What does the dealerships do....

[dball33]

I'm going to have some time this month when I come home from school, and I want to do a tune up or maintence on my car. I want to learn how to do the stuff myself, but I don't know what needs to be done besides the regular oil changes. So what does the dealerships do when you take your car in for them to inspect/check up? I have a s13 hb with about 192k.

[West]

60K Maintenance:

-Air Filter Replacement/Cleaning
-Spark Plug Replacement
-Fuel Filter Replacement
-Timing Belt etc. Replacement
-Oil Change

Inspect the following:

-vapor lines
-fuel lines
-brake lines & cambles
-brake pads & rotors
-transmission fluid & differential gear oil
-steering gear & linkage, axle & suspension parts
-steering linkage ball joints & front suspension ball joints
-Super HICAS linkage on HICAS model
-exhaust system

[LanceS13]

::whispers to Mark:: psst...our cars don't have timing belts <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

[dball33]

-For the transmission and brake fluids, how do you tell if it needs changing or not?
-For steering gear & linkage, axle & suspension parts, steering linkage ball joints & front suspension ball joints, how should I check it? Do I just look to see if they're loose, cracking, etc.?
-How do I inspect of the exhaust system?
-For the lines, do I just check to see if they're still holding up?

Sorry for all the questions. I haven't done much since I got the car.

[nrcooled]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (dball33 @ Dec. 04 2002,1:35)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">-For the transmission and brake fluids, how do you tell if it needs changing or not?
-For steering gear & linkage, axle & suspension parts, steering linkage ball joints & front suspension ball joints, how should I check it? Do I just look to see if they're loose, cracking, etc.?
-How do I inspect of the exhaust system?
-For the lines, do I just check to see if they're still holding up?

Sorry for all the questions. I haven't done much since I got the car.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
yes

You are making sure they don't have the potential to fail. &nbsp;You will know when they fail you are just checking major stress points to see it they will fail

[240 2NR]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (dball33 @ Dec. 04 2002,12:35)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">-For the transmission and brake fluids, how do you tell if it needs changing or not?
-For steering gear & linkage, axle & suspension parts, steering linkage ball joints & front suspension ball joints, how should I check it? Do I just look to see if they're loose, cracking, etc.?
-How do I inspect of the exhaust system?
-For the lines, do I just check to see if they're still holding up?

Sorry for all the questions. I haven't done much since I got the car.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Trans, diff, and brake fluid:

If they haven't been replaced yet, now would be a good time. &nbsp;The interval on the trans and diff is 60k. &nbsp;Brake fluid should really be flushed and replaced every 3 years or so, and more frequently the harder you are on the system (racers will do this between every race). &nbsp;Check the FAQ for procedures.


Steering linkage etc:

Look for play in the systems, or broken seals. &nbsp;At ~60k the usual failures on the 240 are the TC rod bushings (they'll ooze) and the tie rod end boots (they ooze too).


Exhaust system:

Look for holes and rust. &nbsp;Look really hard and I'm sure you can find enough reason to upgrade.

[Jeff240sx]

I was thinking that the dealerships commit felonies when you take your car there.
Rape, Robbery, Larceny, Extortion, Racqueteering, Conspiracy, Fraud, and Battery of the wallet.
But your answers are good too.
-Jeff

[dball33]

For the T/C rod, should I buy new ones with the polyurethance bushings already in at pdm? I'm not sure but I heard that it might be a pain to have them &nbsp;put. Are there any other linkage stuff that I should be aware of to replace? Would it be better to replace entire parts (ie control arms, etc.) with new bushings in them or just replace the bushings?

[flipboi13]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ Dec. 04 2002,4:21)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I was thinking that the dealerships commit felonies when you take your car there.
Rape, Robbery, Larceny, Extortion, Racqueteering, Conspiracy, Fraud, and Battery of the wallet.
But your answers are good too.
-Jeff</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Been drinking have we? License and registration please.

j/k jeff, haha

[adey]

<!--QuoteBegin--dball33+Dec. 04 2002,3<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (dball33 @ Dec. 04 2002,3<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>0)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Would it be better to replace entire parts (ie control arms, etc.) with new bushings in them or just replace the bushings?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
If there is nothing wrong with the existing parts, it would be cheaper for you to just buy bushings and press them in yourself (having a shop press them would reduce the price gap, but would still likely be cheaper than replacing whole unit).

However, if there's any sort of damage or rust on the part you're replacing, then it may be wiser to buy the whole part (t/c rod) with polyurethane bushings pre-pressed.
Which option you decide on will also depend on your budget.

[mrmephistopheles]

Dealerships are in the business to make money, and when you take your car in to get serviced, it's part of the mechanic's job to find all the problems with your car, so they can recommend the repair (and according parts and labor).
AFAIK, most if not all dealerships will warranty their parts and labor for at least a year.

Anyway, the service they tell you about & sell you, they do. They can't afford to be fraudulent. NNA will not allow dealerships to behave this way. I must say, that some of the pricing CAN be exorbitant, but at least the work is good.
It's always good to ask if a Master Tech can work on your car. Those are the guys who've been wrenching for 20+ years.

Kevin

[vector601]

Yeah, most dealers rape you hard deep down. Okay they use OEM parts but who needs this when there are equal or better &nbsp;aftermarket equip. Plus the service charge is crazy.
My tune-up is based on if it needs to be replaced:
a. Spark plugs/wires
b. Cap/rotor
c. Fuel filter
d. oil/oil filter
e. Air filter
f. A major tune-up will include a new timing chain.
G. Check/refill/change: brake fluid, tranny/diff. fluid, Power steering fluid, hydo clutch fluid, & coolant.
Brakes and suspension parts need to be inspected and replaced if and only if they look like it's going to leave you stranded on the side of the road in the near future.