Manual Boost Controller question

[95white240sx]

Hey guys real quick need some ideas to see if I'm crazy or not lol. I bought one of them cheap ass MBC on Ebay knowing its junk $10 gets crap. Its a needle in it so not regulating crap I had 7 psi closed boosting off the waste gate and opened until any change I got 19 psi. Its the rectangle one so knob on top and 2 barbs on the bottom.
Here is my idea take the needle out and bore out the inside of the controller a hair. Pick up a ball bearing that is a tight fit but not so tight it cant move. Place a spring on top of that followed by another bearing. Flatten off the peak of the needle.
Bottom barb runs to my pressure supply IE hot pipe and top barb runs to the waste gate. In theory it should now work like a normal MBC the tighter (less slack on spring = less boost) Loosened (more slack = more boost)?

Please tell me I'm not crazy lol

[95white240sx]

sorry I think its vise versa tighter more boost looser less, because if its looser it takes less pressure to move the bearing upwards? is that right?

[ATLspeed]

^^ correct

[95white240sx]

so the whole idea should work right?

[Razi]

Basically like that?
Do a Google search for DIY boost controller, most of them use just a simple ball and spring.

[Drifting-pedobear]

why cheap out on something that could potentially destroy your entire motor? spend the extra 60 and get a hallman...

[95white240]

Well its not about cheaping out its about being resourseful and a manual boost control wont harm anything but I'm not one for dropping over a hundred or so to have my boost bumped up 3 psi not cost efficent in my eyes

[Merked98]

Best way to regulate boost is right from the waste gate IMO.

[95white240]

Yeah that's how I have it set now but I want more then 7 pounds of boost

[unreal-]

Originally Posted by Drifting-pedobear

why cheap out on something that could potentially destroy your entire motor? spend the extra 60 and get a hallman...

+1

Originally Posted by 95white240

Well its not about cheaping out its about being resourseful and a manual boost control wont harm anything but I'm not one for dropping over a hundred or so to have my boost bumped up 3 psi not cost efficent in my eyes

Hallmans can be had for around $70-90 shipped depending on model. I'd consider it cheaping out in that sense. Although spending a few bucks to raise boost a few psi might seem expensive, you'll have more solid boost, faster spool, and warranty.

And if you think about what you are saying, some people spend several hundred dollars for a few hp (exhausts, headers, etc.) and if you think of it in $/hp (assuming $70 for a hallman, and 12hp/psi for the average healthy motor, and 3psi additional boost):

12hp*3=36hp, $70/36hp=~$1.95/hp. A hallman is well worth the cost, just to have solid boost that will hold all day every day. If its good enough to be on 7/8sec cars, its good enough for me!

[didderson]

Been running a hallman MBC for yearssssssss. Dynod 373 Hp on a Tial MVS wastegate @18psi last spring. Shit works fine. I can remove it for the lower boost setting of WG spring @14.5 psi. One of these days I'll have to go EBC..

[95white240sx]

what you arent understanding is that the hallman works the exact same way as what im doing, they use a ball bearing and a spring so why would taking my 10 dollar MBC boring it out dropping a bearing and a spring it be "cheap and unreliable" it its the same thing in a different body....


12hp*3=36hp, $70/36hp=~$1.95/hp. A hallman is well worth the cost, just to have solid boost that will hold all day every day. If its good enough to be on 7/8sec cars, its good enough for me!

Or how about 12hp*3=36hp, $10/36hp =.27/hp lol I went to school for machine tool technology so the just straight making one from scratch would honestly cost 5 bucks