S13 DOHC gauge cluster problem has me stumped - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

zooopreme · 07-30-2014, 10:16 AM

Hello everybody, so I've got a seemingly small problem that I am dealing with and after doing research and applying those methods, I'm frustrated because I'm still where I started.

To get you folks on track:

S13 is DOHC and it had a perfectly functioning DOHC gauge cluster
Removed DOHC cluster for modification and drove around without a gauge cluster
Bought SOHC cluster for spare parts
Removed gauge needles off both DOHC and SOHC gauge cluster (pulled the metal needles off too)--did not document the last position*
Put new painted needles in, plugged the harness back in, speedo read 15 mph at full stop, RPM not responsive, fuel and temp exceeded F (Full) and H (Hot).
Removed needles to calibrate and went to gas up
Put needles at: F (Full), midway point for temp, 750 RPM for idle, and 0 for speedometer. After driving, no response from any needles and temp and RPM gauge do not return to return position.
However, when the gauge cluster is plugged in: odometer still spins, gauge cluster lights work, AC and AC lights works, hazards/turn signals work, door chime still working, etc.

*real stupid move on my part

So yeah, nothing is moving at the moment except my RPM needle moves very slowly when applying and letting off gas--I revved the engine to a high RPM and the needle moved like a turtle.

Any ideas? Is the mechanism stuck or broken? How can I find the original or stock positions?

zooopreme · 07-30-2014, 01:55 PM

I tested out the SOHC cluster as well with the same gauge faces and got same results: lights work, turn signals, high beams, warning lights, e-brake light, etc. all work except for the gauges.

Forgot to mention that I checked the fuses and the wires to make sure and everything is fine. I guess I solved the mystery and need to get the mechanism that turns the needles fixed.

OnTheChip · 07-30-2014, 03:33 PM

The DOHC tach gets a 0-5V signal from the ECU and the SOHC tach gets a 0-12V signal off the coil. That might explain some of your tach issue.

zooopreme · 07-30-2014, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTheChip

The DOHC tach gets a 0-5V signal from the ECU and the SOHC tach gets a 0-12V signal off the coil. That might explain some of your tach issue.

Hm, I made sure (both times) that I was using the DOHC tach when testing to see if it was just the cluster itself that was busted.

racepar1 · 07-30-2014, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zooopreme

I tested out the SOHC cluster as well with the same gauge faces and got same results: lights work, turn signals, high beams, warning lights, e-brake light, etc. all work except for the gauges.

Forgot to mention that I checked the fuses and the wires to make sure and everything is fine. I guess I solved the mystery and need to get the mechanism that turns the needles fixed.

The ONLY thing that won't work when using the SOHC cluster on the dualcam is the tach. ALL the other gauges should work. Either you screwed up both of your clusters or there's something wrong on the car side.

zooopreme · 07-30-2014, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racepar1

The ONLY thing that won't work when using the SOHC cluster on the dualcam is the tach. ALL the other gauges should work. Either you screwed up both of your clusters or there's something wrong on the car side.

I'm definitely aware of this which eludes to my post before yours for which I made sure that the tach used for both clusters was a DOHC one.

Also, do read my previous post where I said that I checked the wiring and fuses and everything checks out just fine. So it can't be the "car" side.

Update:

Got the fuel gauge and the temp to work. The speedo and tach/RPM gauge are also kind of working.

What I mean is:

1.) the tach still revs slowly and then sticks
2.) the speedo does go up as I drive and goes down before I stop but very slowly

Driftwire · 07-30-2014, 07:15 PM

Cluster is shot. Buy a DOHC one for like 20

racepar1 · 07-30-2014, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zooopreme

I'm definitely aware of this which eludes to my post before yours for which I made sure that the tach used for both clusters was a DOHC one.

Also, do read my previous post where I said that I checked the wiring and fuses and everything checks out just fine. So it can't be the "car" side.

You should read the part of my post where I said "you screwed up both of your clusters"...

Having two different clusters fucked in exactly the same way is unlikely though, unless you pulled the same dumb move on both of them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftwire

Cluster is shot. Buy a DOHC one for like 20

And DON'T TAKE THE FUCKING NEEDLES OFF THE GAUGES STUPID...

Cluster mods must add like 50hp or something.

***dorkidori_s13*** · 07-30-2014, 10:42 PM

i had a similar issue with my last car... check ALL of the wires (especially ground) going to the plugs in the dash harness. these wires are over 20 years old and will split VERY easily! i found my issue was the ground cable had split in half when i removed the cluster (i went from digital to analogue). the split ground cable caused the cluster to do all kinds of weird stuff! the dash/cluster harness unplugs at the main dash harness about a foot in. take it out and completely inspect it. the split in my ground wire was so small i couldnt see it until i spread the wires out!

zooopreme · 07-31-2014, 09:44 AM

^Definitely will recheck those grounds, thank you, dorkidori.

Also, racepar1, thanks for trying. It was nice of you to reply with information that I already stated. Clearly, insulting other members makes you all the more helpful. I'll make sure that I "gain power" for my car from this.

ltionsipow · 07-31-2014, 07:54 PM

The DOHC tach gets a 0-5V signal from the ECU and the SOHC tach gets a 0-12V signal off the coil. That might explain some of your tach issue.

racepar1 · 08-01-2014, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zooopreme

^Definitely will recheck those grounds, thank you, dorkidori.

