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Old 06-10-2010, 09:01 PM   #1
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installing new oil pump on sr20

ok so i need to re-do my timing chain and while im at it im putting in a new oil pump, i was wondering, in order to get both the upper and lower oil pan off, would you be able to just unbolt the motor mounts and hoist the engine up as high as it will go without hitting the firewall?

i don't want to drop the cross member. but if i have too, i will
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Old 06-10-2010, 09:13 PM   #2
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yup. Unbolt motor AND tranny mount and lift with engine hoist. Tilt tranny while pulling out, and done.
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:49 PM   #3
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^ I think he's asking if you can just lift it high enough to get the pans off... not pull the engine/tranny.

Believe it or not you can actually get the oil pump/timing cover off without removing the upper pan but the problem is that you'll never get it back on, and sealed without removing the upper pan.


I bet you could lift it up high enough to get the upper pan off. I did the same thing on my KA, although it only one pan, its huge and you need to do the same thing to get it out.

GL, its a bitch of a job.
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:03 PM   #4
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Just pull the engine, With the tranny still bolted up you might have issues pulling the upper pan.

Plus you'll have way more room and line of sight to do the job.

I did it on an S13 KA and it was a bitch.
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:05 PM   #5
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is that the easiest way? to just pull the motor?! god damn, one hell of a job for an oil pump/timing chain job.. damnit
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:07 PM   #6
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is that the easiest way? to just pull the motor?! god damn, one hell of a job for an oil pump/timing chain job.. damnit

Pullin the engine aint hard, for raising it up you "should" be disconecting almost everything either way, so you might as well pull the Engine.
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:19 PM   #7
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is that the easiest way? to just pull the motor?! god damn, one hell of a job for an oil pump/timing chain job.. damnit
yeah its a bitch.... Plus it would be a pain to set up the chain and seat the cover correctly while leaning over the core support.
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Old 06-11-2010, 02:35 PM   #8
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Its not hard at all taking out the motor. Better to take it out and make it easy on yourself. It will be a pita trying to work with the car just raised a bit.

Also while you're at it, if you have not done rear main seal, might as well do it imo. You got the engine out so might as well do it all in one time.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:51 AM   #9
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i have done it with the motor hanging above the x-member... not recommended though. much easier to just pull the whole thing.
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Old 06-19-2010, 06:22 AM   #10
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kk i just pulled the whole motor, is there a certain way to prime the new oil pump?
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Old 06-19-2010, 07:22 AM   #11
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pack it with assembly lube..
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Old 06-19-2010, 01:11 PM   #12
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kk i just pulled the whole motor, is there a certain way to prime the new oil pump?
If using new filter, fill oil filter with oil,
Pull the CAS plug, open up Oil Fill cap crank engine for 10 seconds (wait 20 sec) repeat until oil squirts from cam squirters
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Old 06-19-2010, 01:51 PM   #13
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Since you have it out now would be the best time to swap for a more reliable and powerful LSX motor of your choice.
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Old 06-19-2010, 06:04 PM   #14
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Since you have it out now would be the best time to swap for a more reliable and powerful LSX motor of your choice.
Wow kid you need to STFU about all these LSX shit posts.
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Old 06-19-2010, 06:21 PM   #15
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^^ If everyone said that everytime there was an LSX threadjack I would quit.
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Old 06-19-2010, 06:32 PM   #16
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^^ If everyone said that everytime there was an LSX threadjack I would quit.
Take two weeks off.
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:53 PM   #17
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If you are trying to do this job, with a stock headgasket on the car still, you are undoubtedly going to ruin it, and have the front cover leak forever. Heck even with an MLS gasket, it will leak as you'll push all the sillicone out when trying to install it with the head on.

The right way would be to take the head off, and the lower pan. Could you get by with leaving head on? Sure...but again, reference what i said/posted above.
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Old 06-24-2010, 02:07 AM   #18
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ok well, i have an apex headgasket, what if i take the head off, am i able to re-use the gasket or do i have to buy a new one?

if i do pull off the head, im slappin on some APR studs.
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Old 06-24-2010, 08:40 AM   #19
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ARP's would certainly be a sound choice especially if you're running some increased boost/power

The ApexI will certainly be able to be reused too. Remember, increments of 10 ft lbs in OEM pattern, to a total of 85 ft lbs (and use lube)
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:11 AM   #20
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alright sweet!

use lube on the head gasket?
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Old 06-24-2010, 02:11 PM   #21
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i must of lubed up my rear main oil seal too well? i tapped it in and it all of a sudden slid in, is this ok?


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Old 06-24-2010, 03:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
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alright sweet!

use lube on the head gasket?
Lube on the ARP studs that is when you install them, not on the headgasket itself.

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i must of lubed up my rear main oil seal too well? i tapped it in and it all of a sudden slid in, is this ok?
As long as the seal didn't go into the rear main housing beyond the stops in the cast piece, you're ok. You just want it to seal against the end of the crank that's the main thing, so as long as it's still in the housing you're ok
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:23 PM   #23
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