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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
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Do I need to press in the sub bushings on the S14?
I have purchased the energy suspension bushings for the subframe on the S14. Do these 4 bushings need to be pressed in??
Any special tools needed, besides saw-zall, torch, breaker bar???
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#2 |
Nissanaholic!
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Aw man you are in for a treat.
If you bought actual bushings, and not just spacers, you need to drop the entire subframe. Then you need to remove the old bushings....have fun with that.
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#3 |
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If you bought the subframe bushings for the s14, all you need to do is grind out the old rubber and install the energy bushing. You can leave the metal collar in there.
If you bought z32 bushings, I think you have to cut out the metal collar.
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#4 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Don't take out the metal sleeves with these. Here are the instructions:
http://www.energysuspension.com/asse.../pdf/17486.PDF I still need to install this set in my car. Go to energysuspensionparts.com for more installation instructions if needed. |
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#5 |
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You certainly need to remove the inner metal retainer, as well as the first metal sleeve before installation
here is what you should see (from the top) in regard to whats left before using ES bushings. You want to leave the bottom 'flange' as well when installating them. ![]()
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#6 | |
Nissanaholic!
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Quote:
Not on these revised version specifically for the s14. When the s14 kit wasn't available, everyone bought 300zx subframe bushings and you do have to cut out the metal sleeve before installing those.
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#7 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Damn, click the link I provided. THATS HOW ENERGY SUSPENSION WANTS IT DONE. They should know the product the made, and if they provided instructions, I'm sure a reputable company like that is correct.
Inner sleeve comes out, outer sleeve stays in. Don't bend the tabs. |
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#8 | |
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Quote:
went in almost half way just by hand. for the remainder i wiggled them in by putting the center metal sleeve in, jamming a breaker bar in there and then bending it back and forth slightly while pushing it down. i'm sure you could beat it in with a hammer if you wanted to. get new diff bushings while you're at it. with the subframe off its the perfect time do it. those will need to be pressed in. i used a balljoint press clamp thing. |
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#10 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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What diff bushings did you use and how is road noise/harness with the new stuff? I want NISMO Differential bushings but don't know where to get them/where they're in stock.
Has anyone zerked the subframe? The poly bushings need lubricant. |
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#11 |
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i have the energy suspension diff bushings for my s14 and i havent felt any extra vibrations from stock, i had a shop install mine, the bushings on the sides of the diff had 2 be pressed out and the ones in the subframe had to be cut out
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#12 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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if your gonna change the bushings, and have plans on replacing or upgrading the diff save your self some time and do it all in one shot.
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#13 |
Zilvia Member
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im in the proses of installing the energy pinapple bushing they went in easy but they are not flush with the subframe they are sticking out a lot. let me know if you have the same problem or if this is normal thanks.
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#14 | |
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Quote:
I decided to be badass and go with SPL SOLID Aluminum differential bushings. Seeing that every other (almost) suspension piece on my car was already solid-endlink type, the noise did not go up dramatically.
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#15 | |
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i have had spl solid bushings and now have nismo bushings. the spl solids were noisy but very tolerable. i could hear gear whine from diff. sometimes a notch sound when you shift gears. not the same as clunk from a bad bushing crap clunk; i could hear it just shifting through the gears with the car off and parked. overall it's very streetable; no big deal. the nismo bushings honestly feel like stock. i don't hear shit. but perhaps someone who goes from oem to nismo will feel different. |
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#16 |
Leaky Injector
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Alot of mixed reviews here! LOL. I will follow the ES instructions.
Here is what I purchased. Part Number: 7.1117 > Product Name: Subframe Bushings Set > Quantity: 1 > Unit Price: $27.17 > > > > Color : Black
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#19 | |
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Could you get away with simply burning out the rubber and the metal middle tube...and then lubeing it way up and then hammer it home? Maybe.....trust me, I contemplated doing just that. Instead I just tookapart a hacksaw, reassembled it with the blade through the 'cup' and carefully cut out that last sleeve. Once you make the initial cut it is easily pried out. COuld have I used a sawzall or air saw? Sure...but I wasn't sure how thin the material was and decided to play it safe.
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#20 | |
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Quote:
I opted to remove some material on top in order to gain some better roll correction. Don't forget to remove the same amount of material from the inner metal sleeve with well. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#22 | |
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Quote:
Here is what I used: http://www.energysuspension.com/asse.../pdf/17486.PDF
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#23 |
Leaky Injector
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Ok, I just installed the new bushings. Do I need to put in some spacers on the L bracket for the subframe????
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![]() Last edited by Debo; 03-30-2010 at 09:26 PM.. |
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