s13 rear subframe mount bolt broke! need help! - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

s13coupedrfter · 07-02-2006, 07:07 PM

I was installing rear subframe spacers and the passenger-side front subframe mount bolt snapped. The 17mm nut was frozen so I got my breaker bar and
POP!!! There is no access on the top of the bolt so I was wondering, how the
hell am I going to get a new bolt in there????

Any info would be great

whitey240 · 07-02-2006, 08:55 PM

Have you tried using an ez out?

s13coupedrfter · 07-02-2006, 09:45 PM

If you were to take the rear subframe completely out, it would be the 4 bolts hanging down out of the unibody that the subframe slides onto.

DJPimpFlex · 07-02-2006, 10:14 PM

^yea thats what he broke. I'm not sure about this at all, but you should be able to cut into the frame and replace the bolt. Maybe, maybe not. I'm not 100%.

projectRDM · 07-02-2006, 11:48 PM

Either cut out a box section of the frame and weld a new one in, or cut through from above, drill it out, and drop a new bolt through from the top. Either option is a shitload of work, good luck.

s13coupedrfter · 07-03-2006, 09:29 AM

I think I'm going to try option 2, cut a hole to get access the the top of the bolt drill it out and drop a new one in. I'm trying to save myself some work by not having to take the subframe out. I'm going to the nissan dealer today and see how much the bolt/nut is and ask if they have run into this before. I'll post when I find out. Thanx guys for the suggestions.

projectRDM · 07-03-2006, 02:25 PM

Um, no. The bolt is not available separately. From the dealer you'd have to buy the portion of frame rail it's welded in. You'll have to cut one out of a salvage chassis.

sciamop · 07-04-2006, 08:58 PM

Just as an FYI, this is a common problem on the E36 BMW. Except instead of breaking the stud, the sheet metal rips out of the floor! The solution for that car involves welding the broken stud back in with a factory reinforcement.

If you are on a budget, you should give option 2 a shot:

-- Just get an 8.8 bolt in the same length (and pitch if possible) as the broken stud, a nut (if the pitch doesn't match), a big (and strong ) washer, a 3/8"+ drill bit and a hole saw.
-- Grind off the remains of the old bolt and drill out the hole. This may take some time; you should probably buy a kick-ass drill bit for this.
-- Use the hole saw to drill an access point through the floor of the trunk. IIRC, the gas tank is fully aft of the rear x-member. You should confirm this before you go crazy with the hole saw.

If it doesn't work, remember that you have 3 other studs holding the rear x-member in the car!

s13coupedrfter · 07-05-2006, 03:56 PM

I'm still awaiting a call from nissan reguarding the part#. I'll try to take some pics of the fix so as soon as hear from nissan I'm going to start the repair.

aznpoopy · 07-05-2006, 05:50 PM

which bolt is it exactly?

instead of getting another stud you could do this:

access from the top. drill through from the top. drill out the old stud. go to the hardware store and pick up strong extra long bolt with the same thread size. go back to the hole. bore it out and helicoil it. screw in the bolt from the top. weld the head of the bolt to the chassis. paint over.

theronin · 07-05-2006, 05:55 PM

man, you know its bad when Russ considers something a shitload of work. good luck man keep us posted on how its going.

spinktodo · 06-03-2007, 04:48 PM

If anyone knows how this repair went or if that stud is available from Nissan, please let me know ASAP. I broke the very same bolt tonight and I'm searching for solutions... I'm pretty pissed off but I guess it could be worse. Luckly I have a spare beater Buick for times like this, but it still sucks ass... My shells so clean and I haven't had any problems with thing seizing thus far, so I can't believe this happened...

