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Old 03-26-2008, 07:38 PM   #1
Enjin
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COMPLETELY removing A/C from the car...

so I am building this car for track and occasional weekend/rain driving

the dash is out, and the previous owner deleted a lot of the a/c stuff. my question is: the black box between the heater core and the blower... I assume that is for the a/c. i have consulted the fsm, and would also like to ask you guys:

1) can I just hollow this out to use it as ducting considering there will be no cold air flowing through it?

2) can I delete all associated wiring?

thanks
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Old 03-26-2008, 07:52 PM   #2
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i recently removed all my HVAC system. y would u want to use it as ducting? i just ripped out everythang.

4 the wires i left mine in just 2 not cause no problems with wiring. im asuming u want them out 2 simplify things. because taking them out would take a whole .1 lbs of weight out

GL with the ride
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:35 PM   #3
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You can remove the "ac thingy" behind the dash. I am pretty sure its called a accumulator, but not 100%. Anyway, i am doing that, putting the plastics back together for the heater. (to stay "street legal")

you can remove the wiring to the ac. To completely remove it you would have to pull apart the wireloom and cut out the wire and re-solder the connections with the wiring. ALOT of work for minimal W.R..
Good luck.
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:25 PM   #4
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well I am attempting to do standalone wiring (involves lots of praying and reading of the fsm)

the reason I would use it as ducting is because it connects the blower motor and the heater core. I would like to keep my dash nice and defrosted during those wonderful rainy day sideways commutes :-P
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:27 PM   #5
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you have to keep the box betweent the blower motor and the heater core. Otherwise you will have no heat. Just pull the box out of the car, it comes a part, pull out the A/C guts, cap the 2 holes and re-install. Unless you can find the duct that connects the 2 that came in the NON A/C 240's, but good luck with that.
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:30 PM   #6
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o nice. let me know how that works for ya. I have thought about that. I bet you could probably drop quite a few lbs doing it.
(sidemarker wiring, ac wiring, airbags wiring, emissions shit wiring)
probably be quite a bit..
if you do and it succeeds post up a how to write up. I am sure tons of people have thought about it.
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:31 PM   #7
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Replace it with the non-AC box from a 240 that came without AC. Thats what I did.

Its not really a box, more like a duct. Much much lighter.
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:31 PM   #8
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Let me know if you need any parts or help David, remember your just down the street from me. lol

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Old 03-26-2008, 09:34 PM   #9
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duct in question, out of the S14 FSM, but I'm sure the S13 one is damn near identical.

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Old 03-26-2008, 09:38 PM   #10
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^Looks like the one on my S13 to me.
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:52 PM   #11
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Does anybody have one of those ducts? The one from a NON a.c s14? OR does one from a s14 fit? i wouldnt mind havin one..
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:15 PM   #12
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save yourself the $ and just gut the box and re-use it. you can always put it back together if you want to re-install your a/c
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
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save yourself the $ and just gut the box and re-use it. you can always put it back together if you want to re-install your a/c
i wont need to. As its mostly going to be a track car. I am keeping the heater for rainy days. And being it lighter to use the other duct..
why not go with that? Then i can sell the whole ac system as a complete kit..
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:33 PM   #14
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weight savings is minimal, but selling it for $ makes perfect sense. back to topic.
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khilgers View Post
duct in question, out of the S14 FSM, but I'm sure the S13 one is damn near identical.

yeah this is exactly the same on the s13... and that is what I'll do, gut it, seal the holes, and reinstall it as a duct only... I am guessing it will save ~10 lbs. it's so much fun doing this haha

good thoughts here, and if I succeed on the wiring, I will definitely do a writeup... I can't find anything on any of the forums about standalone chassis wiring... I came close with a post from bardabe from about 2 years ago, but not enough specifics to really finish it.
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Old 03-27-2008, 08:03 AM   #16
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And being it lighter to use the other duct..
why not go with that?
I doubt the extra ounce will be noticeable. The heater duct is smaller in size, but it's not any lighter since it's still plastic. The only difference you'll see is the tape used to seal the holes in the evaporator case, which can't weigh more than an ounce.
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:55 AM   #17
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(1/16)/100 = .625 milliseconds in the quarter man...
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Old 03-27-2008, 01:20 PM   #18
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I took mine out not to long ago, when I was relocating my fuse box inside the car.

Now, the blower motor dosen't kick on. So i'm guessing some of the AC wiring is assciated with the blower motor's power.

Or I messed sometihng up, which is very possible.
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Old 03-27-2008, 02:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I doubt the extra ounce will be noticeable. The heater duct is smaller in size, but it's not any lighter since it's still plastic. The only difference you'll see is the tape used to seal the holes in the evaporator case, which can't weigh more than an ounce.
yes i would save a ounce. big deal. But it will enable me to sell the other piece with the ac compressor, lines, evap, condensor, accumulator, etc.. as a COMPLETE ac system. Plus, from the looks of things, it will kinda simplify things a little bit.
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Old 04-24-2010, 08:19 PM   #20
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I just took apart the oem box and removed the hvac cooling radiator (dunno what it's called, accumulator?) Put it back together and blocked off holes.
Simple, weight savings, but you might want more. Idk how you would retain function with removing more.
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:43 PM   #21
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hey whats up guys i have my dash out and every thing im having trouble taking out the ac blower that sits rite behind the glove box on my s13 hatch does any 1 have any idea how to remove that cuz the wires r no longer a problem for me i already deleted them
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:44 PM   #22
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remove the bolts that attach it to the firewall.
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