Window Motor amps/ General Help - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

s13dan · 02-08-2010, 07:33 PM

My passenger side window recently ceased to operate in any way. It will not go up or down. I tried the amplifier first, took it apart and it looks fine then decided to remove the window, motor and regulator... What a bitch.. seriously not cool.When i tested it in the car it wouldnt move..
Now its out and i tested the motor and it works at 15 amps on a 12 volt system but not at anything lower. I dunno what the stock amperage is and dont want to put it back in the car without knowing it will work properly.Im going through some hard times and cant just buy a new assembly. Im terrible with electrical shit any criticizing or pointers would be appreciated.

s13dan · 02-08-2010, 09:30 PM

I am still messing with this... but from what i can tell both my switches did go bad at the same time, somehow....

FYI anyone doing a window motor and regulator, a second set of hands is GREAT and you might need to pry at your door a little to clear the entire assembly. Just be careful and all is well.I was doing this by myself in a damn blizzard so it can be done alone it just sucks.

evo_eater · 02-08-2010, 10:47 PM

lol ^ i agree it is alot easier with a extra set of hands. i had this same problem, but it was my driverside window. i thought it was the motor but when i pulled it out it was still good, and it ended up being my window amp, which had gotten a little water or something in it. there is a guy on ebay that sells them for $35 shipped and the 180sx, s13, and s14 all are the same but the black ones have better mounting brackets. hope this helps some.

coww-cho!!!!! · 02-08-2010, 10:51 PM

did you check the solder joints to see if they are somewhat burnt?
theres a write up here on it
at 240sxtech.com

evo_eater · 02-08-2010, 10:57 PM

yeah thats whatt happened to mine the solder joints were coroded

Iron_Zenki · 02-08-2010, 11:03 PM

Had the same issue with mine first the passenger window then the drivers looked it up on zilvia and ended up taking my amp apart it clicked still and did not have a burn any were so then decided to test my window motors they are both fine just bought a new amp they work fine :] I have about 3 amps (good ones) in my house now in case this happens again

evo_eater · 02-08-2010, 11:54 PM

lol i took one out of my s13 that i barely even drive anyways, until my other one gets here

projectRDM · 02-09-2010, 03:18 AM

To begin with, a search would have yielded the first thing you need to know here, the amplifier drives the driverside power window only. If your passenger side window does not work, the amplifier has absolutely nothing to do with it. The circuit goes from the driverside master switch through the sub switch (passenger) to the motor. If the passenger side does not work it's generally the master switch or the motor. The sub switch simply provides a jumper for the circuit path. The amplifier again does nothing to control the passenger side, the FSM clearly shows this in the schematics.

When removing the regulator, you don't need extra hands. Simply remove the belt moulding and you have all the clearance in the world to lift both the glass, then the regulator right out of the door. It's only one screw. Much easier than trying to pry the door back and possibly damage the moulding.

s13dan · 02-09-2010, 11:35 AM

Thank You
That woulda helped, i couldnt find a wiring diagram!And I couldnt find a damn FSM (that was free)either?? Zilvia search and google IDK guess im stupid. Archive right?

I did remove the molding, the window was stuck halfway down, hence why i was in need of assitance fixing it, as it has been snowing here for almost two days. Putting it back in at the full top position was way easier.

So if i have no power going to the passenger window, its in the wiring or the master switch. Ill try to borrow a friends switch and see what happneds.

JAYTRON · 02-09-2010, 03:35 PM

Just curious about the window amp, but could it drain one's battery?

My battery is getting drained really bad from something and it's been a pain to track down what where the source is.

My driver side window goes down really fucking slow too, and when I traded amps with a friend mine didn't even work for him.

projectRDM · 02-09-2010, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAYTRON

Just curious about the window amp, but could it drain one's battery?

My battery is getting drained really bad from something and it's been a pain to track down what where the source is.

My driver side window goes down really fucking slow too, and when I traded amps with a friend mine didn't even work for him.

No. The power to the amp is provided through a circuit breaker that is powered through the ignition relay. Unless that relay itself is sticking there is no power when the key is off.

Jung2 · 02-19-2010, 07:13 PM

I'm having the same problem. I know both my window motor works. I bought new master switch and window Amplifier. My Driver window goes down and the motor becomes hot. My Driver window does not work at all. All I hear is clicking sound from tha amp then the driver window goes down when ever I turn the key on. What else am I missing?

Jung2 · 02-20-2010, 12:50 AM

Update- I got my passenger side working. Now it's just the driver side that won't go up. I have to manually connect the motor to the battery to bring it up.

Here is my situation whenever I turn the key to on, the window will automatically go down without pressing the switch. There is continues power to the motor and it's causing my motor to heat up. Is there something else that I might have over looked?

Again my master switch is new, my amp is fairly new and motor is working condition.

