Elec. Problems OBDI KA24DE S14

[RentonD]

So I'm not sure if anyone can help me out or not but here it goes.

My S14 has been having really weird electrical issues lately. The dome light fluctuates when I press on the brakes and it has been getting dimmer and dimmer to the point where it does not shine at all anymore. In addition, my gauge cluster has very little to no lighting now. It used to have full lighting. My radio resets quite frequently, even while driving and loses its stored data. Also, my CLOCK resets. As in there isn't even enough residual charge for the ECU to preserve data. I've had the battery replaced. I'm going to AutoZone to have the alternator checked ASAP.

Does anyone have any idea why I could be having these electrical problems?

So far the suggestions have been: Bad ECU, Bad Alt., or a Worn Through Body Harness, but my car is not slammed.

[g6civcx]

Bad ground or short in the harness.

Time to pull everything apart and check every single wire and connector.

[Ceepo]

I bet its the alternator, or a short in harness somewere...

[ForcedNduction]

Why do you think the ecu isnt retaining memory? If you wanted you could turn your car on and disconnect the battery, your car should stay running if not replace your alternator. With the battery still disconnected put a mulimeter on the positive terminal and ground. You should get 13-14vdc

[RentonD]

Originally Posted by ForcedNduction

Why do you think the ecu isnt retaining memory? If you wanted you could turn your car on and disconnect the battery, your car should stay running if not replace your alternator. With the battery still disconnected put a mulimeter on the positive terminal and ground. You should get 13-14vdc

Well the clock data is ECU-based isn't it? If my clock continuously resets or fails to even produce a time couldn't that possibly be a bad ECU?

[army240]

Originally Posted by RentonD

Well the clock data is ECU-based isn't it? If my clock continuously resets or fails to even produce a time couldn't that possibly be a bad ECU?

No it's not ECU based... the clock is a module on it's own...

Check the battery voltage with the car off, then start it, check the voltage again while idling, and crank the rpm at 1500-2000 and recheck the voltage again on the battery... you're voltage with the engine off should be around 12-13V(depends on how much time the engine was off) and with the engine running(idling and reving) it should be around 13.8 to 14.2V... if those values are read on the multimeter it's a wiring problem... I'd say a bad ground somewhere it the harness...

Frank

[projectRDM]

Why would the clock have anything to do with the ECU? Does your alarm clock in your house get it's data from the fuse box?

Alternator is on the way out more than likely.

[ForcedNduction]

Looking at the schematics for the clock and radio issues you are having....
Power for your clock and radio back-up are tied to the same 7.5a fuse. My first guess was a blown fuse but you said the clock and radio resets so the fuse is more than likely good. You should ensure it’s a 7.5a fuse though. Do you have an aftermarket radio? If so recheck the wiring assuring everything is wired correctly paying close attention to the BAT (BACKUP) for the radio (wire color is OR/G).

As for the dome light (aka interior light) issue, you may have a bad bulb. The dome light, cluster lighting, and brake lights do not tie into each other; each has its own fuse. If your dome light is bad replace it with a 10w bulb.

For your cluster lighting being dim or inop, check the dimmer switch then the fuse. I doubt all of the bulbs in your cluster are bad. I’ve seen dimmer switches melt by/at the plug before.

Stop lamp = Fuse 7
Clock = Fuse 8
Audio bu = Fuse 8
Dome light = Fuse 6
Cluster lighting = Fuse 4

[RentonD]

Originally Posted by ForcedNduction

Looking at the schematics for the clock and radio issues you are having....
Power for your clock and radio back-up are tied to the same 7.5a fuse. My first guess was a blown fuse but you said the clock and radio resets so the fuse is more than likely good. You should ensure it’s a 7.5a fuse though. Do you have an aftermarket radio? If so recheck the wiring assuring everything is wired correctly paying close attention to the BAT (BACKUP) for the radio (wire color is OR/G).

As for the dome light (aka interior light) issue, you may have a bad bulb. The dome light, cluster lighting, and brake lights do not tie into each other; each has its own fuse. If your dome light is bad replace it with a 10w bulb.

For your cluster lighting being dim or inop, check the dimmer switch then the fuse. I doubt all of the bulbs in your cluster are bad. I’ve seen dimmer switches melt by/at the plug before.

Stop lamp = Fuse 7
Clock = Fuse 8
Audio bu = Fuse 8
Dome light = Fuse 6
Cluster lighting = Fuse 4

Thanks. I'll check some fuses later. Nothing works anymore inside. No windows, no lights, no blower, no radio, no wipers. It's all ka-put.

[ForcedNduction]

Check your positive battery terminal. These areas are notorious for corrosion. Disconnect the two connectors going into the red plug and inspect. These plugs suppy power for all systems.

[RentonD]

Originally Posted by ForcedNduction

Check your positive battery terminal. These areas are natorious for corrosion. Disconnect the two connectors going into the red plug and inspect. These plugs suppy power for all systems.

I'll check it, but I am getting power for my headlights. I now have no brake lights, no turn signals, no nothing.

EDIT: GOOD CALL ON THE BATTERY THING. I pulled the little black connecting cable or something off and it was beautiful. My car jumped back to life. I'm double checking to make sure that it was just loose and a little corroded on the inside but all things seem to be working again.

[RentonD]

Is this proper electrical setup? My battery wiring seems to be VERY different from any of the other ones I have seen. [Sorry For The Double Post]

[projectRDM]

They cut off the OE junction block. Same connection, just ugly.

You can delete that and use a single piece of wire, if you trace those both into the fusebox they both go to the same terminal.

[ForcedNduction]

Thats good to hear.

This connection at you battery is anything from abnormal. Those connectors are prone for corroding. To make a better connection you can ditch that black connector and crimp a terminal to it. I'd also check the other area in orange where someone has made a splice to the power cable just to be safe.