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Old 04-25-2008, 11:06 AM   #1
mikey0129
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3 Grand to spend ?

I need some opinions

i have around 3 grand to spend right now

my car is a 93 s13 with a sr20 and s15 turbo
koyo radiator
bov
intercooler
basic stuff to make it run reliable

option A :
aem tru boost controller $300
Tanabe coils $720
Turbo timer $80
Harness $5
afc neo $300
Sport Max wheels with tire $500
New paint job $1500
Total = $3400 with out tune

do u guys think a afc will help alot with the boost controler? rather den just uping my boost with out the afc to like 12 psi or something

option B :
Enkei rpf1 $1000
tires $500
5 lug conversion with rotors and brakes $800
Tanabe coils $720
Aem tru boost controler $300
Total = $3320 with no need for tune since no afc

wat should u guys pick help me out with some decisions
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:09 AM   #2
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Option B sounds like a better choice. Your car already has a good decent amount of power (and depending on what you want to do next) braking and handling should be next on your list. (p.s stay away from cheap knockoffs and ONLY spend money on REAL ems)
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:09 AM   #3
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option B winz
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:11 AM   #4
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if you have that much money to just throw around, get a standalone...and a nice set of coils.

but if your engine is running fine and you're happy with your power,

get some really nice wheels and some aero

but yeah, option b is where it's at.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:13 AM   #5
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option b..... i've found that ~300hp on these cars is plenty

but if your going to raise the boost i'd still get a tune, even if its just an afc for now

*edit* instead of the AEM you could get an hks adjustable wastegate and an afc
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:16 AM   #6
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option b sounds about right. basic of car tuning coilovers/rims then everything else
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:17 AM   #7
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whould i hit noticable power with just turning the knob up with the boost controler?
with out the afc?
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:17 AM   #8
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option b minus the coilovers, save that money for a later date/emergency
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:20 AM   #9
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if i dont get coils den my car will look liek a 4 runner LOL
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:21 AM   #10
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I would buy this:
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/car/651864346.html
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:22 AM   #11
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i say get option b but get used tires for now u can good condition used tires cheap
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:22 AM   #12
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Option C: get a Nistune ecu and software and tune that bish for 100% reliable.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:32 AM   #13
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I would go with option B.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:32 AM   #14
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option B is my vote, but get some good wheels that dont require spacers n stuff, and do it right!


BTW where are you getting tanabe coils for 720?
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:34 AM   #15
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Option B. Handling/brakes are more important than power.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey0129 View Post
whould i hit noticable power with just turning the knob up with the boost controler?
with out the afc?
yea but you can't just keep turning up the boost without adjusting fuel, thats not a recipe for longevity
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Old 04-25-2008, 12:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey0129 View Post
whould i hit noticable power with just turning the knob up with the boost controler?
with out the afc?
Yeah, you would. You also might notice the clean, round holes your pistons would leave in the hood as they exit the car.

550cc injectors
Z32 AFM
Enthalpy base tune
Koni shocks + springs
Decent 4 lug wheels + tires
SS brake lines, good pads
Boost controller

You can do all that for ~3Gs and have a ~300HP car that you can just drive and not risk blowing up by fucking with an AFC. And it'll handle just as well as, or better than, most "JDM" coilover setups.

If you're tracking the car, you'll want to upgrade more than just the pads and lines, but if not...Z brakes (or Q45 or whatever) really aren't necessary.
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Old 04-25-2008, 12:27 PM   #18
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get a NICE set of coils, and all your multilink parts. that should be around 2500. then you'll have some left over to put into the motor or whatever.
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Old 04-25-2008, 12:29 PM   #19
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Option Z - Pay off all your debts first.
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Old 04-25-2008, 12:49 PM   #20
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Spend some of the money on making the car track ready and then spend the rest on seat time.

It'll be the best investment you'll make in the car.

Then you won't have to ask about what the car needs, because you'll already know.

True story.
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Old 04-25-2008, 01:25 PM   #21
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Spend some of the money on making the car track ready and then spend the rest on seat time.

It'll be the best investment you'll make in the car.

Then you won't have to ask about what the car needs, because you'll already know.

True story.
I don't know if driving aimlessly around a track will help anything. You need to invest in classroom and seat time with instructors.

Plus it may be cheaper to rent a car instead of tracking your own car the first time out. Most local tracks have some sort of rental car program. Check rates.
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Old 04-25-2008, 01:48 PM   #22
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option b for sure
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Old 04-25-2008, 01:48 PM   #23
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that seems like such a waste of 3 grand..

i say get the coils if they are new... tanabes have great spring rates, and are good entry level coils.

leave the wheels and tires alone until you find what you want that will set you apart, dont buy wheels just to settle for new wheels... trust me ive made that mistake once or twice.

dont spend 300 on a boost controller if your going to just put it at 12psi..either get a manual boost controller (like slow boy racings) or just get the HKS wastegate actuator, its like 100 shipped on ebay and goes up to a little over 12psi iirc.

if you want a turbo timer, get the apexi, greddy, or buddy club (buddy club has a nice security feature, car wont start if you have security lock on, you have to enter the code on the timer for the ignition to work)
dont waste your money on the harness, just wire it in it takes all of 5 minutes.

theres no point in getting an AFC if you arent running bigger injectors, use that money for something else

since you have tires and wheels listed, maybe you need tires? i assume your on stockers, just get some nice yokohamas, they cant be more than 100 a piece brand new

if you want to lower a car, go ahead and get the correct suspension work to keep your geometry, its up to you here, i would go battle version

replace your fron tension rods, yours are probably beat to hell especially since you have an s13

now you have a few options with what you do now, it really depends on what you want to do with your car

option a- your 5 lug + brakes ( i assume z brakes here... i hope) 800
spend the rest on some 5 lug wheels (starions, z32 etc.) and put your 400 dollar tires on them

option b ( what i would do)- get some z32 wheels (should be cheap as hell, put your 400 dollar tires on them)
5 lug swap- 400
upgrade to STI/EVO brakes, look it up, its not as hard as it sounds and you can do it easily in this price range


so youve got

tanabe coil -720
HKS actuater - 100
turbo timer - 70
tires - 400
RUCAS- 150
rear toe - 150 (or you can do wicked for 90, ive been running wicked for over a year now and i abuse the hell out of my car)
rear t/c- 150
front tension rods - 150

total ~1900
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Old 04-25-2008, 01:52 PM   #24
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Option Z - Pay off all your debts first.
agreed, you should pay off what you owe first
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Old 04-25-2008, 01:53 PM   #25
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option B > option a
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Old 04-25-2008, 01:56 PM   #26
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agreed, you should pay off what you owe first
oh dear god yes.. if you are in ANY debt pay it off...

especially if its credit cars.. we are headed into a recession right now, honestly the best option would be to try and get out of debt so you have some liquid cash for when the rush comes
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Old 04-25-2008, 02:01 PM   #27
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Option Z - Pay off all your debts first.
Best option
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Old 04-25-2008, 02:10 PM   #28
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ya!!! save your monies

i would buy a used set of wheels get ok tires rs2 in front federal in the back.

5 lug is about 400 and then gettin a good set of brakes 30mm are around 200 if you shop around.

boost controllers is where you spend your money and afc or pfc would b good.

tanabe for 720 thats a pretty good deal.

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Old 04-25-2008, 02:11 PM   #29
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Old 04-25-2008, 02:12 PM   #30
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