SPL or NIP/JDS Solid Subframe bushings?

[jhec23]

Anybody using solid bushings on their DD? I'm thinking of doing it once and for all to get rid of those annoying subframe noise that feels like something is wrong with my car. I tried aluminum collars already and now I'm using PP urethane collars but since my bushings are totally shot already, I feel like my subframe moves and shift everytime I move from a dead stop. I know SPLs are good but not much review on the JDS bushings. I want to know if the rubber inserts they use makes a big difference on the noise, if not I'll go with SPL. Thanks!

[!Zar!]

Urethane collars? That sounds like crap.

I mean the alum subframe collars have a hard enough time to not be crappy.

Just go with spl's alum bushings.

You won't regret it. Road noise isn't noticeable because your subframe slaps around like Brittney Spears' vagina right now. So it being solid will be the greatest thing ever.

[jhec23]

It's polyurethane collar made by Peak Performance, it's pretty much the same as the aluminum. The only problem is that eventually your subframe will start squeeking like shit especially if your old bushing is totally shot.

[Bushido]

subframe collars are only a band-aid for bushings that are on their way out.

once the bushings are shot, they need replacing.

solid bushings are fine for a daily, it's not going to be super comfortable though. If you can't liv with increased noise and ride harshness, install factory replacements.

[jhec23]

I finished installing my SPL bushings and been driving my car for 2 weeks now mostly freeway. Another thing that I did during the install was put a VLSD on my open diff pumpkin. The only thing that bothers me now is the loud high pitch sound coming from the diff. The faster I go the higher the pitch of the sound and it's not very healthy for the ears because it's really loud. Is this normal if you are using the SPL solid bushings or maybe because there is something wrong with my diff? If this is not normal then I will have to check my diff first or just switch to Nismo bushings if that is normal for everybody.

[drftwerks]

you diff, actually your ring and pinion.

[gotta240]

Is about to go boom.

[jhec23]

So the loud diff whine is not normal? One thing I noticed when I switched the open diff to the vlsd is that the vlsd is much tighter after I put all the shims in. Not much backlash unlike the open diff.

[khoadogg]

did the shimming cause the loud noise?

[jhec23]

I'm not sure since I installed the solid bushing and vlsd at the same time. I never had the chance to run the car with the open diff I was using before. Before I installed the solid bushings, I had the vlsd on an S13 pumpkin in my car and there was no noise. But since I have the subframe down already, I decided to transfer the vlsd to the S14 pumpkin to get a better fit.

[wangan_cruiser]

diff bearing is shot. maybe low on oil but diff needs to be checked, i had mine its annoying so i change my whole diff again.

[jhec23]

Originally Posted by wangan_cruiser

diff bearing is shot. maybe low on oil but diff needs to be checked, i had mine its annoying so i change my whole diff again.

Do you have the solid bushings too? Did it get better after you changed your diff? Thanks!

[Def]

BATLground in Atlanta didn't know how to setup a diff(I can only guess), because they ruined a 4.36 R&P I had when I had them shim things up and they gave me back the diff that had way too much backlash and what looked like incorrect tooth engagement(too much on the tip). I foolishly didn't check their work, and in about 20-30 miles of driving(hoping things would break in on a short loop around the city) it was basically metal flake city when I drained the fluid.

So yea, if you've been driving it like that, I'd say it's time to start looking for a new open diff to swap the VLSD pumpkin in and properly shim it.

[Mirage]

Yea, you might want to drop the diff and check it again so this doesn't happen.

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/2634/1pinion5rh.jpg

Might want to actually measure the backlash and bearing preload, or at least check the gear mesh pattern with some prussian blue.

I sheared 1/2 the teeth off the pinion rolling down an offramp in 2nd, previous owner swapped in the S15 helical, found out PO was a hack job (this and many other things). I swapped the diff into a new pumpkin, checked backlash and mesh pattern and have been fine for a year and a half. I have a bit of a whine, but its hardly noticeable, and the backlash was a tad tight, but mesh pattern was good.

[PoorMans180SX]

I just installed the SPL's bushings in my car. Let me tell you, it's not exactly fun, except for this part:





But it's well worth it. Makes it much more consistent, with less kickback when you're drifting.

[jhec23]

I like the bushing itself atleast I don't have to worry about those annoying sounds in the back telling you that your old bushings need replacement. I just don't like the whining of my diff so I have to take a look at that later.

[naed240sx]

If the back is stripped and the diff whines going down the freeway that is normal. It's not going to blow up. I've had three diffs in my car and they all whine like that. Now if the car still has all the sound tar and back seats and all that and the whine is still really bad then you might have a problem.

[240trainee]

Yea, installing those bushings is a giant PITA, as well as getting the the damn subframe back in the car with those bushings in it.

But, it makes the rear end feel a shit ton more solid.

[bribot]

i recently installed the nip/jds solid subframe inserts ( full insert, not slip on collar).... idk if the spl ones are hard to install but the nip/jds ones were kind of a pita. it seems like they were way to big for the subframe. i had to pound the shit out of them to go in. but then again these were my first ones ive done so maybe its just normal. they work great once you get them in though!!!

again i have never ridden in a car with spl inserts but my nip/jds inserts with the rubber tops make little noise. the noise wasnt half as bad as i was expecting. they're fine for daily driving, just a little stiff.

[240trainee]

You need to freeze the bushings, and heat the subframe, and then tap them with a hammer, they should go it.

[PoorMans180SX]

Yeah, I used a HUGE bolt, washers and nut that I used an air gun on to press the bushings in. The bottom ones shed a small layer of themselves as they went in. I didn't have a good torch to heat up the subframe and it was freezing and raining outside. It was a blast!