Odd SR Behavior - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Drftn93SR · 09-13-2007, 06:37 PM

I have a 93 240 with a s13 redtop swap done, sent it to JGY Customs, they got it running right, I went picked it up, I drove perfectly fine all the way back home (bout 2 hr drive) i got as far as pulling on to my street and some really odd stuff started happening, first thing i noticed was the fact it I wasnt boosting right, i would have about 18-21lbs vacuum, then i could only give about 1/8 throttle without it bucking on me, i can get the turbo to spool at 1/8 throttle but once it really starts getting into boost its like it wants to hesitate, just not go... (running 7lbs of boost) it makes it to about 5lbs before doing this, its progressing worse, now i cant really even hit boost, any thoughts on this?

secondly, i can start the car and its perfectly fine, can sit and idle perfectly, but its getting a weak battery signal, i moved the battery to the trunk due to my front mount. If i give it gas then it will cause a small buzzing sound down near the fuse box on the driver side floor board, i have checked to see if i have a bad ground, or if a connection has come loose and i havent seen a thing... Any suggestions?

"Note" I am reading off of a Greddy Informeter, shows everything is in order excpet its only getting about 9V from the battery and my idle is a little high at 1200 rpm.

GabeS14 · 09-13-2007, 06:49 PM

I would get the same effect when my first MAF was messed up the sensor didnt work, ran fine real slow but when gave more gas it woudl choke and spurt, and lose power,
check it, not sure abpout the buzzing from the fuze box though, check all the fuses seams the simple thing to do,

johngriff · 09-13-2007, 06:55 PM

Bad ground maybe between the battery and the Chassis. Did you sand it down to sheet metal.

Pick up a voltmeter. Test the chassis for ground continuity between the grounding terminal of the battery, random body panels, and the motor ground wire, and chassis. Intake mani and chassis, and finally make a LONG lead and test for continuity between the grounding strap/intake mani and the ground of the battery.

You symptoms sound like the plugs are not getting adequate voltage, causing spark break up.

Sileighty_85 · 09-14-2007, 06:53 AM

where did you ground the battery in the trunk? I grounded mine to the rear shock. But im Also running an HKS Circle Earth Kit under the hood too.

Drftn93SR · 09-15-2007, 02:19 PM

I havent stopped looking for loose wires and boost leaks, found that a rubber hose had ripped open at the nipple of my actuator. Fixed it though, but it didnt really seem to fix either problem. I did sand all my grounds, and it is grounded in the trunk. Also, its not the fuse box itsself that is buzzing, its something farther back in the cluster of boxes near it, i can squeeze my hand back around the boxes and feel it vibrating. I think it is just the signal that i have a low battery, cus whenever i start the car i dont have it, but once i drive it or turn the lights on or stuff liek that, then it starts buzzing along with my low battery light and e-brake light in the cluster comes on... I will look into the bad maf, and i will keep searching for a bad ground... If anyone has any other suggestions or just some feedback, cus you never know what someone might say that could lead to it being fixed. Thnx for all the help so far....

HellonFire · 09-15-2007, 02:26 PM

I would say its your alt. Try and start your car then unplug the battery and see if it still runs. If not, check the grounds to your alt, and also the charging signal wires.

I will bet that if you stick another fully charged battery in there, it will run fine until it starts to lose power as well. Your battery isn't getting recharged, which is causing you not to get full spark.

Tyler

Drftn93SR · 09-15-2007, 03:17 PM

That actually makes a lot of since, cus we took my alt and starter off during the swap, to make sure they were both good, it ended up that my starter was bad so we had it rebuilt and my alt was fine but i will check to make sure i put everything back on right.... thnx for the suggestion... keep em coming...

Drftn93SR · 09-16-2007, 04:37 PM

K so I was following your comments, I went to Advance Auto Parts to see if they could test my Altenator, i live realitivley close, but i took my 94 Mustang's battery (which is brand new) along with me just in case, i drove down there on my old battery and found out that they can only test OBD2 and above.... So i was pissed, and i didnt feel like the car dieing on me so i slapped my mustang's battery in just to make sure i would make it home. And what do you know, the low battery buzzer didnt come on anytime during the trip, and i was able to boost. I was abel to give it more than 1/8 throttle, so i am guessing that my alternator is bad...
I just go done test driving it with the mustang's battery.... I can get up to 4K rpm with full throttle and no problem, then the bucking starts again..... its really odd.... It happens in any gear. Any thoughts on this?
*In the process of taking off alt, to test and maybe rebuild it*

HellonFire · 09-17-2007, 08:38 AM

Just replace the alt. Your problems should go away.

