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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Fusebox relocation and plug identification. PICS...56k Stay outside.
Well I am just about finished up with my fuse box relocation. I re-located it to the inside of my car into the center console. The only problem that I have now is that I forgot to label a few of the plugs so I need a little bit of help identifying them. Feel free to ask any questions about the fusebox relocation.
The car is an s14, the engine in the car is an s14sr20det. If anyone can help me identify these I will give positive rep and really appreciate it! Mystery Plug# 1 ![]() ![]() Mystery Plug #2 ![]() ![]() The other 3 plugs are the ones that were connected directly to the plastic of the fuse box. I believe that a few of them were unused before I pulled them but not sure which ones... ![]() ![]() Mystery Plug#3 ![]() ![]() Sorry for the crappy pics...Now onto the fusebox relocation pics... ![]() ![]() ![]() After I started looming the harness and cleaning er up. Still lots of work to go at this point. ![]() ![]() ![]() This is where I'm at right now. The relocation is nearly finished but I dont want to tie up the final knots before I figure out what the mystery left over plugs are. |
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#3 | |
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as do i, once you figure this all out, you'd be loved by zilvia forever
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#5 |
Zilvia Junkie
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its pretty easy relocationg the harness under the dash or under console. all you do is pull it all out, move it where you want it to. tape it up good, extend the wires that you need to like headlight turn signal etc, thats it. i wouldnt cut any wires out that you dont need as that will just cause shit to not work. just leave it alone and tape it up good. now all thats left in your engine bay is your motor and your motor harness. thats it. rout your motor harness under you intake manifold and your done. easy as that. i did it to my s13 and shit clean. harness is under the dash as well as the battery.
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Zilvia FREAK!
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wow that isa crazy spot for the fuse box
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#8 | |
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awesome.
do a write up and i will pretend to give you posi rep. but i will love you forever. <3
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#10 | |
Zilvia Member
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It looks more intimidating then it is. |
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That's all auto stuff. Car used to be automatic I take it.
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#12 |
Zilvia Member
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Im going to be doing this within the next month or so. When I took the fuse box apart I was like
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#13 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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But why put it in the center console? I like using mine for other things. My fuse box is in the trunk, without extending wires.
Moving the fuse box to where you want it and then extending wires is dumb. Just separate all the wires that go back out under the hood(you will have to cut and resolder to untangle some of them). I did it this way and didn't have to extend anything. |
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#14 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Yes the car used to be automatic. I chose the center console since the car is not a DD. the center console to me really had no purpose and I will not miss the extra storage space. The fitment in the center console is just fine.
I will do a write up on this a little later but dont expect much since as most people mentioned there isnt much to it, just your time spent more than anything. I did however extend all my lights, horn, etc. rather than seperate them and re-solder. ...so rdm the 3 plugs that come off of the fuse box are all useless to me, what about the other few plugs that I mentioned? Can any one identify those or were you suggesting that those also are plugs used for an automatic transmission? |
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Zilvia Junkie
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lol rep...never heard of it.
Man that looks like a sweet set up. When you are done, PLEASE do a write up for that. It will be golden.
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#18 |
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Haha Evan if you're that serious about it, I'll hook u up.
I did mine in the glove box also, because I dont have a glove box :/ I recognize the three plugs that are attached to the bottom of the fusebox: ![]() The single, bit wire is alternator +12v. The 3-pin triangle thing is starter solenoid +12v and oil pressure sensor... but I dont see that in ur pics. The 2-pin one was from the KA, right? Ugh I gotta check my schematics. The 8 pin black one is tranny (lower engine) harness. I have pinouts from when I had to do my S13 SR -> S14 swap, because I meant to post a writeup... but once the car "worked" I forgot all about that ![]() That was like 4 months ago, btw lol.