02-08-2010, 07:33 PM	#1
s13dan Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Springfield, Mo Posts: 1,519 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Window Motor amps/ General Help My passenger side window recently ceased to operate in any way. It will not go up or down. I tried the amplifier first, took it apart and it looks fine then decided to remove the window, motor and regulator... What a bitch.. seriously not cool.When i tested it in the car it wouldnt move.. Now its out and i tested the motor and it works at 15 amps on a 12 volt system but not at anything lower. I dunno what the stock amperage is and dont want to put it back in the car without knowing it will work properly.Im going through some hard times and cant just buy a new assembly. Im terrible with electrical shit any criticizing or pointers would be appreciated. __________________ 89 240sx hatch #933-the hot rod 91 240sx coupe #131,603-the daily

02-08-2010, 09:30 PM	#2
s13dan Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Springfield, Mo Posts: 1,519 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	I am still messing with this... but from what i can tell both my switches did go bad at the same time, somehow.... FYI anyone doing a window motor and regulator, a second set of hands is GREAT and you might need to pry at your door a little to clear the entire assembly. Just be careful and all is well.I was doing this by myself in a damn blizzard so it can be done alone it just sucks. __________________ 89 240sx hatch #933-the hot rod 91 240sx coupe #131,603-the daily

02-08-2010, 10:51 PM	#4
coww-cho!!!!! Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: I.E. triiiick Age: 37 Posts: 1,001 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	did you check the solder joints to see if they are somewhat burnt? theres a write up here on it at 240sxtech.com __________________ CoUpe LOve #3

02-09-2010, 03:18 AM	#8
projectRDM Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atlanta Age: 51 Posts: 13,812 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	To begin with, a search would have yielded the first thing you need to know here, the amplifier drives the driverside power window only. If your passenger side window does not work, the amplifier has absolutely nothing to do with it. The circuit goes from the driverside master switch through the sub switch (passenger) to the motor. If the passenger side does not work it's generally the master switch or the motor. The sub switch simply provides a jumper for the circuit path. The amplifier again does nothing to control the passenger side, the FSM clearly shows this in the schematics. When removing the regulator, you don't need extra hands. Simply remove the belt moulding and you have all the clearance in the world to lift both the glass, then the regulator right out of the door. It's only one screw. Much easier than trying to pry the door back and possibly damage the moulding. __________________ FORMERLY R240NA Learn what's really going on and protect your assets now before they're gone forever: www.paypalsucks.com

02-09-2010, 11:35 AM	#9
s13dan Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Springfield, Mo Posts: 1,519 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Thank You That woulda helped, i couldnt find a wiring diagram!And I couldnt find a damn FSM (that was free)either?? Zilvia search and google IDK guess im stupid. Archive right? I did remove the molding, the window was stuck halfway down, hence why i was in need of assitance fixing it, as it has been snowing here for almost two days. Putting it back in at the full top position was way easier. So if i have no power going to the passenger window, its in the wiring or the master switch. Ill try to borrow a friends switch and see what happneds. __________________ 89 240sx hatch #933-the hot rod 91 240sx coupe #131,603-the daily

02-08-2010, 10:47 PM	#3
evo_eater BANNED Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: SD Posts: 16 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	lol ^ i agree it is alot easier with a extra set of hands. i had this same problem, but it was my driverside window. i thought it was the motor but when i pulled it out it was still good, and it ended up being my window amp, which had gotten a little water or something in it. there is a guy on ebay that sells them for $35 shipped and the 180sx, s13, and s14 all are the same but the black ones have better mounting brackets. hope this helps some.

02-08-2010, 10:57 PM	#5
evo_eater BANNED Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: SD Posts: 16 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	yeah thats whatt happened to mine the solder joints were coroded

02-08-2010, 11:03 PM	#6
Iron_Zenki Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Murrieta Age: 35 Posts: 360 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Had the same issue with mine first the passenger window then the drivers looked it up on zilvia and ended up taking my amp apart it clicked still and did not have a burn any were so then decided to test my window motors they are both fine just bought a new amp they work fine :] I have about 3 amps (good ones) in my house now in case this happens again

02-08-2010, 11:54 PM	#7
evo_eater BANNED Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: SD Posts: 16 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	lol i took one out of my s13 that i barely even drive anyways, until my other one gets here

02-09-2010, 03:35 PM	#10
JAYTRON Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: SAN FRANCISCO, CA Age: 36 Posts: 295 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Just curious about the window amp, but could it drain one's battery? My battery is getting drained really bad from something and it's been a pain to track down what where the source is. My driver side window goes down really fucking slow too, and when I traded amps with a friend mine didn't even work for him.

02-19-2010, 07:13 PM	#12
Jung2 Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Earth Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I'm having the same problem. I know both my window motor works. I bought new master switch and window Amplifier. My Driver window goes down and the motor becomes hot. My Driver window does not work at all. All I hear is clicking sound from tha amp then the driver window goes down when ever I turn the key on. What else am I missing?

02-20-2010, 12:50 AM	#13
Jung2 Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Earth Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Update- I got my passenger side working. Now it's just the driver side that won't go up. I have to manually connect the motor to the battery to bring it up. Here is my situation whenever I turn the key to on, the window will automatically go down without pressing the switch. There is continues power to the motor and it's causing my motor to heat up. Is there something else that I might have over looked? Again my master switch is new, my amp is fairly new and motor is working condition.