Link ECU Tech Reference Thread

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Which PlugIn ECU?
S13 CA13DET and S14 Zenki early models were 76 pin(S13Link). S14 SR Zenkis had a non "finned" casting / smooth casting on the front of the head.
SR Redtop / Blacktop SR20DET, most S14 and S15 SR20DET uses 64 pin (S15Link)
Package does come with a USB Tuning Cable.
Onboard CAN looking cable is ONLY for Tuning. Must get CAN-Lambda module to use Wideband or Dash output


A great great video series on just pure Linkecu setup.... Not tuning
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...1vpWUxhn5Z-x4Y

For anyone using the Link IAT, it comes in BSP, which sucks to work with here in the US.
So cheap alternative is to get this and cut 3/4 of the thread in the male section and screw it in. Most people gouge you for the 1/8" bsp bungs...
Master Airbrush Brand 1/4" BSP Male to 1/8" BSP Female Fitting Conversion Adapter, Connector for Airbrush Hoses and Compressors


Link Expansion loom for Plugin Sensors


PCB to CAN for Wideband or AIM Dash or Link Dash Output to go into ECU.... (Required)


CAN Female plug to go from PCB to PCBCAN to CANF to (Wideband or Dash)


Link Can-Lambda Package with Bosch sensor
https://linkecu.com/documentation/canlambda.pdf
I DID have to use the alternate wiring with the 22uF resistor.
Its ok on driving but when you pushing HP, the voltage gets unstable regardless.


Rife HI AT Sensor Cal Sheet


Rife LO AT Sensor Cal Sheet


Bosch Temp / Pressure Sensor

[slider2828]

Reserve 2nd post for more

Injectors ID1050x is what I used. Here are the deadtimes. (Master fuel around 7ms to get it started)
https://help.injectordynamics.com/su...ine-management

Trigger offset needs to be set to -100 in the LinkECU software to get it started as well if mechanical base timing set correctly. If it doesn't start increase the time like -90, if it still doesn't start, keep change it by 10 to see if you get closer

UPDATED**** The DIYAutotune Wheel doesn't work on the Linkecu.... It doesn't have the right trigger 1 and trigger 2 signal.
I will need to try the AEM one to see if it is compatible.
Is it plug and play?

*****Update Final********
AEM Wheel does work. There are 2 types of 24-1. One is for the RB and the other is SR/KA. SR/KA Part #30-8760, RB is Part #30-8761

Yes its plug and play. Just open up the distributor / CAS and replace the wheel, its just 1 screw.

Then in the software select the new trigger wheel with the correct pickup points

Add Trigger Setup Table in PCLink Software. The below setup table is most correct except trigger #2 in the picture should be rising not falling.

Once installed you will need to do the same thing with trigger offset setup. Mine happen to be 0 but I started dialing from -100 to -40 and it got close and ended up 0 with a timing light.

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ALL Temp Sensor Setup.

AN TEMP connections on LINK ECU Harness 1 (ANTEMP3,ANTEMP4) already have pull-up sensor built in.
If you need to add another temp sensor to the AUX Cable, you need to wire a 1k ohm pull up resistor like below for it to work.
(Pressure sensor no need for pull-up resistor




Summit wiring DT Wiring kit.... Best deal I can find...

DTM vs DT vs DTP info
Deutsch DTM Series:
This size 20 connector will accommodate wire sizes from 22-16 gauge depending on which contact is used. DTM connectors come in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12 pin configurations. The maximum current (amp) draw on each pin would be 7.5 amps continuously.

Deutsch DT Series:
This size 16 connector will accommodate wire sizes from 20-14 gauge depending on which contact is used.. DT connectors come in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12 pin configurations. The maximum current (amp) draw on each pin would be 13 amps continuously.

Deutsch DTP Series:
This size 12 connectors will accommodate wire from 14-10 gauge depending on which contact is used. DTP connectors are only available in 2 and 4 pin configurations. The maximum current (amp) draw on each pin would be 25 amps continuously.

Now that we have some basic knowledge on the Deutsch DT family of connectors, Lets take a quick look at the contacts or as most people call the “terminals”.