Tyler

GabeS14 · 09-17-2007, 10:53 PM

If it was the ALt the car would just die out after a few mintes of driving, keeping the rev up would keep it running for a bit btu it would shut off soon anyways..
so I dont think its the Alt. I had a bad alternator before and it runs like normal fro a few minutes when bat drains then the car would shut down.

i seams like the MAF or Fuel then especially because it only happen when at certain rpms..

HellonFire · 09-18-2007, 12:53 AM

I have driven for two days on NO alt and a Optima Yellowtop....

Tyler

srgabe · 09-18-2007, 03:32 PM

dude i have the same battery issue...ill start the car give gass..then this loud buzzing noise from the lower fuse box would come on...so far i replaced my alternator and the lower wiring harness along with a new battery..and so far my problem went away...so that buzzing must mean that there is a bad connection somewhere a few people told me because of a faulty ground..check your grounds to your alt. and by the fuse box to the left side of the engine bay try and even relocated the ground to a different spot

statik · 09-18-2007, 03:43 PM

The 9v you were seeing is at the ECU. If the ECU/maf/ign/pump weren't getting proper voltage it would explain the hesitation issues. Either you have grounding issues or your alternator is not working and your battery is dropping very low in voltage. Check the voltage at the battery when the car is running, should be over 12v.

Drftn93SR · 09-18-2007, 06:15 PM

K so i think it may be what Tyler had said about not getting enough volts to the car, causing spark knock.... Cus when I had the car first doing this it would do it about 3500 rpm then it progressed worse(battery loosing more power) then i had the new battery in it and it went back to full throttle til 4Krpm, but it wasnt that beefy of a battery.... So i just got done taking off my alt going to see if it needs rebuilt, if so i will put it back on the car, search for a bad ground, i think i may try to relocate my battery up to the front to see if i get full power from it, if so i know i have a bad ground with the battery relocation kit... So just time to wait and see what they say at the shop.... Keep you guys posted, thnx for the help so far, but its not over til im screamin down the track...

09-13-2007, 06:37 PM	#1
Drftn93SR Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Roanoke, VA Age: 37 Posts: 33 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Odd SR Behavior I have a 93 240 with a s13 redtop swap done, sent it to JGY Customs, they got it running right, I went picked it up, I drove perfectly fine all the way back home (bout 2 hr drive) i got as far as pulling on to my street and some really odd stuff started happening, first thing i noticed was the fact it I wasnt boosting right, i would have about 18-21lbs vacuum, then i could only give about 1/8 throttle without it bucking on me, i can get the turbo to spool at 1/8 throttle but once it really starts getting into boost its like it wants to hesitate, just not go... (running 7lbs of boost) it makes it to about 5lbs before doing this, its progressing worse, now i cant really even hit boost, any thoughts on this? secondly, i can start the car and its perfectly fine, can sit and idle perfectly, but its getting a weak battery signal, i moved the battery to the trunk due to my front mount. If i give it gas then it will cause a small buzzing sound down near the fuse box on the driver side floor board, i have checked to see if i have a bad ground, or if a connection has come loose and i havent seen a thing... Any suggestions? "Note" I am reading off of a Greddy Informeter, shows everything is in order excpet its only getting about 9V from the battery and my idle is a little high at 1200 rpm.

09-13-2007, 06:49 PM	#2
GabeS14 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Sin City Las Vegas Posts: 4,521 Trader Rating: (27) Rides Gallery: GabeS14 Feedback Score: 27 reviews	I would get the same effect when my first MAF was messed up the sensor didnt work, ran fine real slow but when gave more gas it woudl choke and spurt, and lose power, check it, not sure abpout the buzzing from the fuze box though, check all the fuses seams the simple thing to do, __________________ E92 M3 19" wheels for sale///JWT Cams and Springs +30whp for sale... cheap.

09-13-2007, 06:55 PM	#3
johngriff Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,103 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Bad ground maybe between the battery and the Chassis. Did you sand it down to sheet metal. Pick up a voltmeter. Test the chassis for ground continuity between the grounding terminal of the battery, random body panels, and the motor ground wire, and chassis. Intake mani and chassis, and finally make a LONG lead and test for continuity between the grounding strap/intake mani and the ground of the battery. You symptoms sound like the plugs are not getting adequate voltage, causing spark break up. __________________ [email protected]

09-14-2007, 06:53 AM	#4
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	where did you ground the battery in the trunk? I grounded mine to the rear shock. But im Also running an HKS Circle Earth Kit under the hood too. __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

09-16-2007, 04:37 PM	#8
Drftn93SR Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Roanoke, VA Age: 37 Posts: 33 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	K so I was following your comments, I went to Advance Auto Parts to see if they could test my Altenator, i live realitivley close, but i took my 94 Mustang's battery (which is brand new) along with me just in case, i drove down there on my old battery and found out that they can only test OBD2 and above.... So i was pissed, and i didnt feel like the car dieing on me so i slapped my mustang's battery in just to make sure i would make it home. And what do you know, the low battery buzzer didnt come on anytime during the trip, and i was able to boost. I was abel to give it more than 1/8 throttle, so i am guessing that my alternator is bad... I just go done test driving it with the mustang's battery.... I can get up to 4K rpm with full throttle and no problem, then the bucking starts again..... its really odd.... It happens in any gear. Any thoughts on this? In the process of taking off alt, to test and maybe rebuild it Last edited by Drftn93SR; 09-16-2007 at 05:16 PM..

