swapping KA24E out

[89hatchman]

for another KA24E. The current one is blown.

Just got the radiator and fan shroud out (without breaking anything!) and working on the harness and vacuum lines.

And holy shit the vacuum lines. There are more of them then I have ever seen in any other car. Should I be worried about getting them all back in the right place? Or do they all kind of bend back to their correct spot when I put everything back?

Any tips that you think I should know overall for this engine replacement?

[iveexcaped3]

replace all of them..... just get the cut to lenth stuff from kragen or autozone so you dont have to worry about them being brittle or cracking and giving vacuum leaks..... also check you clutch (if stick) when you swap motors and regrease you throw out bearing and contact points for the fork.... ive done this swap 3 times so trust its worth checking

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by iveexcaped3

replace all of them..... just get the cut to lenth stuff from kragen or autozone so you dont have to worry about them being brittle or cracking and giving vacuum leaks..... also check you clutch (if stick) when you swap motors and regrease you throw out bearing and contact points for the fork.... ive done this swap 3 times so trust its worth checking

Is it compliated getting all the lines back in their correct place?

[iveexcaped3]

It's always easier doing them when the motor is out cuz its easy to access them

[Frank_Jaeger]

If you don't have emissions testing, you may find it easier just to remove the lines entirely, along with other emissions accessories / parts.

[edlover714]

if ur lucky hoses still have color coded lines on them write down on piece of paper wher each color line is in relation to tb vacum pipes and solenoids and on back of head replace each line one at a time so you dont get confused. if no color lines, an old trick is to mark each line with paint marker1,2,3ect and do same on location each hose goes1,2,3

[iveexcaped3]

if you screw up save this and blow it up, it helped me out serveral times diagram

[MamangSorbetero]

The Factory Service Manual: FSM has all the vaccuum routing you need. Go download a PDF ebook somewhere.

When you remove your old KA24E, its pretty basic: unbolt mounts, transmission bellhousing, catch can, cooling system, heater core hoses, EGR.

Just do the same for the other and it should just drop right in

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by MamangSorbetero

The Factory Service Manual: FSM has all the vaccuum routing you need. Go download a PDF ebook somewhere.

When you remove your old KA24E, its pretty basic: unbolt mounts, transmission bellhousing, catch can, cooling system, heater core hoses, EGR.

Just do the same for the other and it should just drop right in

would you suggest separating the tranny from the block before pulling it out? Or just pull the whole thing out in one piece?

I just don't really want to struggle with the bolts on the top of the bellhousing...

[MamangSorbetero]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

would you suggest separating the tranny from the block before pulling it out? Or just pull the whole thing out in one piece?

I just don't really want to struggle with the bolts on the top of the bellhousing...

The easy part is taking the engine out. The hard part is bolting it back on.

The right way to bolt the transmission back is to get the car on four stands and raise it up high. Then use a really long extender to torque them down from behind the bellhousing

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by MamangSorbetero

The easy part is taking the engine out. The hard part is bolting it back on.

The right way to bolt the transmission back is to get the car on four stands and raise it up high. Then use a really long extender to torque them down from behind the bellhousing

alright, forget that I'm going with pulling the tranny out as well.

[MamangSorbetero]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

alright, forget that I'm going with pulling the tranny out as well.

You're still going to need to put the car on stands regardless. Trans sensors, hoses and mounts need to be unbolted. Driveshaft and components.

Imo, just pull the engine out and bolt it back ghetto way. Take it to a shop lifter to finalize the torque settings lol. It's hard being a garage king

[iveexcaped3]

6x easier pulling it with the trans. Issue is you need to drain your gear oil cuz it'll all pour out the tail shaft and end up on your floor.