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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Peterborough, ON
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![]() First off, S14 Sr20det its in my S13.
Tried starting it for the first time Thought i had everything hooked up but when i turn the key i get nothing. no noise from the starter no noise from anywhere ![]() Checked all grounds, there good I'm getting power to my ecu (at least i think i am, searching for a pin layout as i type) Power at the starter is there. i had a member here on zilvia do my wiring and I'm hoping that's not the problem interior lights, gauges, exterior lights, signals all that working. there is one plug coming from under my intake manifold closet to the firewall...cant seem to locate where it is coming from any idea? ill take a pic soon I also don't hear my fuel pump come on, should it be making the priming noise every time the ignition is on or just the first time... this leads me to think its the ecu or something. I tried checking for codes by turning the screw in the ecu clockwise and then the key in the ignition but nothing lights up.,..wtf!!! ![]() ![]() ![]() this is frustrating ![]() -------------------------------------------------------------------- Edit: found this on the web... http://www.kouki.co.uk/Reference/srpinoutb.asp so 109, 58, 59 should have power right? I'm going to check the other ones right now anything else i should check... ------------------------------------------------------------------- Edit: Yeah so those all have power... heres the random plug that goes under the manifold, whats its for? ![]() Also theres is this plug out front, is this to be unused... ![]() |
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#5 |
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how would he be getting spark without it cranking?
anyway, check your ignitor. its probably toast edit: just realized you said no fuel prime.. sounds like wiring issues.. who did your wiring? |
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#8 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Quote:
It has to be wiring. |
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#9 |
Nissanaholic!
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or it could be coincidental; bad fuel pump or fuel pump wiring (which is a common s13 problem) and bad ignitor or starter
wiring up an sr is pretty easy, anyone thats actually charging you to do it im sure knows what they are doing... |
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#10 |
Zilvia Addict
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Well, if it was bad fuel pump or fuel pump wiring would it really effect not cranking at all? With an sr swap he should have a walbro anyways.... I'm really not sure. Just kinda thinking aloud. But then again, my motorless car outside will prime if i connect the battery and stick the key in. No ignitor/starter.
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#12 | |
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first pic is the knock sensor harness, so even if you get it to crank ur gonna have problems, your harness is fucked up, second pic looks like the plug that goes to your crank sensor. there should not be any unsed plugs there? get it redun befor you go any further, hope this helps bud.
Quote:
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#14 |
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Wow, Zilvia has let this thread down.
When you turn the key to 'ignition on', if everything's wired correctly, you'll hear the fuel pump prime for 5 secs. There's a relay click when it starts priming, and a relay click when it stops. If you don't have that - STOP. The ECU sends a signal to the fuel pump relay - I believe it's pin 104 on the S13 SR harness, it's black and pink. On the S13 it connects on one of the power plugs (forgot whether it's grey or brown). As far as starting - you've got a few systems here. First is the starter itself - gets constant 12V from a thick black/red wire to the battery terminal. Then the solenoid gets 12v power through a slightly smaller black/yellow wire from the ignition switch, through the fuse box. It grounds through the intake manifold. Nothing happens unless the clutch pedal gets pressed (interlock relay gets grounded). You can try pulling the switch plug out and shorting the two pins. Get your harness sorted, then start troubleshooting the starting system.
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#15 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
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so what should i be doing first?? i hate electrical stuff, that why i sent it out
![]() My starter is getting constant power. As for the clutch pedal my last 240 you didn't have to but but yesterday i pushed it in anyways and still got nothing. I'm going to take the lower harness out and clean it up and make sure that's all good. Could me ecu just be toast? And checking codes on the ecu, i turned the screw clockwise put the key in the ignition and i dont see any led light up, something wrong ? |
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#16 |
Weaves, as Gsx pointed out above, the smaller black/yellow wire should have power once the ignition is engaged.....last night, that wire was not getting power... but that might be because the clutch wasn't pressed....I'd check that out tonight.
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#17 |
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was the s13 an auto before the swap?