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Evans Academy Link ECU Closed Loop Boost Control Setup




Evans Academy Link ECU Open Loop Boost Control Setup

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Evans Academy Closed Loop Lambda control to see Target vs Actual AFR

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Digital Dashes....

I like PowerTune and have been eyeing them for almost 5 years now....
I will need GPS receiver because I am on CD009 so going to use that for Speedo...
Completely tunable and very easy to work with from what I can see..

Someone tell me about AIM dashes or Links Dashes... Never used them before.

[PoorMans180SX]

I always use www.deutschconnectorstore.com or prowireusa.com for my individual Deutsch connector needs. I always feel like I've wasted money when I have those connector kits sitting around with unused pieces haha.

The 12-tooth trigger is plug and play, you simply change the trigger pattern in the ECU software and you're good to go.

A crank angle sensor is also a nice addition if you have the coin for an ATI or Ross balancer. There are a couple kits on the market. Cars making big power could use the extra accuracy I'd say.

[TheRealSy90]

Could also ditch the CAS entirely and do a hall effect sensor on the exhaust cam from Mazworks or Taarks/EFI Solutions.

If one were to buy everything from Link, wouldn't it already be wired with the appropriate plugs? I assumed modules and harnesses would be plug in ready and not need deutsch plugs wired on.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Could also ditch the CAS entirely and do a hall effect sensor on the exhaust cam from Mazworks or Taarks/EFI Solutions.

If one were to buy everything from Link, wouldn't it already be wired with the appropriate plugs? I assumed modules and harnesses would be plug in ready and not need deutsch plugs wired on.

Its just plug and play on one end. It does come with everything.... But in case you want a disconnect on ecu side or soemthing...

That is a $500 kit to go to Hall Sensor and some people had trouble getting the calibration correct... Just trying to make 400+whp.... nothing big...

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Could also ditch the CAS entirely and do a hall effect sensor on the exhaust cam from Mazworks or Taarks/EFI Solutions.

If one were to buy everything from Link, wouldn't it already be wired with the appropriate plugs? I assumed modules and harnesses would be plug in ready and not need deutsch plugs wired on.

If you're adding sensors (fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, etc) via the expansion connector, then no. You have to run the expansion harness to wherever you want the sensor to go and crimp your terminals onto the appropriate wires. I'll show you exactly what I'm talking about when I get the ECU.

The expansion harness plugs in inside the ecu case, so if for some reason you want to disconnect things, it's easier to wire in a connector on the pigtail than to take the ecu case apart.

Originally Posted by slider2828

Its just plug and play on one end. It does come with everything.... But in case you want a disconnect on ecu side or soemthing...

That is a $500 kit to go to Hall Sensor and some people had trouble getting the calibration correct... Just trying to make 400+whp.... nothing big...

Does anyone know if CAN is just 2 wires? CAN HI and LO.... I bought the AFR kit, but it doesn't come with the can harness to ecu...

Yes, CAN is just can high and can low. Twist the pair and use a 120ohm terminating resistor at the connection. This is how I wire in the AEM wideband.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Its just plug and play on one end. It does come with everything.... But in case you want a disconnect on ecu side or soemthing...

That is a $500 kit to go to Hall Sensor and some people had trouble getting the calibration correct... Just trying to make 400+whp.... nothing big...

I guess I don't really see how horsepower applies to the quality of the crank/cam timing signals. It's going to rev the same range at 200hp or 500hp.

Same could be said for a $500 rom tune ecu or a couple thousand on a standalone and sensors. Could make 400 on a rom tune lol.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

If you're adding sensors (fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, etc) via the expansion connector, then no. You have to run the expansion harness to wherever you want the sensor to go and crimp your terminals onto the appropriate wires. I'll show you exactly what I'm talking about when I get the ECU.

The expansion harness plugs in inside the ecu case, so if for some reason you want to disconnect things, it's easier to wire in a connector on the pigtail than to take the ecu case apart.



Yes, CAN is just can high and can low. Twist the pair and use a 120ohm terminating resistor at the connection. This is how I wire in the AEM wideband.