Thanks,

Jordan

07-02-2006, 07:07 PM	#1
s13coupedrfter Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Socal Posts: 839 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	s13 rear subframe mount bolt broke! need help! I was installing rear subframe spacers and the passenger-side front subframe mount bolt snapped. The 17mm nut was frozen so I got my breaker bar and POP!!! There is no access on the top of the bolt so I was wondering, how the hell am I going to get a new bolt in there???? Any info would be great

07-02-2006, 08:55 PM	#2
whitey240 Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 200 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Have you tried using an ez out? __________________ 1993 Nissan 240sx - SR20VET VVL, GT30R \|\| 11.3@122

07-02-2006, 10:14 PM	#4
DJPimpFlex Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Age: 39 Posts: 6,158 Trader Rating: (115) Rides Gallery: DJPimpFlex Feedback Score: 115 reviews	^yea thats what he broke. I'm not sure about this at all, but you should be able to cut into the frame and replace the bolt. Maybe, maybe not. I'm not 100%. __________________

07-04-2006, 08:58 PM	#8
sciamop Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: NY Posts: 217 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Just as an FYI, this is a common problem on the E36 BMW. Except instead of breaking the stud, the sheet metal rips out of the floor! The solution for that car involves welding the broken stud back in with a factory reinforcement. If you are on a budget, you should give option 2 a shot: -- Just get an 8.8 bolt in the same length (and pitch if possible) as the broken stud, a nut (if the pitch doesn't match), a big (and strong ) washer, a 3/8"+ drill bit and a hole saw. -- Grind off the remains of the old bolt and drill out the hole. This may take some time; you should probably buy a kick-ass drill bit for this. -- Use the hole saw to drill an access point through the floor of the trunk. IIRC, the gas tank is fully aft of the rear x-member. You should confirm this before you go crazy with the hole saw. If it doesn't work, remember that you have 3 other studs holding the rear x-member in the car! __________________ Todd 91 SE-R 93 Coupe http://www.whistlehog.com/blog

07-02-2006, 09:45 PM	#3
s13coupedrfter Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Socal Posts: 839 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	If you were to take the rear subframe completely out, it would be the 4 bolts hanging down out of the unibody that the subframe slides onto.

07-02-2006, 11:48 PM	#5
projectRDM Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atlanta Age: 51 Posts: 13,812 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	Either cut out a box section of the frame and weld a new one in, or cut through from above, drill it out, and drop a new bolt through from the top. Either option is a shitload of work, good luck.

07-03-2006, 09:29 AM	#6
s13coupedrfter Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Socal Posts: 839 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	I think I'm going to try option 2, cut a hole to get access the the top of the bolt drill it out and drop a new one in. I'm trying to save myself some work by not having to take the subframe out. I'm going to the nissan dealer today and see how much the bolt/nut is and ask if they have run into this before. I'll post when I find out. Thanx guys for the suggestions.

07-03-2006, 02:25 PM	#7
projectRDM Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atlanta Age: 51 Posts: 13,812 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	Um, no. The bolt is not available separately. From the dealer you'd have to buy the portion of frame rail it's welded in. You'll have to cut one out of a salvage chassis.

07-05-2006, 03:56 PM	#9
s13coupedrfter Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Socal Posts: 839 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	I'm still awaiting a call from nissan reguarding the part#. I'll try to take some pics of the fix so as soon as hear from nissan I'm going to start the repair.

07-05-2006, 05:50 PM	#10
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 44 Posts: 5,013 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	which bolt is it exactly? instead of getting another stud you could do this: access from the top. drill through from the top. drill out the old stud. go to the hardware store and pick up strong extra long bolt with the same thread size. go back to the hole. bore it out and helicoil it. screw in the bolt from the top. weld the head of the bolt to the chassis. paint over.

06-03-2007, 04:48 PM	#12
spinktodo Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 26 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	If anyone knows how this repair went or if that stud is available from Nissan, please let me know ASAP. I broke the very same bolt tonight and I'm searching for solutions... I'm pretty pissed off but I guess it could be worse. Luckly I have a spare beater Buick for times like this, but it still sucks ass... My shells so clean and I haven't had any problems with thing seizing thus far, so I can't believe this happened... Thanks, Jordan