Help with KA-T setup. Turboing the car soon.

[KAs14slider]

Hi guys, I am about to do my turbo setup and I had a few questions:
Does it matter where I mount my BOV: cold or hot side? It's a blitz DD.
Is there anyone out there with a similar setup that could tell me some safe SAFC II settings so I can drive the car safely before getting it tuned? Basically I would want to know the settings that I would need to make it run rich enough so there is no danger of it leaning out on me. I have the sr injectors in there right now on a stock KA and I just did -27% accross the rpm range at both low and high throttle and the car runs fine.
Are ebay boost controllers ok or should I get brand name? I was thinking of maybe getting one but I'm not sure, I was hoping for around 250hp, is this achievable with this setup at stock boost?
And I also heard you can basically do a home made boost controller, any info on this?
Any help is greatly appreciated, especially any incite into SAFC II settings.

Thanks, Alex.

My setup:

-s14 t28 at stock boost
-Ebay Godspeed FMIC
-Taurus e-fan
-Megan 2.5" catback
-ebay manifold and downpipe
-Walbro 255 pump
-SAFC II
-SR 370cc's
-stock s14 MAF

[Irukandji]

kat.org


BOV location doesn't matter, but it's easier to recirculate if its on the hotside. You'll eventually want to get a tune, but if you're okay with a ghetto setup then yeah the car will run. If you want to have a ghetto tune, just borrow a friends wideband or just buy one and tune accordingly. Notice the word "ghetto".

Car should run fine.. congrats on getting it running

[GSXRJJordan]

Ugh, so many taboos in that post. First off, yes, go to kat.org and browse for your answers there - note the word 'browse' and not 'post'.

Okay, lets take these in order:
1) BOV doesn't matter, like nismor said, easier if you do hot side.
2) Yes, KAT can give you an idea of some settings, but basically it'll run just like you've got it.
3) Ebay manual boost controllers are ok, they work, but an EBC is much better. If you're going EBC, go brand name.
4) THERE IS NO STOCK BOOST FOR A KA. I hate it when people say "oh it's on stock boost". What you mean to say is, it's on wastegate, or it's on ~7lbs.
5) Don't make a home made boost controller.

[beetlejuice]

Check out ka-t.org for SAFC settings and all things KA turbo.

250whp is possible with the t28, but not at stock boost (may need to upgrade your MAF too).

BOV location is a matter of opinion. Most use the hotpipe.

You need to at least retard your base timing a couple of degrees. If you want to turn up the boost, I suggest getting an MSD BTM or ECU tune. Too much timing + boost = broken stuff.

For an affordable, proven boost controller, go here http://www.voodooboost.com/boost_con.../Voodoo_I_MBC/

[KAs14slider]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Ugh, so many taboos in that post. First off, yes, go to kat.org and browse for your answers there - note the word 'browse' and not 'post'.

Okay, lets take these in order:
1) BOV doesn't matter, like nismor said, easier if you do hot side.
2) Yes, KAT can give you an idea of some settings, but basically it'll run just like you've got it.
3) Ebay manual boost controllers are ok, they work, but an EBC is much better. If you're going EBC, go brand name.
4) THERE IS NO STOCK BOOST FOR A KA. I hate it when people say "oh it's on stock boost". What you mean to say is, it's on wastegate, or it's on ~7lbs.
5) Don't make a home made boost controller.

Ok, thanks for the info. And yes, I meant 7psi, sorry for the confusion. And yeah, I do go on KA-T, I just like to post in multiple forums.

[KAs14slider]

Any idea on how much to retard the timing? So to retard the timing I would just turn the distributor counter-clockwise?

[beetlejuice]

Originally Posted by KAs14slider

Any idea on how much to retard the timing? So to retard the timing I would just turn the distributor counter-clockwise?

Yes, counter-clockwise.


"http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=129132"

[Irukandji]

More retard = safer
more advance = more power


Just gotta find the right balance. If you run 10psi, it's normal to run around 14 -16 degrees retarded

[johngriff]

Plugs and GAP, need a KA person to chime in on the P/N, but NGK-R heatrange 7 or 8's. Gap... uh... no larger than .032!

[smokey861]

buy a chipped ecu. Ive seen too many ka-t mess up on 7psi because of goffey safc settings.

[KAs14slider]

Originally Posted by n1sm0r

More retard = safer
more advance = more power


Just gotta find the right balance. If you run 10psi, it's normal to run around 14 -16 degrees retarded

Do I need a timing light? Should I just set the car to normal timing and then move the distributor counter-clockwise?

[Irukandji]

Yes, get a timing light. Don't guestimate that shit. I'd start at 14 degrees, drive it and see if it knocks (on your safc2). Run premium. Done.

Johngriff is right, don't forget sparkplugs. Just go to an autoparts store and ask for NGK plugs that's one step colder. I'm pretty sure its the 7's.

[KAs14slider]

Originally Posted by n1sm0r

Yes, get a timing light. Don't guestimate that shit. I'd start at 14 degrees, drive it and see if it knocks (on your safc2). Run premium. Done.

Johngriff is right, don't forget sparkplugs. Just go to an autoparts store and ask for NGK plugs that's one step colder. I'm pretty sure its the 7's.