How many plugs are available on the expansion harness? How many things can communicate over CANBus and free up expansion plugs?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

I guess I don't really see how horsepower applies to the quality of the crank/cam timing signals. It's going to rev the same range at 200hp or 500hp.

Same could be said for a $500 rom tune ecu or a couple thousand on a standalone and sensors. Could make 400 on a rom tune lol.

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

How many plugs are available on the expansion harness? How many things can communicate over CANBus and free up expansion plugs?

Higher horsepower cars not only move through the rev range faster and possibly rev higher, but they also have larger camshafts which can affect timing drift. Adding a crankshaft sensor eliminates the variability of the timing chain and also provides a true sync signal.

The S13link has two expansion connector slots.
One includes:
3 digital inputs
1 Analog voltage input
2 temperature sensor inputs
a +5v sensor supply
and sensor ground
The other:
4 auxilary outputs
and 4 analog voltage inputs

So technically you can add two temp sensors, five pressure or position sensors, three digital inputs (hall effect sensors, etc), and four auxilary outputs (injectors, solenoids, etc). Bear in mind that the MAF sensor already accounts for your IAT and MAP sensor as both of those can be spliced in there. It also has an onboard 4 bar MAP.

The S15Link also has two expansion connectors, but they're slightly different but I don't feel like typing it out.

Canbus is only limited by the overall length of the wires really. The only things I know of that can use canbus currently are PDM's, AEM wideband controllers/gauges, and digital dashes. Maybe there are other things I'm not thinking of.

[RalliartRsX]

Real dont take offense, but you are truly showing your ignorance on the topic lol

Timing is key to any high horsepower car. Asl 600+who skylines and timing belt slip how they feel about accuracy in timing measurements.....

How do you think E85 makes.power? Timing. Improper timing measurements (ala shitty crank and cam.signal) and you go from making gobs of power, to a car with a glowing exhaust mani and a blown turbo at idle...

So yeah, accurate timing is key

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

If you're adding sensors (fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, etc) via the expansion connector, then no. You have to run the expansion harness to wherever you want the sensor to go and crimp your terminals onto the appropriate wires. I'll show you exactly what I'm talking about when I get the ECU.

The expansion harness plugs in inside the ecu case, so if for some reason you want to disconnect things, it's easier to wire in a connector on the pigtail than to take the ecu case apart.



Yes, CAN is just can high and can low. Twist the pair and use a 120ohm terminating resistor at the connection. This is how I wire in the AEM wideband.

So in order to terminate it I gotta put the 120Ohm resistor across the pair or in line with one of the CAN HI or CAN LO wire?

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Real dont take offense, but you are truly showing your ignorance on the topic lol

Timing is key to any high horsepower car. Asl 600+who skylines and timing belt slip how they feel about accuracy in timing measurements.....

How do you think E85 makes.power? Timing. Improper timing measurements (ala shitty crank and cam.signal) and you go from making gobs of power, to a car with a glowing exhaust mani and a blown turbo at idle...

So yeah, accurate timing is key

So wouldn't you want an even more accurate/higher resolution cam trigger wheel instead of lowering the resolution with a different trigger disc?

[RalliartRsX]

That's not how it works unfortunately

Inflating trigger teeth count does not automatically correlate to a more accurate trigger pickup signal. There is a point of diminishing returns at some point as it is heavily dependent on pickup type (optical, hall, VR, etc). Also in RBs, as you start to add more aggressive cams, the valve closing events can cause the CAS to pickup up inaccurate readings as the resolution is so high, there is zero tolerance to allow for such aggressive valve actuation (example steep.raamp angles cause all sorts of valve train harmonics which wreaks havoc on the OEM optical Nidsan CAS. SRs are less prone due to the timing chain but does occur as you naturally have timing chain stretch the more aggressive cams you go.

Again, there is a reason a 12+1 with a hall pickup is a fairly prolific trigger wheel config. its robust, if shielde and is fairly unaffected by "noise" interference , and is overall a fairly easy sensor/trigger combo to manufacturer.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by slider2828

So in order to terminate it I gotta put the 120Ohm resistor across the pair or in line with one of the CAN HI or CAN LO wire?

