Car wont start - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

redline racer510 · 11-24-2009, 04:48 PM

I have 95 240sx (ka)I was driving normally and when i got to the stop light and my car hesitated and then just cut off. I tried starting it and it wouldnt start. I grabbed a pair of pliers and pulled out one of the spark plug wires and stuck the pliers inside and about 1/16 inch away from a chasis ground and noticed i wasnt getting any spark. My question is how often do the internal coils on a 95 KA go out and would you recommend changing the cap,rotor,plug wires before spending $200+ dollars on a brand new distributor?

redline racer510 · 11-24-2009, 08:30 PM

nobody knows or has experienced this problem
?

fcdrifter20 · 11-24-2009, 11:15 PM

check ur ingnition fuse

JDMwannaBE · 11-25-2009, 12:14 PM

when's the last time you did just a general tune up? how do your plugs look?

redline racer510 · 11-25-2009, 05:43 PM

well i replaced the plugs about 1000 miles ago with NGK's and today i replaced the cap and rotor which got me to start my car and drive it 10 miles or so but it still has trouble starting and it hesitates and sputters when i give it gas and also when im about to come to a stop. I am also getting a check engine light and the following codes:
13-coolant temp sensor
25-IACV
34-Knock Sensor
After installing the cap and rotor i reset the ecu and after starting the car back up it gives my a check engine light again. Do you think it can be the distributor itself because my ka has the internal coil not the external coil as in 91-94 240sx's?

SoguRacing · 11-25-2009, 06:09 PM

check the resistance of the ECT. clean out your iacv then go from there. reset the ECU.

redline racer510 · 11-25-2009, 06:43 PM

I replaced the plugs like 1000 miles ago (NGK) and just a few hours the cap and rotor and it got the started but gave me a check engine light so i reset the ecu but before doing so noted that i have a code for coolant temp sensor, IACV, knock sensor. After driving the car it has alot of hicups and when giving it gas it has some hesitation and when i come to a stop it sputters and i have to give it gas to keep it from diein(this is an auto btw). I think the next thing im going to change is probably the distributor itself.

redline racer510 · 11-25-2009, 06:45 PM

sorry but im not familiar with the synonym ect lol( i know its a newb thing )

hockeymikey16 · 11-25-2009, 11:15 PM

have you checked ANY of your vacuum lines?.. how exactly your car is acting up?

is it turning over? starting but the idle is abnormal?... my car had the sorta the same problem..

car died when i stop at the light, then i started it but it wouldnt hold idle. i had to push it home, it was a vicious vacuum leak thats why it couldnt hold the idle right... GL man

hockeymikey16 · 11-25-2009, 11:19 PM

try and open up your dizzy cap and take off your dizzy. and grab a wire brush and give it a good clean, not too much though you dont want to extend the gap.

clean the dizzy itself and the cap rotor from the terminal and the electrodes inside. or w/e u call them.

but yeah GL

roboticnissan · 11-25-2009, 11:35 PM

ustJustget a new motor

redline racer510 · 11-26-2009, 08:14 AM

lol, just get a new motor, i was thinkin bout that but its not an option right now do to financial issues and the budget i have to work with on this car. The thing that i am having right now is that it wont hold idle when i am parked and it hicups while im driving and when i give it gas it hesitates.

redline racer510 · 11-26-2009, 12:02 PM

im thinking it might be the distributor since the car didnt start until i replaced the cap and rotor and it still something to do with a weak spark. any input on this situation will be very much appreciated.

thank you...

redline racer510 · 11-26-2009, 06:47 PM

yea i just checked my ecu and the only codes i have are 13,34,98 two of which are ect related and one is knock sensor any input on this guys?

redline racer510 · 11-28-2009, 01:31 PM

i m changing the dizzy and the plug wires

redline racer510 · 11-29-2009, 10:07 AM

checked the resistance of the ect yesterday and it came out to around 2.4 ohms it say it should be around 2.1-2.9 at 68F yesterday was in the mid to high 50's so do you thing the ect is still good?

redline racer510 · 11-29-2009, 01:13 PM

i just installed the new distributor and i started it up to find that the car is running really wierd the idle goes up and down really fast and it shut off like 2-3 mins later and like a puff of smoke or something came out from under the intake manifold area. this car is really pissiong me off and i really need this to be runing reliably becuase i am starting a new job in a few days. any help guys?? I tried everything i have no clue what it is the last thing i have in id is to clean the iacvbut this thing looks like it would be a PITA to mess with.

11-24-2009, 04:48 PM	#1
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Car wont start I have 95 240sx (ka)I was driving normally and when i got to the stop light and my car hesitated and then just cut off. I tried starting it and it wouldnt start. I grabbed a pair of pliers and pulled out one of the spark plug wires and stuck the pliers inside and about 1/16 inch away from a chasis ground and noticed i wasnt getting any spark. My question is how often do the internal coils on a 95 KA go out and would you recommend changing the cap,rotor,plug wires before spending $200+ dollars on a brand new distributor?

