Need opinion on my SR set up

[battosaii930]

Im getting about $5k for selling an extra car i have and i want to use the money to finish my engine my goal is 350+whp

here is what i have right now
-Redtop 180sx SR20det
- Tomei 256/256 Poncams
- Tomei rockerarm stoppers
- Tomei 740cc injectors
- Tomei Expreme bottom mount manifold
- Garrett GT2871r
- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- 300xz fuel filter
- Sard FPR with a FPR gauge
- 3" Megan turbo back exhaust
- MBC
- AEM Wide band
- NGK iridium spark plugs
- Greddy FMIC
- Apexi intake

thats where im at now here is what i think i need to finish
- z32 MAF
- Apexi Power FC
- intercooler pipes and couplers
- Greddy intake manifold
- Greddy oil pan
- aluminum drive shaft
- a good tune

im not sure what more i would need with the money left over if i have any id like to do some things with my suspension.

[godsmack]

Def upgrade the suspension and brakes. As far as the pfc and tune. Do you have a tuner in the area that does the pfc? If I were you I'd go to a reputable tuner and ask his opinion on what he prefers to tune with. Makes it much easier and you'll usually end up with a good tune.

I'm not knocking on pfc by anymeans.

[battosaii930]

yea i have coil overs and r33 brakes but there are a few other suspension parts i want to upgrade.

thanks for your opinion on the tuning part i didnt think of it that way but most of the tuners i know do AEM

im also going to order a Harness from Wireingspecialties my buddy got one and it looks really nice while mine is over 20 years old and the coil pack cables are hard as a rock.

[godsmack]

New harness is a good idea. And AEM offers some good standalones that will be more expensive than the pfc but not by much if you're buying a new pfc.

As far as suspension arms go what kind of driving are you planning on doing? If it's just dd with occasional track use then I would just freshen everything up with new bushings and leave the stock stuff on.

[battosaii930]

its not a track car only but i do auto-x with it and sometimes i take it to the road coarse at West Palm Beach.

i DD an old Benz so im not worried about suspension harshness.

i may just go with the AEM

[battosaii930]

do you guys think i will be able to hit my goal power with my set up?

[bc.]

Originally Posted by battosaii930

do you guys think i will be able to hit my goal power with my set up?

Probably. It looks like you have decided on some nice parts too. (Tomei!!!)

A couple things to note though:
-You don't need an aluminum driveshaft, you only think you do. Wait til it is running, then get one, just in case you need more $ for something.
-You might not need the Greddy intake either, but they look quite good soooo.... yeah
-What BOV?

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by battosaii930

Im getting about $5k for selling an extra car i have and i want to use the money to finish my engine my goal is 350+whp

here is what i have right now
-Redtop 180sx SR20det
- Tomei 256/256 Poncams
- Tomei rockerarm stoppers
- Tomei 740cc injectors
- Tomei Expreme bottom mount manifold
- Garrett GT2871r
- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- 300xz fuel filter
- Sard FPR with a FPR gauge
- 3" Megan turbo back exhaust
- MBC
- AEM Wide band
- NGK iridium spark plugs
- Greddy FMIC
- Apexi intake

thats where im at now here is what i think i need to finish
- z32 MAF
- Apexi Power FC
- intercooler pipes and couplers
- Greddy intake manifold
- Greddy oil pan
- aluminum drive shaft
- a good tune

I tuned pretty much this exact setup. same turbo same injectors same cams same intake etc...
customer's car.

HEres the car and dyno result. Pretty much standard results for that turbo with a good tuner.








Only thing is I tuned it on an AEM not a power FC. But fwiw you get the same result either way. Just AEM has more bells and whistles.

[battosaii930]

Originally Posted by bc.

Probably. It looks like you have decided on some nice parts too. (Tomei!!!)

A couple things to note though:
-You don't need an aluminum driveshaft, you only think you do. Wait til it is running, then get one, just in case you need more $ for something.
-You might not need the Greddy intake either, but they look quite good soooo.... yeah
-What BOV?

well i have a decent budget and as am seeing it id only use half of the budget to get the engine done.

and i have a HKS bov

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

I tuned pretty much this exact setup. same turbo same injectors same cams same intake etc...
customer's car.

HEres the car and dyno result. Pretty much standard results for that turbo with a good tuner.








Only thing is I tuned it on an AEM not a power FC. But fwiw you get the same result either way. Just AEM has more bells and whistles.

very nice that looks exactly where i want to be at!