Ok, I'll have to hook up the knock wire to my safc II. And right now I am running NGK BKR7's in the car. What is a safe knock reading? Or should it not go over 0?

[KAs14slider]

Anyone know where you would connect the line that runs from the wastegate to?

[beetlejuice]

Originally Posted by KAs14slider

Anyone know where you would connect the line that runs from the wastegate to?

There are two schools of thought on this.

Some connect the wastegate line as close to the compressor outlet as possible, to get the most accurate "compressor" boost reading. Many turbos have a provision for this (threaded hole for a fitting on the compressor).

However, there are others who connect the wastegate line to the intake manifold after the throttle body. This way, you get the most accurate "intake manifold" boost reading. This is the actual amount of pressurized air that is ingested by your combustion chambers.

7psi at the turbo outlet doesn't always mean 7psi in the intake manifold.

It is normal to lose 1psi-2psi worth of pressure drop between the compressor outlet and the intake manifold, especially when using a front mount intercooler.

I would suggest the intake manifold, after the throttle body.

[umsports]

The spark plug you'll want to run is a BKR7E11 and that's an NGK plug. I get them from Advance Auto when I need a set. The gap will be fine at .32 for your boost setting. Are you internally or externally wastegated?

[eastcoastS14]

I always heard BOV closer to the throttle body for better response

[KAs14slider]

Originally Posted by umsports

The spark plug you'll want to run is a BKR7E11 and that's an NGK plug. I get them from Advance Auto when I need a set. The gap will be fine at .32 for your boost setting. Are you internally or externally wastegated?

It is internally gated stock wastegate.

[that180guy]

Originally Posted by n1sm0r

Yes, get a timing light. Don't guestimate that shit. I'd start at 14 degrees, drive it and see if it knocks (on your safc2). Run premium. Done.

Johngriff is right, don't forget sparkplugs. Just go to an autoparts store and ask for NGK plugs that's one step colder. I'm pretty sure its the 7's.

fail ben.
honestly, not that many local auto parts guys knows theyre chits.

[breakindrifts]

For a good starting point retard the timing .5 degress for every lb of boost.

[Irukandji]

Originally Posted by that180guy

fail ben.
honestly, not that many local auto parts guys knows theyre chits.

The Kragen in Concord is pretty knowledgable.. they've help me with a lot of chit. But yeah, I agree somewhat that most the people who work there don't know shit.

where the hell have you been alex

[steve shadows]

Run the largest possible plug gap you can without misfiring.

This will garner the best HP and toruqe as well as power band, throttle response and most importantly gas milage.

Strength of spark is important when it comes to this.

.030 is a good spark plug gap for 15-20 PSI depending on ocatne.

But ive run .030 into 22+ psi ranges. Its all in the tune and supporting mods.

anyways don't mean to confuse you, but there is no one size fits all when it comes to tuning and plugs/gap.

7 range is plenty btw, 8 is overkill.

[KAs14slider]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

Run the largest possible plug gap you can without misfiring.

This will garner the best HP and toruqe as well as power band, throttle response and most importantly gas milage.

Strength of spark is important when it comes to this.

.030 is a good spark plug gap for 15-20 PSI depending on ocatne.

But ive run .030 into 22+ psi ranges. Its all in the tune and supporting mods.

anyways don't mean to confuse you, but there is no one size fits all when it comes to tuning and plugs/gap.

7 range is plenty btw, 8 is overkill.

What will happen if the plugs are not gapped properly? I think mine are at .30 right now.

[KAs14slider]

Also, another small question, anyone know what's the best place to run lines for gauges throught the firewall on an s14? I want to install a boost guage and a oil pressure gauge. And any good wrietups on oil pressure gauge installation?

[eastcoastS14]

pretty simple...if you look in the engine bay youll see rubber grommets in the fire wall....theres some on the passanger side, my guages were run behind the dash and through the grommets, usually if you pull of your glove box and have a friend shine a light through the grommet you can find the hole pretty easy but you may have to cut away some of the material to make the hoses and wires fit through


also be sure to cover the area that will be in contact with the firewall with something so that theres no chance of the metal rubbing through

[KAs14slider]

Originally Posted by eastcoastS14

pretty simple...if you look in the engine bay youll see rubber grommets in the fire wall....theres some on the passanger side, my guages were run behind the dash and through the grommets, usually if you pull of your glove box and have a friend shine a light through the grommet you can find the hole pretty easy but you may have to cut away some of the material to make the hoses and wires fit through


also be sure to cover the area that will be in contact with the firewall with something so that theres no chance of the metal rubbing through

Ok, so there is no easy access through the firewall on the driver side? So you had to take your dash apart to do your gauges?

[beetlejuice]

Gauges...

1) Find a suitable location on your firewall.

2) Drill hole in your firewall.

2) Install rubber grommet in the hole you just drilled.

3) Run lines for gauges through the grommet you just installed in the hole you just drilled.

You do not have to take your dash apart.

For the oil pressure gauge, you can use a oil filter sandwich adapter, which will have provisions to mount your oil pressure sender.

or

You can tee off your stock oil pressure sender.

[eastcoastS14]

no you dont have to take your dash apart...i just pulled my glove box door off for easier access....You sholdnt have to drill holes either....I ran my battery relocation wires and gauges through exisiting holes in the firewall...just look in the engine bay, youll see them