11-25-2009, 12:14 PM	#4
JDMwannaBE Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: kentucky Age: 40 Posts: 330 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	when's the last time you did just a general tune up? how do your plugs look? __________________

11-25-2009, 06:09 PM	#6
SoguRacing Post Whore! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: (714) Age: 39 Posts: 2,967 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: SoguRacing Feedback Score: 23 reviews	check the resistance of the ECT. clean out your iacv then go from there. reset the ECU. __________________ Pre Tune Checkup! Compression,LeakDown,Vacuum Test $80. Cams Install: $180

11-25-2009, 11:35 PM	#11
roboticnissan Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: SOCAL/NORCAL Age: 36 Posts: 1,868 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	ustJustget a new motor __________________

11-24-2009, 08:30 PM	#2
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	nobody knows or has experienced this problem ?

11-24-2009, 11:15 PM	#3
fcdrifter20 Post Whore! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: riverside, ca Age: 37 Posts: 2,869 Trader Rating: (44) Feedback Score: 44 reviews	check ur ingnition fuse

11-25-2009, 05:43 PM	#5
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	well i replaced the plugs about 1000 miles ago with NGK's and today i replaced the cap and rotor which got me to start my car and drive it 10 miles or so but it still has trouble starting and it hesitates and sputters when i give it gas and also when im about to come to a stop. I am also getting a check engine light and the following codes: 13-coolant temp sensor 25-IACV 34-Knock Sensor After installing the cap and rotor i reset the ecu and after starting the car back up it gives my a check engine light again. Do you think it can be the distributor itself because my ka has the internal coil not the external coil as in 91-94 240sx's?

11-25-2009, 06:43 PM	#7
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I replaced the plugs like 1000 miles ago (NGK) and just a few hours the cap and rotor and it got the started but gave me a check engine light so i reset the ecu but before doing so noted that i have a code for coolant temp sensor, IACV, knock sensor. After driving the car it has alot of hicups and when giving it gas it has some hesitation and when i come to a stop it sputters and i have to give it gas to keep it from diein(this is an auto btw). I think the next thing im going to change is probably the distributor itself.

11-25-2009, 06:45 PM	#8
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	sorry but im not familiar with the synonym ect lol( i know its a newb thing )

11-25-2009, 11:15 PM	#9
hockeymikey16 BANNED Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: California Posts: 33 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	have you checked ANY of your vacuum lines?.. how exactly your car is acting up? is it turning over? starting but the idle is abnormal?... my car had the sorta the same problem.. car died when i stop at the light, then i started it but it wouldnt hold idle. i had to push it home, it was a vicious vacuum leak thats why it couldnt hold the idle right... GL man

11-25-2009, 11:19 PM	#10
hockeymikey16 BANNED Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: California Posts: 33 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	try and open up your dizzy cap and take off your dizzy. and grab a wire brush and give it a good clean, not too much though you dont want to extend the gap. clean the dizzy itself and the cap rotor from the terminal and the electrodes inside. or w/e u call them. but yeah GL

11-26-2009, 08:14 AM	#12
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	lol, just get a new motor, i was thinkin bout that but its not an option right now do to financial issues and the budget i have to work with on this car. The thing that i am having right now is that it wont hold idle when i am parked and it hicups while im driving and when i give it gas it hesitates.

11-26-2009, 12:02 PM	#13
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	im thinking it might be the distributor since the car didnt start until i replaced the cap and rotor and it still something to do with a weak spark. any input on this situation will be very much appreciated. thank you...

11-26-2009, 06:47 PM	#14
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	yea i just checked my ecu and the only codes i have are 13,34,98 two of which are ect related and one is knock sensor any input on this guys?

11-28-2009, 01:31 PM	#15
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	i m changing the dizzy and the plug wires

11-29-2009, 10:07 AM	#16
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	checked the resistance of the ect yesterday and it came out to around 2.4 ohms it say it should be around 2.1-2.9 at 68F yesterday was in the mid to high 50's so do you thing the ect is still good?

11-29-2009, 01:13 PM	#17
redline racer510 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: EARFF(earth for you idiots) Posts: 1,072 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	i just installed the new distributor and i started it up to find that the car is running really wierd the idle goes up and down really fast and it shut off like 2-3 mins later and like a puff of smoke or something came out from under the intake manifold area. this car is really pissiong me off and i really need this to be runing reliably becuase i am starting a new job in a few days. any help guys?? I tried everything i have no clue what it is the last thing i have in id is to clean the iacvbut this thing looks like it would be a PITA to mess with.