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There is nothing too technical about it. Just make sure you label everything before you start pulling the harness around through the driver side firewall. Here is a little write up of what i did
1. Label all plugs, connectors, etc before you start tearing anything apart. (high beam, low beam, turn signal, etc I think you get the point) 2. Separate the fuse box into the 3 or 4 different sections its made up of. On the bottom side there are tabs that you have to push towards each other which will allow you to slide the different sections apart. 3. Remove driver side fender. It make pulling all the plugs and wiring through the chassis much easier!!!! 4. Start disconnecting all the plugs, lights, grounds, etc and pulling them through the hole behind the coolant overflow reservoir 5. Remove dash. The reason i put this step here is that it makes it a lot easier to pull everything through the firewall when you can see what’s going on down there 6. Start feeding each plug and section of the fuse box through the section of the firewall where the hood pop cable comes out of. You most likely have to take some of the bulky fuses out of the different sections of the fuse box because they are too large to fit through the hole in the fire wall. REMEMBER WHERE THESE FUSES GO!!! 7. Once you have everything ran through the firewall start running it towards the passenger side where the glove box is. I ran everything along my dash bar and just zip tied the wires to it. 8. Now that everything is over by the glove box you can start extending the wires that need to be extended. (High beam, low beam, turn signal, corner light, and running light if you wish for both driver and passenger side) 9. I used 14ga wire for all the stuff i extended. Although some wires are orange, yellow, green, blue, and whatever else, I used only 2 different colors. Red for power and black for ground. You will need at least one 100 foot spool of red and one 100 foot spool of black. Instead of extending the grounds all the way I just grounded everything to the chassis up by the headlights. 10. Extend each plug separately as to not confuse yourself which plug is what after you cut the plugs away from the wires. 11. Be extra careful to pay attention to the color of the wire when extending it to the front of the car so when you re-connect the plug you know which of the 5 or so red wires, running to the front of the car, it connects to. (Ex. on the low beam on the driver side there is one ground and two power wires. There is a red with blue stripe wire and a red with green stripe wire. Make sure you note which one is which when extending them with the 14ga red wire to the front of the car so that when you go to reconnect the plug you know which one of the solid red wires the red with green stripe and red with blue stripe wire go to) 12. Most of you will most likely be doing this wire tuck so that you can slam your car and not worry about rubbing through wires. I found the most convenient place to run all the wires was along the lip of the frame rail underneath the fender. If you don’t know what im talking about i can show you a pic or something 13. You also might have to extend the alternator, and/or the two starter wires ( the thick power wire and whatever the thin one is) 14. Instead of running all the wires that needed power to the metal tab on the fuse box where they all joined originally i used a distribution box out of a Chevy truck. (Red box in the my pics above) 15. now all you have to do is put the sections of the fuse box back together and zip tie the whole thing up to the dash bar. I have probably forgot a few steps so if you need any help just let me know |
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#20 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Just down load the service manual and go thru everything, you can get rid of a lot of weight and get rid of a lot of crap.
I made my own harness and fuse box from scracth and i retained everything p/w lcks etc except a/c which i removed, heres some pics My entire chassis harness weighs 10 lbs, i believe oem was close to 40lbs with everything Here is everything, its all tied into the underdash crossbar. ![]() ![]()
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#21 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Nice write up RB25. You pretty much covered it all. It is a time consuming process but it cleans up the engine bay. I think the only things you might have left out were extending the wires for the horns if you want to keep them.
If you are easily intimidated by wires this is not something I would attempt even though it is straight forward and no FSM or anything is needed. You will be dealing with lots and lots of wires. Make sure to have a good soldering gun too. |
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#22 |
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That is what I want to do to my S14 for a while now. I wanted to relocate the fuse box in the engine bay to where my rear seat was and relocate the fuse box that is near the kick panel on the drivers side to where the rear seat was and make some sort of inclosure to hide wires and mount the boxes. Also while simplifing the harness as well deleting out things that where not necessary.
Is there any issues with extending the wires farther away?
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#24 |
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I moved my fusebox to under the dash about 10 years ago, mainly for ease of work and to shorten all the wiring. For all the kids looking to do this I ask one question, why? Because it's uber cool?
There's no need for a writeup since everyone has a different method, and everyone will do it, mount it, and use it differently. It's as simple as removing the box, cutting all the wiring short, then mounting it somewhere else and reconnecting everything. There's a few wires which share colors but a lot of wiring is also deleted if your car truly is a track mule. The best case though is to leave it be unless you're really building a track car and in that case you should build your own harness, devoid of all OE setups. Moving it for the sake of killing time is stupid. I moved it on a few people's cars and they ended up wanting all their OE stuff back and putting a new harness in.
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#25 | |
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I considered simplifiying and moving(fuse boxes) the harness because I just don't like access wires hanging around that I'm never going to need. I also got inspired to do it when I had saw a white S13 with gold Gram 57's with a RB26 in it a while ago on ebay that had it done.(might I mention that car was done very well.)
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#26 | |
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The main reason i did it was because a lot of my friends have already started rubbing through their harness because of the way the factory wire is ran and their cars are super low. I started to get real close to rubbing on the harness so I decided just to move it before something bad happened not because i thought it was "uber cool". In fact if didnt have such an important purpose for moving it I would have just left it alone beacuse it was a rediculous amount of work and gave me multiple head aches!! |
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#27 |
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kind of an old thread, but im in the process of rebuilding my car. the shell used to have abs, and hicas.
so there are those to big computer boxes in the rear of the car, basically where the seatbelts go for the front seats. im curious if anyone has deloomed the interior harness to remove all this shit? also, anyone have a pinout for a ABS 93 S13 INTERIOR harness...? ive searched everywhere for a pinout of that shit thanksss
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#29 |
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Lol I don't know why you guys think pulling all those wires around the radio and shifter is cool... but OK.
I'm much happier with mine down behind the glovebox, or eliminating the stock fusebox all together and running my Autozone fuse panel up under the stock passenger airbag location.
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