Also, racepar1, thanks for trying. It was nice of you to reply with information that I already stated. Clearly, insulting other members makes you all the more helpful. I'll make sure that I "gain power" for my car from this.

My point is that you should never, EVER......

...ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever...

...EVER, take the needles off the gauges.

Serious question though. Did you do the same thing to BOTH clusters? Is there another car available for you to plug your cluster into just to be sure? Like I said before, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that both clusters have the same issue.

Want a cluster upgrade? Get a Stack unit. Replacing gauge faces is dumb...

zooopreme · 08-02-2014, 02:53 PM

For anybody that wants to paint/color in their cluster's needles, you'll want to pull the gauge needle and not the metal pin that comes along with it. Delicacy is a must when putting the plastic portion back in. Calibration is a breeze if you leave the metal pin inside.

Quote:

Originally Posted by racepar1

My point is that you should never, EVER......
...ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever...
...EVER, take the needles off the gauges.

Serious question though. Did you do the same thing to BOTH clusters? Is there another car available for you to plug your cluster into just to be sure? Like I said before, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that both clusters have the same issue.

Want a cluster upgrade? Get a Stack unit. Replacing gauge faces is dumb...

I wanted red needles not different gauge faces. So I painted the needles and parts of the clear backing transparent red with Testors.

And yeah, I was able to test out both clusters on a different car and it worked. My speedo and tach on the DOHC cluster took a dump on me.

For daily driven car, a stack unit isn't needed.

07-30-2014, 10:16 AM	#1
zooopreme Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 2,772 Trader Rating: (38) Feedback Score: 38 reviews	S13 DOHC gauge cluster problem has me stumped Hello everybody, so I've got a seemingly small problem that I am dealing with and after doing research and applying those methods, I'm frustrated because I'm still where I started. To get you folks on track: S13 is DOHC and it had a perfectly functioning DOHC gauge cluster Removed DOHC cluster for modification and drove around without a gauge cluster Bought SOHC cluster for spare parts Removed gauge needles off both DOHC and SOHC gauge cluster (pulled the metal needles off too)--did not document the last position* Put new painted needles in, plugged the harness back in, speedo read 15 mph at full stop, RPM not responsive, fuel and temp exceeded F (Full) and H (Hot). Removed needles to calibrate and went to gas up Put needles at: F (Full), midway point for temp, 750 RPM for idle, and 0 for speedometer. After driving, no response from any needles and temp and RPM gauge do not return to return position. However, when the gauge cluster is plugged in: odometer still spins, gauge cluster lights work, AC and AC lights works, hazards/turn signals work, door chime still working, etc. real stupid move on my part So yeah, nothing is moving at the moment except my RPM needle moves very slowly when applying and letting off gas--I revved the engine to a high RPM and the needle moved like a turtle. Any ideas? Is the mechanism stuck or broken? How can I find the original or stock positions? __________________ For Sale #1 \| For Sale #2*

07-30-2014, 01:55 PM	#2
zooopreme Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 2,772 Trader Rating: (38) Feedback Score: 38 reviews	I tested out the SOHC cluster as well with the same gauge faces and got same results: lights work, turn signals, high beams, warning lights, e-brake light, etc. all work except for the gauges. Forgot to mention that I checked the fuses and the wires to make sure and everything is fine. I guess I solved the mystery and need to get the mechanism that turns the needles fixed. __________________ For Sale #1 \| For Sale #2

07-30-2014, 03:33 PM	#3
OnTheChip Zilvia Junkie Join Date: May 2013 Location: Burgaw, NC Posts: 318 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	The DOHC tach gets a 0-5V signal from the ECU and the SOHC tach gets a 0-12V signal off the coil. That might explain some of your tach issue. __________________ NismotronicSA - Speed-Density Tuning for Nissans

07-30-2014, 10:42 PM	#9
*dorkidori_s13* ITS LISA'S FAULT!!! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Las Vegas Age: 43 Posts: 7,496 Trader Rating: (41) Feedback Score: 41 reviews	i had a similar issue with my last car... check ALL of the wires (especially ground) going to the plugs in the dash harness. these wires are over 20 years old and will split VERY easily! i found my issue was the ground cable had split in half when i removed the cluster (i went from digital to analogue). the split ground cable caused the cluster to do all kinds of weird stuff! the dash/cluster harness unplugs at the main dash harness about a foot in. take it out and completely inspect it. the split in my ground wire was so small i couldnt see it until i spread the wires out! __________________ Check out my IG for what I'm up to! DORKIDORI INSTAGRAM!!!

07-31-2014, 09:44 AM	#10
zooopreme Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 2,772 Trader Rating: (38) Feedback Score: 38 reviews	^Definitely will recheck those grounds, thank you, dorkidori. Also, racepar1, thanks for trying. It was nice of you to reply with information that I already stated. Clearly, insulting other members makes you all the more helpful. I'll make sure that I "gain power" for my car from this. __________________ For Sale #1 \| For Sale #2

07-31-2014, 07:54 PM	#11
ltionsipow Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: CA Age: 40 Posts: 2 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	The DOHC tach gets a 0-5V signal from the ECU and the SOHC tach gets a 0-12V signal off the coil. That might explain some of your tach issue.