Air pockets in heater core Q's

[Bigsyke]

How long would it take for any air bubbles in the heatercore or coolant system to work their way out with the stock 0.8 radiator cap>? Or is this impossible, and system needs to be fully reflushed again.

I was thinking the water pump would work the air pockets out when some steady driving.

[blackrms13]

u gotta open the radiator cap when the car is cold and start up the car and let the car run with the heat on full blast, then u start seeing water jumping up n down in the radiator, thats all the air pocket coming out

but how do you know if u have air in the heater core?

and if u know u do need a radiator flush, flush it before u bleed it

[Bigsyke]

Originally Posted by blackrms13

u gotta open the radiator cap when the car is cold and start up the car and let the car run with the heat on full blast, then u start seeing water jumping up n down in the radiator, thats all the air pocket coming out

but how do you know if u have air in the heater core?

and if u know u do need a radiator flush, flush it before u bleed it

Ive done the whole jacking up the front, running w/o rad cap, cracking the bleeder screw untill coolant doesnt bubble. But my looped TB coolant line is clear, I have an air bubble that keeps surfacing on the peak of the loop. Also my heater doesnt blow as hot as It used to before the flush.

From what ive been researching, even bleeding the coolant wont get the air bubbles out of the heater core, which will circulate back into the engine/coolant system. The only way to really flush is redrain, remove the heater core hose, bleeder bolt and rad cap, refill untill there is nomore bubbles or airpockets. My understanding air can become sucked in if you open up the bleeder bolt while the engine is running (there is a sticker right next to it saying do not open while engine running).

I was only hoping going back to the stock low pressure .8bar cap the bubbles would work themselves out back into the resevour.

[Fred Allen Burge]

Want a valuable tip? Read the FSM and it will tell you what to do to properly bleed the air out of your system. But, I'll just tell you, take the top line off that goes into your firewall to the heater core. Fill the rad up until water pours out of that line then pop it back on quickly trying not to let any air get back in it, that will force any air out of the system. That's it. Worked for me.

Fred

[Bigsyke]

I know that, but that would force me to redrain the whole system.



Im only wondering if any air bubbles work themselves out eventually.