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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
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Clutch problems
Hey guys I've run into a problem with my clutch. Not sure if it's the actual clutch system, or the slave or master cylinder that's the problem. I have an SR20 with Nismo racing clutch on there. And when my friend was driving it, she was depressing the cluthc, and it make a slight snapping or popping noise, and the clutch went almost all the way down, and wont pop back up. So basically the transmission is stuck in neutral right now, with no response from the clutch at all. So if you guys know of any way to check what the main problem is, or have any solution to the problem it'd be greatly appreciated. Thanks and happy new year
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#2 |
Zilvia Addict
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check to make sure the slave cylinder is still contacting the shaft that goes into the transmission.
if the pedal "sticks" to the floor, it sounds like you need to bleed your clutch. try that and post on here edit:also, some aftermarket clutches make "snapping" sounds but it shouldnt be a loud snap, just a very faint sound when engaging and disengaging the clutch |
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#3 |
Leaky Injector
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The pedal doesn't come back up at all? I thought the pedal assembly had a spring in it to make it come back up anyway. You should check to make sure the slave is still making contact with the clutch fork. Check for clutch fluid leaks. Bleed the system and see if it still has the problem. Have someone depress the clutch pedal and hold it and watch the slave to make sure its extending and holding and not slowly retracting with the clutch pedal depressed.
If everything checks out, then its time to drop the transmission. It could be a broken pressure plate or clutch fork pivot.
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#5 |
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bleed the clutch and see if that works if not might need to change your clutch slave and master cylinder.
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#6 |
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Either you had a sudden failure of your slave cylinder (which is very uncommon), or your clutch fork broke and the slave cylinder overtraveled and the piston poped out (which is also very uncommon). You need to get under the car and have a look at the slave cyl and clutch fork.
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#7 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
Anyways try pumping the clutch pedal and see if it builds up pressure.. I'm guessing the brake fluid ate through a 16 year old line and you've been leaking fluid everywhere for the last week and never noticed. Happens to all of us. |
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#8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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clutch slave, air in the lines, clutch master, tob was installed backwards and broke, clutch fork was installed improperly. and thats all i can think of. and for gods sake dont buy a 300zx slave they are exactly the same except for the bleeder is on a different side of the clutch hose. same exact plunger size.
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#9 |
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Hey, just found this thread an i am experiencing the same symptoms like the clutch sticking. This is my situation:
Normal: -Pedal spring is intact -Fluid levels are normal Abnormal: - sudden onset right after a big drop in temp. I think its a "duh" fact that the cold has to do with it, but what did the cold do to affect the hydraulics? Is there water in my line that could freeze and block it? It started to work barely after 50 pumps, but now no more. I have yet to look under the car to see if the slave is still touching the fork. Any suggestions? |
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#11 |
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check the clutch fork pivot pin. the heads snap off. i've replaced 4 in the last year (on separate cars, not all on the same car).
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#12 | |
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Quote:
There's supposed to be a plastic "C" clip in between the spring and the pedal to prevent the gradual errosion of the pedal. Once this breaks, you need a new clutch pedal. And it'll sound like a snap then....voila no clutch pedal return. You can buy the C clip at the dealer for about 8 bucks. Check that first and foremost.
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