Across the terminals. Pro tip: If using a DTM connector, slide the wires through the seal, crimp the resistor in the terminals with the wires, and then slide everything in the connector housing. All sealed up!

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Across the terminals. Pro tip: If using a DTM connector, slide the wires through the seal, crimp the resistor in the terminals with the wires, and then slide everything in the connector housing. All sealed up!

Thanks man... I just saw a video on can bus termination... Just crimp the leads to it... Cool....

I forgot to buy PCB to CAN and CAN Female.... Is that what you need to buy too?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Thanks man... I just saw a video on can bus termination... Just crimp the leads to it... Cool....

I forgot to buy PCB to CAN and CAN Female.... Is that what you need to buy too?

I convert their CAN cables to DTM connectors. That way I can just run the length I need to run, and it keeps it neat.
But yeah it looks like there?s a separate plug on the board for their CAN communication, so you?ll need one for that.

[slider2828]

So annoying.... yeah i will need to get the pcb connector....

Are you just twisting the can hi can lo cables and leave power ground straight?

[PoorMans180SX]

I twist them just for neatness sake. Easier to run than individual wires.

[slider2828]

Hey Guys, with 2 really young kids and just work in general its really taken a lot longer than I thought.

So if you guys are interested I can post up all the measurements and you can assemble yourself.

2 Things that I learned. I cut this with a hand hackzall and really you cant cut 8in straight and square. Just 0 possibility. Its garbage, so this is just POC.

So I will be picking up a small table saw.

Another thing, use cast acrylic at least 1/8" thick, else its just way too flexible. I used 1/4" thick, so it looks like its going to be near bullet proof.

I am still looking at what glue to use to make it more water proof, but I guess if I use enough epoxy and clamp it, it will work. As per the ECU port being completely water proof, I might use just nice weather stripping.

If you want to order everything precut, its like 70 bux from tap plastic..... and then just drill a few wholes and screws and be done.

2 canbux, 2 expansion looms and canbus ecu port. all installed

[Simon_Ru]

What's the point of making it waterproof? Under hood installation? Harness connector to ECU isn't itself waterproof.

[slider2828]

Totally agree... haha if your ecu is in water that high, you have other problems hahaha...

[RalliartRsX]

Doesn't the ECU need tobe able to also shed heat regardless of being water tight??

[e1_griego]

I bought a Stanza ecu case for mine for $12 shipped on Ebay.

I have pretty much filled up both expansion plugs -- if I were to do it again I'd probably buy a wire-in version instead of PnP, to be honest. More places to add things.

I also put a G4X in my 1997 Miata a couple months ago. Big fan of these things.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Doesn't the ECU need tobe able to also shed heat regardless of being water tight??

I doubt it, its just a metal box. If you want to heat shield it you can always just use heat reflective tape.... I doubt it

Originally Posted by e1_griego

I bought a Stanza ecu case for mine for $12 shipped on Ebay.

I have pretty much filled up both expansion plugs -- if I were to do it again I'd probably buy a wire-in version instead of PnP, to be honest. More places to add things.

I also put a G4X in my 1997 Miata a couple months ago. Big fan of these things.

Is there more slots? Or you talking about the G4+ Thunder which does have more G4X all have 16 total?

[e1_griego]

Yeah, one of the higher wire-in models.

I've added fuel pressure and oil pressure sensors/failsafes, wiring for flexfuel sensor (though not installed yet), wideband, CANgauge (which is basically mini CAN dash). Boost control is on the maf circuit right now, and I also have wired in DBW (so pedal input and throttle body output -- also not hooked up yet). I'm sure I'm forgetting something.

Either way, would have been cleaner to run an adapter harness rather than all the extra things off the expansion plugs. Doesn't matter, though, I'll stick with this thing for a number of years I'm sure.

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by slider2828

I doubt it, its just a metal box. If you want to heat shield it you can always just use heat reflective tape.... I doubt it



Is there more slots? Or you talking about the G4+ Thunder which does have more G4X all have 16 total?

Errr, not talking about protecting it.

I am talking about the ECU itself (and all those electrons) generating heat as it operates and needing to pump that heat somewhere

However, I guess watertight doesn't necessarily mean air tight lol