Weird camber problem

[gunbbang82]

I have a stock 97 s14 and just put tein s-tech + tokico combo on it. no other suspensoin mods. I noticed visible camber on my rear wheels so i took it for an alignment. It turns out my driver side has -2.9 camber on both front and back while my passenger side has -1.9 on both front and back. Is this normal? I thought with the same level of drop, the camber change would be the same as well. Is it my weight making the drop worse on the driver side? Could the tech have mis calibrated/setup the alignment machine? I'm just confused. Please shed some light into this matter.

also, the mech said that they could not change the camber setting at all. I thought the stock suspension had about a degree of adjustability? Was he blowing smoke up my ass to make me buy the RUCAs?

thanks all

[Luvs2slide]

Originally Posted by gunbbang82

I have a stock 97 s14 and just put tein s-tech + tokico combo on it. no other suspensoin mods. I noticed visible camber on my rear wheels so i took it for an alignment. It turns out my driver side has -2.9 camber on both front and back while my passenger side has -1.9 on both front and back. Is this normal? I thought with the same level of drop, the camber change would be the same as well. Is it my weight making the drop worse on the driver side? Could the tech have mis calibrated/setup the alignment machine? I'm just confused. Please shed some light into this matter.

also, the mech said that they could not change the camber setting at all. I thought the stock suspension had about a degree of adjustability? Was he blowing smoke up my ass to make me buy the RUCAs?

thanks all

Unless you are super fat, no offense, I guess it could have some issues with the camber but I really doubt it. The shop SHOULD be able to adjust your camber, as well as toe. But I don't think you should really have any toe issues.

[LigouriRd]

The fact that your camber is different from side to side indicates that the either the chassis or the struts are tweaked. I wouldn't worry about it. With my camber plates 2 degrees of real negative camber put one plate at zero and the other at negative 3.

There is no stock adjustment for the front camber except for whatever slop there is between the strut pivot plates and the chassis. However, if you can get the alignment shop to adjust to close to zero toe you should be fine. -3 degrees of camber up front is brilliant for autocross.

In the rear there is an eccentric bolt on the upper control arm. You loosen the nut, and rotate the bolt to make the upper control arm longer to correct you camber. Most alignment shops don't know that. Again aim for zero toe and your tyres will be fine (couldn't hurt to rotate every 6k mi if you can).