[Mikester]

If you find yourself putting your car even in the same area code as that dude, turn around and run the opposite direction as fast as you can!

Also, whatever your 'budget' is, add an extra 25-50% to it for padding... The nickels/dimes associated with a quality build become a real PITA real quick (experience talking).

- Get an EBC... an MBC is fine for stock setups... but can cause some 'shit' once you get into the actual tuning realm.

- You won't need an FPR until going past the 400 mark...

- Add a master bushing kit to your list... It will tighten the car up and make it respond much more precisely. Important as you add power.

- If you run the Expreme manifold, you need the Expreme outlet elbow; otherwise it won't clear the tranny.

- You don't need to drop $600+ on a GReddy FMIC... it's a core & piping... no need to pay out 3x the price for the name... Save spending the big bucks for name-brand moving parts

- Wiring Specialties makes a lower engine harness to for about 90 bucks. May as well do it right=)

- knockoff GReddy manifold is just as good as the OG (hate to have to say that)... save the money. If it takes in air more efficiently than OEM & doesn't leak; why spend the extra cash.

- You will need to upgrade your clutch if you haven't already... No need for some stupid-stiff clutch... Just one that will be fun on the street and hold a bit more than the amount of torque you plan to make (about 1 ft/lb of torque per hp is a decent rule of thumb for keeping the clamping force more than the required torque)

Anyway, whatever you do- have fun!

[battosaii930]

Originally Posted by Mikester

If you find yourself putting your car even in the same area code as that dude, turn around and run the opposite direction as fast as you can!

Also, whatever your 'budget' is, add an extra 25-50% to it for padding... The nickels/dimes associated with a quality build become a real PITA real quick (experience talking).

- Get an EBC... an MBC is fine for stock setups... but can cause some 'shit' once you get into the actual tuning realm.

- You won't need an FPR until going past the 400 mark...

- Add a master bushing kit to your list... It will tighten the car up and make it respond much more precisely. Important as you add power.

- If you run the Expreme manifold, you need the Expreme outlet elbow; otherwise it won't clear the tranny.

- You don't need to drop $600+ on a GReddy FMIC... it's a core & piping... no need to pay out 3x the price for the name... Save spending the big bucks for name-brand moving parts

- Wiring Specialties makes a lower engine harness to for about 90 bucks. May as well do it right=)

- knockoff GReddy manifold is just as good as the OG (hate to have to say that)... save the money. If it takes in air more efficiently than OEM & doesn't leak; why spend the extra cash.

- You will need to upgrade your clutch if you haven't already... No need for some stupid-stiff clutch... Just one that will be fun on the street and hold a bit more than the amount of torque you plan to make (about 1 ft/lb of torque per hp is a decent rule of thumb for keeping the clamping force more than the required torque)

Anyway, whatever you do- have fun!

i may just get the EBC that AEM sells

i was looking at freddy manifolds they dont look too bad

and the part about needing an expreme elbow with an expreme manifold is false ive had the manifold for a long time already there are no special parts needed all standard parts work and have proper clearance

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by battosaii930

i may just get the EBC that AEM sells

i was looking at freddy manifolds they dont look too bad

and the part about needing an expreme elbow with an expreme manifold is false ive had the manifold for a long time already there are no special parts needed all standard parts work and have proper clearance

^^That's good to know... apologize for the mis-info... Not sure where I got that from, but I know it applies 'somewhere' lol

[battosaii930]

does the master bushing kit come with the diff and rear subframe bushings? i was looking at the kit but from the pics it looks like it dosnt i wanted to get new bushings for everything anyway

[bc.]

Some of them will, just read the fine print or call in your order and ask the vendor. Subframe bushings will be a must if you get that much power, otherwise you will have wheel hop like a rabbit.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Honestly, you dont need a Greddy manifold. You'd end up hurting the power band more than help you with it. For a small turbo like a GT2871, it wouldnt be high up on my list of parts. Turbo should be good enough to get you 350+whp. Save the money for a clutch just in case you need it instead of wasting it on a driveshaft.

[brndck]

just fyi i've got a power fc d-jetro for sale for s13 redtop

[Suprareal]

Originally Posted by battosaii930

does the master bushing kit come with the diff and rear subframe bushings? i was looking at the kit but from the pics it looks like it dosnt i wanted to get new bushings for everything anyway

My Energy master kit did not. It came with poly subframe inserts though which i guess tightened it up but a little but actual new bushings would be way better.
I made my own solid diff bushings when swapping to a vlsd. Some might not like it but here is a choice. Does not feel bad either.