09-15-2007, 02:19 PM	#5
Drftn93SR Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Roanoke, VA Age: 37 Posts: 33 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I havent stopped looking for loose wires and boost leaks, found that a rubber hose had ripped open at the nipple of my actuator. Fixed it though, but it didnt really seem to fix either problem. I did sand all my grounds, and it is grounded in the trunk. Also, its not the fuse box itsself that is buzzing, its something farther back in the cluster of boxes near it, i can squeeze my hand back around the boxes and feel it vibrating. I think it is just the signal that i have a low battery, cus whenever i start the car i dont have it, but once i drive it or turn the lights on or stuff liek that, then it starts buzzing along with my low battery light and e-brake light in the cluster comes on... I will look into the bad maf, and i will keep searching for a bad ground... If anyone has any other suggestions or just some feedback, cus you never know what someone might say that could lead to it being fixed. Thnx for all the help so far....

09-15-2007, 02:26 PM	#6
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 39 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I would say its your alt. Try and start your car then unplug the battery and see if it still runs. If not, check the grounds to your alt, and also the charging signal wires. I will bet that if you stick another fully charged battery in there, it will run fine until it starts to lose power as well. Your battery isn't getting recharged, which is causing you not to get full spark. Tyler

09-15-2007, 03:17 PM	#7
Drftn93SR Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Roanoke, VA Age: 37 Posts: 33 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	That actually makes a lot of since, cus we took my alt and starter off during the swap, to make sure they were both good, it ended up that my starter was bad so we had it rebuilt and my alt was fine but i will check to make sure i put everything back on right.... thnx for the suggestion... keep em coming...

09-17-2007, 08:38 AM	#9
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 39 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Just replace the alt. Your problems should go away. Tyler

09-17-2007, 10:53 PM	#10
GabeS14 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Sin City Las Vegas Posts: 4,521 Trader Rating: (27) Rides Gallery: GabeS14 Feedback Score: 27 reviews	If it was the ALt the car would just die out after a few mintes of driving, keeping the rev up would keep it running for a bit btu it would shut off soon anyways.. so I dont think its the Alt. I had a bad alternator before and it runs like normal fro a few minutes when bat drains then the car would shut down. i seams like the MAF or Fuel then especially because it only happen when at certain rpms.. __________________ E92 M3 19" wheels for sale///JWT Cams and Springs +30whp for sale... cheap.

09-18-2007, 12:53 AM	#11
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 39 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I have driven for two days on NO alt and a Optima Yellowtop.... Tyler

09-18-2007, 03:32 PM	#12
srgabe Leaky Injector Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: honolulu Posts: 50 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	dude i have the same battery issue...ill start the car give gass..then this loud buzzing noise from the lower fuse box would come on...so far i replaced my alternator and the lower wiring harness along with a new battery..and so far my problem went away...so that buzzing must mean that there is a bad connection somewhere a few people told me because of a faulty ground..check your grounds to your alt. and by the fuse box to the left side of the engine bay try and even relocated the ground to a different spot

09-18-2007, 03:43 PM	#13
statik Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Long Island, NY Age: 40 Posts: 1,358 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: statik Feedback Score: 0 reviews	The 9v you were seeing is at the ECU. If the ECU/maf/ign/pump weren't getting proper voltage it would explain the hesitation issues. Either you have grounding issues or your alternator is not working and your battery is dropping very low in voltage. Check the voltage at the battery when the car is running, should be over 12v. __________________ 97 240sx esaarr \| Current Status: SOLD

09-18-2007, 06:15 PM	#14
Drftn93SR Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Roanoke, VA Age: 37 Posts: 33 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	K so i think it may be what Tyler had said about not getting enough volts to the car, causing spark knock.... Cus when I had the car first doing this it would do it about 3500 rpm then it progressed worse(battery loosing more power) then i had the new battery in it and it went back to full throttle til 4Krpm, but it wasnt that beefy of a battery.... So i just got done taking off my alt going to see if it needs rebuilt, if so i will put it back on the car, search for a bad ground, i think i may try to relocate my battery up to the front to see if i get full power from it, if so i know i have a bad ground with the battery relocation kit... So just time to wait and see what they say at the shop.... Keep you guys posted, thnx for the help so far, but its not over til im screamin down the track...