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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
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sr heats up during constant boost
when driving at 12lbs of boost, stock motor, it tends to increase the motor temperature. my water/ coolant gauges climbs near 250 degrees as well as the oil temperature reaches over 180 degrees and my regular temp on dash gauge starts to climb near the H mark. i have an upgraded radiator and electric fan, in working condition. anyone know how i can decrease engine temperature under heavy load.
P.S car runs perfect when driving normal. only begins to heat up when i romp on it alot. any help is appreciated. |
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#4 |
Post Whore!
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I'm guessing your headgasket sucks or your head might be lifting...
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#5 |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Newport Beach
Posts: 1,490
Trader Rating: (15)
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NO get a good radiator "KOYO" Blocking plates bottom and top, Blitz Radiator cap, Water Wetter, Electric fan or fans, check water pump, and your good...
Have the same problem and this is the fix... Theres a test do a search its a pretty good test on it all. jeff
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http://zilvia.net/f/traderratings.html?u=57636 If i sold you something or gave you it for free post here! Thanks! |
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#6 |
Leaky Injector
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so where can i buy blocking plates and what do they look like. I dont understand what these blocking plates are and how do they help my engine run cooler. just curious not doubting it just want to learn. plus what shouyld i type to search the test
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#7 |
Banned from the Marketplace
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im assuming its your headgasket if u still have a stock one..
im having the same problem, im running a koyo radiator, nismo thermostat, metal headgasket, dual electric fans, blocking plate, greddy fmic, and like 80% water + water wetter...and my temp runs up too..the car is eating a crapload of coolant and i cant figure out where from since im running a metal headgasket im assuming its not that??? if someone can help me too thatd be great |
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#9 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
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#10 | |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: North Korea
Posts: 14,579
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lol koyo fails at a radiator.
But whatever. Check your water pump. Maybe it's cavitating or going out. Replace your thermostat. Don't remove it. Yes it might fix your problem but it also can potentially fuck your motor. SWEET! Adding dew-dads and what not won't fix his problem. And suggesting such is stupid. Have your motor leakdown tested. Because something is obviously wrong. Quote:
I guess you missed the other post about someone stating that your head could be lifting huh? Ugh. Metal headgaskets.
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#11 |
Leaky Injector
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i didnt miss the post about the head lifting just not familiar with that condition. how does a head lift? by the way sounds like all SR20s have this overheating issue, so do all the jdm silvia have this issue from the factory?
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#13 |
Leaky Injector
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#14 |
Zilvia Addict
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stop being a noob and listen to Zar. leakdown test first because you may find your biggest problem first.
koyo al. radiators have been good to me, even at the track(desert) in the begining of summer. no need for electric fans, clutch fan works fine. the fan doesn't do shit after the gets moving anyways. and water wetter, a splash of coolant, and the rest water has worked great for me.
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#17 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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What they mean by blocking plate is if you look on top, there that open gap between your front mount and your radiator. Air has a tendency to go thru the fmic and then go to the least resistance of a path. Itll go over the top of the radiator or under. So you get a piece of sheetmetal from Home depot, place it under and get a cooling panel specific to the chassis for the top. They you can can some foam cutouts and stuff it on the sides to make sure as much air as possible is being diverted INTO the radiator instead of around it.
Then, flush your cooling system, changed your thermostat to colder ones and double check your water pump and make sure its fubared. It doesnt have to be leaking to be bad. The fins could be corroded and not circulating coolant enough. Then depending on where you at, distilled water, water wetter and a dash of coolant help with cavitation and lubrication. Also, change your rad cap. PS: YOU DO HAVE A FMIC RIGHT?!?! |
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#18 | |
Banned from the Marketplace
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Quote:
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#19 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
Maybe it's lifting due to a compression leak or bad head studs or both, I dunno. Like someone said before get a leakdown test done. Replace your headgasket and get some ARP head bolts. Silvias don't have an overheating problem, they just have airflow problems.... Go buy some sheet metal at a DIY store and build some ducting. Oh, I assume you're running a red top SR which means your motor is older than dirt. SR water pumps love to corrode.... I'da replaced all that shit before I installed the motor but live and learn. I'd send you a semi-new water pump I have but I'm not going to be home anytime this year.. Sorry. Oh I almost forgot.... You're oil temps are rising? Change your oil! I can only imagine how old that oil must be... |
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#20 |
Leaky Injector
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Ok so i did a leak down test and everything reads fine. so i bought this car 3 weeks ago with such general knowledge on SR20 motors. after some questionning and research, I have comne to notice that my car has only one electric fan on the radiator mount in the middleon my fan (looks a little mickey mouse set up) and my FMIC is totally blocking air into my engine bay. so next step is to check out what type of electric fan i have and the rate of CFM and maybe cut out some vent opening or make some ducts like the post guy mentioned.
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#21 |
Leaky Injector
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oh ya by the way my motor is a blacktop, and i bought the car already swaped. I did check the water pump, it spins pretty freely and my thermostat works my hoses are good. but i do have airflow restrictions BIG time. thank you guys for your help. BRB
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#22 |
Zilvia Member
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oil cooler will help..... i dont know where you live but you can try adjusting your radiator fluid/water ratio .... from 50/50 to like 30/70. water will drop the water temps guaranteed. also get a vented hood possibly and maybe upgrade ur fan to a stronger one.
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