seals and have a new centerforce stage II clutch with new throw out bearing pilot bushing and a resurfaced fly wheel. The master and slave are only 8 years old. What should he do and look for? Are there two sets of hydraulics to bleed? If I need a new master and slave where can I get them a good price?

[chlatboy]

bleed from the slave near the tranny. If it doesnt hold pressure you will need to replace your slave. If replacing, just get the nismo upgraded slave. Can be found at your dealership or bought at courtesyparts.com.

[g6civcx]

If the clutch will not engage, you have several issues:

* pressure plate sticking
* incorrect installation
* something sticking in the hydro system (either slave, master, or pedal)

Here's what you should do:

1. Order a Nismo clutch pivot bolt, Nismo slave cylinder, Taka Motorsport (google their site) hardline that goes straight from the master to slave cylinder, and OEM (make sure it's OEM) master cylinder.

2. Remove the gearbox and check to make sure he aligned the clutch and pressure palte/etc. correctly. Install the clutch pivot bolt at the same time.

3. Remove all OEM hydro parts and hardlines, including clutch damper and loop, for DOHC models.

4. Install new master, braided line, and slave.

5. Remove the clutch pedal stopper bolt and back the master cylinder rod all the way out so you get maximum rod travel.

6. Bleed the slave. You can also pressurize the master and open the line to the master quickly to purge air higher up in the line. With your new setup, it should take about 30 seconds to bleed, and you don't need a power bleeder.

7. Adjust the clutch pedal to specs.

[xxslidewaysxx]

if your car was an original 5 speed, take out that box mechanism thing on the frame rail, carefull bend the hard line and connect it directly to the slave. you dont need it, and clutch will feel better.

[jerryk]

Originally Posted by xxslidewaysxx

if your car was an original 5 speed, take out that box mechanism thing on the frame rail, carefull bend the hard line and connect it directly to the slave. you dont need it, and clutch will feel better.

What do you mean by better, stiffer or smoother?

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by jerryk

What do you mean by better, stiffer or smoother?

He's talking about the clutch damper. It's a little box mounted on the US-passenger right side frame rail.

You should bypass that unit completely. It doesn't do anything except make it harder to bleed the clutch line. It's supposed to help clutch pedal vibration, but you really don't feel a difference at all unless you dump the clutch.

As far as the hardline goes, I would strongly suggest you get the braided line from Taka Motorsports, especially if your S13 has never had the hardline serviced before. 15+ years of crud will seize up your hardline fittings.

Mine was so rusted beyond belief that I just had to cut everything off. The Taka braided line saved my butt. Without the braided line, my car would still be down right now.

Plus it's much easier to install the braided line because they're more flexible than the hardline.