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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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![]() I have pretty much all the other systems removed, the only things on my Intake mani are the air regulator, and the aicv assembly.
I took some resistance and voltage readings from some sensors per the FSM, but left my sheet at home, so I dont have them in front of me. Anyways, car starts up, idles around 850-9 and will occasionally bump to 1400, sometimes 1600-1700 then dips back down. its not really hunting it just surges at some points. No Vac leaks. I performed racepar1's ground fix, and it brought my idle down from 2k, and it made the car driveable(I whipped it around the block) Ive also filled the main tube that splits to the regulator and aicv unit with lots and lots of carb cleaner and aerosol seafoam. should I maybe try to pop the smaller hose at the aicv off and spray directly in there? Just looking for some more Ideas, Its gotta be something with those two items. will it ever be perfect? Just want to get some discussion on this, im sure guys out there who have done DOHC swaps have have eliminated everything but these two as well. Thanks, Paul
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#3 |
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If you've followed the FSM's diagnostic procedure for both units and came up good, there's another problem somewhere. Typically when the IAA-air regulator goes bad you just have a high idle, though it's constant without surging. The IACV would have more of a low idle, but either one can do different things depending on what's wrong. If the FSM shows good I'd suspect something else, are you certain there's no vacuum leak?
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#5 |
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azian, get outta my thread with your bullshit. Search on this and show me something, been on this board a long fucking time, i know how to search.
RDM, yeah I am almost positive, not much vaccum left ya know? eng temp sensor had 1.5-1.8v air reg had 61 ohms resistance only things I wrote down. I guess i am just going to keep going through the book. what i really want to know is that given my setup, a perfect idle should be achievable if everything is in proper working order?
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#6 |
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Yes. My car and numerous others are the exact same way. All that remains is the AICV and IAA. The EVAP system, EGR, and anything else intake related is gone.
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#7 |
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Azianking, GTFO with your bullshit posts.
Your not helping anyone. And on a side note, I noticed you stated ProjectRDM tries to act like a "tough guy" and doesn't help. When in fact, He's the reason my car is running right now. Douche. |
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#8 |
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RDM is curt because he doesnt want to complicate shit. dont misconstrue the dude, he is harsh sometimes but I have come to appreciate his style.
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#9 |
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So I am trying to time it today and first of all the timing gun was broken, looked fucking sabotaged after my buddy nick opened the end that goes around the wire, so we did a quick fix lol:
![]() ![]() but the idle wouldnt stay down and we were still off although we got it to rev smooth and shit, under load it had nothing. Started to pull the AICV, looks fucking nasty, its soaking right now, but the solenoids were good: ![]() Pulled the air regulator, opened it, checking it out, wondering if maybe this spring is shot and its no longer holding this flap well enough, decided to test the solenoid, and lo and behold hte fucker was no good. I hate this thing: ![]() lol ka ![]() put the teins on too rad ![]() So I am going to get a new one tommorow and hopefully put it together and be good to go tommorow night. I see one in Hawaii on ebay for $30, he says the dealer price is $81, im hoping my hookup at napa can get me this thing for cheap.
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