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#19 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
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i beg forgiveness for my noob experience.
well it might of been a ground... ![]() So now it cranks but the ground that i attached is overheating and smoking. So i don't want to keep on cranking until i know whats up. is it doing that because someother ground isnt doing its job, or that i have another ground on the same spot on the chasiss? its the ground from the rear of the engine. ![]() the other ground attached to it is from my injectors. there only grounded by that right, the individual screws that hold each coil pack in isn't a ground right? |
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#20 |
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the not turning over problem is either in your lower engine harness (not the sr harness but the s13 lower harness) or in your ignition switch or park neutral switch on the clutch pedal. if the starter was bad you'd hear a click from either your starter solenoid or the start relay clicking.
pm sent =] Dave
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#21 |
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If that's the only ground you've got, you're in trouble. You need a 14GA or 12GA ground going from the intake manifold (which is where the rest of the harness grounds to) to the strut tower/somewhere on the body, that's been sanded clean of paint/debris. Sounds like that's your major problem.
Don't start the car until you do that.
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#22 |
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this may sound weird but this happened with my s14 and s14 sr long time ago.
fucking ignition was bad... couldnt figure it out for ever. everything worked but car wouldnt crank over. |
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#23 |
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gsxr is correct, you need a ground from the battery to the chassis /w no paint, and a ground from the chassis to the intake manifold. then another ground from the head in the very back to the fire wall. other than that u should be good. if your grounds are getting hot then you either have a bad connection or you need more of them. glad u got it started =]
i'm confused on that last brownish plug by the tps though. it's bugging me lol, you have the tps plugged in which is good, and you have the vvt plugged in, and you have the cas plugged in cause i can see it reaching around. the only thing i can think of is it goes to the coolant temp sending unit and the coolant temp sensor, that'd be about the only other thing around that vacinity *shrug. i'll take a look at an s14 sr when i get to the shop tomorrow and see. anywho, glad it works :P i think whoever converted your s14 sr20 harness is an idiot and should be shot. i bet he drives a gay ass datsun of some kind. he shouldn't be allowed to work on cars rofl. ttyl man Dave =]
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#24 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Peterborough, ON
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alright so i slapped on some 4 GA wire from the manifold to the strut tower, just waiting on one piece of intercooler piping from the welding shop in town.
So with out the knock sensor installed I'm i going to have problems down the road???? As for the other plug everything around it is plugged in, throttle senor, cas so I'm still confused..any one help me out on that one?? |
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#25 |
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i looked at another s14 sr20 here at the shop and that left over plug by the tps doesn't go to anything. perhaps it was an automatic s14 sr harness and that is the kickdown plug for the tps, but since you have a 5 speed tps/motorset it's not needed. tuck it away, cut it off, light it on fire lol. other than that the coolant temp sensor and sender plugs just come out of there and go straight to the sensor, there's no sub harness for them. you need to find your knock sensor or a knock sensor but ultimately i can't see the car not being driveable without one. i'm glad the guy who wired up your s14 sr into an s13 chassis didn't mess up your harness after all...... ^_^
i am deeply offended rofl a ground is a terrible thing to waste Dave =]
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Last edited by Z U L8R; 05-29-2008 at 03:13 PM.. |
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#26 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Alright so now I'm trying to start it...it cranks but doesnt even seem like its trying to start
I'm only getting spark on one cylinder the 3rd one from the firewall. Spark plugs dont smell like fuel. Injectors aren't sending fuel into the engine, there not even getting the 12 volt constant when the car is on the "on" position, I'm getting fuel up untill the injectors. i checked my ignitor with the volt meter like what the fsm says and it seemed fine. This weekend though I'm going to hopefully get another ecu and ignitor and reset my CAS timing i think that's my best best don't you think?? Last edited by weaves; 05-31-2008 at 11:45 AM.. |
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#27 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Peterborough, ON
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http://www.kouki.co.uk/reference/nis...et-ecu-pinouts
why is it that I'm getting power to "ecu power back up" pin 58 and not getting power to" ecu power" pin 59 OMGZ this is royally pissing me off ... |
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#29 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Peterborough, ON
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ill try to call you guys tomorrow.
but i think i found the problem... OK so this is what i have come up with, after searching the fsm i found this diagram.... and well since im getting power to pin 58 (red) and no power to 59 Ive concluded that i have hooked something up wrong (green) its not the relay as i have switched one that i know that works.. i followed where the relay goes and its the bunch of wires that go into the wheel well to the front of the car where it meets the fuse box... there are two plugs off the main harness that i have plugged into two plugs that come from that harness... im not sure what else im missing... ill take some pics tomorrow. ![]() |
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