Another sr20 won't start topic

[wezurii]

Hate to be that guy but I searched and offcourse I have a different situation/problem, long story short

Car and specs
89 240sx coupe (base was auto ka24e)
blacktop s13 sr20, manual sr20 box

Car started with the old harness, didn't run right but instead of replacing stuff one by one like I should, I started doing all sorts of replacement and now it won't start at all

Installed new WS harness (still has old trans harness)
New starter (Tested it beside the car and works)
Installed a big O2 sensor as that should be the one according to all the info I could find(this was probably the problem as it was held by 1 of 3 wires
Fuel pump primes
Ignition barrel shows 12V
New relays didn't change anything
Clutch relay (checked and replaced but didn't do anything)

Now I am kinda running out of stuff to try
I still need to check
Old engine harness
Measure ECU Voltage

But besides that does any one you had a similar problem and what was the fix or any suggestions ?

Thanks in advance

[lok]

Check the connector that plugs into the dash by the ECU.

Check your battery tray wiring on the chassis vs your new harness. No telling what has been done to stock wiring.

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by lok

Check the connector that plugs into the dash by the ECU.

Check your battery tray wiring on the chassis vs your new harness. No telling what has been done to stock wiring.

Yeah already had a small convo with Yuiri and Brian from WS to double check some things

Also needed to check that, some wires on the chassis that has been done to the car makes me think WHO thought this was a good idea

[lok]

It only needs like 7 wires to start

Shouldn't be too difficult

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by lok

It only needs like 7 wires to start

Shouldn't be too difficult

Yeah I can't imagine it could be something big as the s13 harness isn't rocket science

[jr_ss]

Pull CAS and spin by hand to see if you’re getting spark/fuel. A noid light plugged into the injector connector will let you know there’s signal.

[inopsey]

you didnt exactly say, but does the engine crank over at all?

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Pull CAS and spin by hand to see if you?re getting spark/fuel. A noid light plugged into the injector connector will let you know there?s signal.

Super will try that, thanks

Originally Posted by inopsey

you didnt exactly say, but does the engine crank over at all?

I see my bad.
But no the engine doesn't even crank, from the moment you turn the key, you hear the fuel pump prime but after that nothing.

[lok]

Originally Posted by inopsey

you didnt exactly say, but does the engine crank over at all?

Good question

Did you check your clutch pedal switch? Those like to randomly rot out and when you push the clutch in, it won't engage the switch.

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by lok

Good question

Did you check your clutch pedal switch? Those like to randomly rot out and when you push the clutch in, it won't engage the switch.

Did not physically check that yet no, did check the relay because it has been wired as it was an auto before the sr20
Will put it on my to check list, Thanks!

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by wezurii

Did not physically check that yet no, did check the relay because it has been wired as it was an auto before the sr20
Will put it on my to check list, Thanks!

The clutch interlock switch isn?t needed if the car was an auto. Especially if wiring specialties provided the harness.

[lok]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

The clutch interlock switch isn?t needed if the car was an auto. Especially if wiring specialties provided the harness.

Yeah. I missed that part where he said it was auto before.

I think checking the chassis wiring is his best bet.

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

The clutch interlock switch isn?t needed if the car was an auto. Especially if wiring specialties provided the harness.

Yeah I did not yet install the trans harnass but it started with the old one.
Have some things noted that I need to check.

Will update this topic with my findings

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by lok

Yeah. I missed that part where he said it was auto before.

I think checking the chassis wiring is his best bet.

Anything in particular I need to double check or perhaps measure ?

[wezurii]

Little update, tried the old and new harness (no difference)

Tried measuring the starter on the car but idt didn't gave any Voltage reading or like 0.09 (so here is probably where the problems lies, not getting power to starter etc)

Did see a couple of things that didn't make any sense to me
WS harness looks like it has the auto clutch relay in the harness itself and old harness didn't have the plug what I think it is but has a relay in the fuse box for it
WS harness has a bunch of options but that shouldn't be the reason that it wouldn't start

Pulled the old trans harness out and compared it to the new WS trans harness and also saw 2 things that were different (1 is my fault)
My dumbass forgot to mention when buying the harness that my battery has been relocated to the trunk (probably just need to cut the ground connector and put it around the metal and protect it)

The WS harness has a different terminal for the fuse box connector then the old harness (but I doubt this would be the issue as long both connectors are grounded)

Did not try the new trans harness from WS yet as I was one with it for the day

Will try to see if I have any pictures of the connector differences

[wezurii]

https://imgur.com/a/Gnh5nrd

Here is the pictures of the 2 connectors
The white one is what I think is the auto clutch relay (could be wrong)
The red one is the terminal near the fuse box, but the one that already was on the car and has matching connectors is different then the one from WS

[wezurii]

Little update
Installed new engine and trans harness from wiring specialities.
Still doesn't start, fuel pump primes, lights etc all work
When I turn the key nothings happens, I do hear a click but that is about all

Gonna mail WS and provide the asked pictures.

[jr_ss]

So the motor isn’t even cranking over…?

Have you tried spinning it with a wrench on the crank bolt?

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

So the motor isn?t even cranking over??

Have you tried spinning it with a wrench on the crank bolt?

Exactly, doesn't even crank

I did check that and it isn't seized.

[wezurii]

So time has passed
Tried the different harnesses I have, the new WS engine and trans harness is installed but still nothing
Tested about every configuration regarding harnesses/fuses and relays that are present but nothing changes

Did test the starter besides the car a long time ago, but apparently that isn't a good lead to know if it works properly or not
Need to see if the starter gets 12v
Buddy of mine told me to measure everything, I know the concept but 0 electrical knowledge.

So will message a company who specializes in electro stuff as I have had it with this nonsense.

[splitfire]

Why not just manually shorten starter positive contact to battery and see if it cranks?

[splitfire]

("S" terminal to battery +)

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by splitfire

("S" terminal to battery +)

Thanks
Yeah that was the final step, need to order tyres first for the r33 rims.
But in my luck this will also turn out into nothing and the place where the car is stored is in the process of being for sale so I need to either fix it asap or get it fixed

[splitfire]

There is really nothing sacred with S-chassis wiring. These are cars of 90s, straight and simple.


If the starter cranks on manual activation, then just splice temporary wire directly from ignition switch start pin(most likely #5, black-yellow wire, but double check: this pin must be hot while ignition switch in "start" position and cold otherwise) to the S terminal of starter motor. Thus you could move the car to new place and take care of proper wiring.


If starter motor doesn't crank on manual activation, then you should check grounds, connectivity between terminal "B" and battery +, and starter itself.

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by splitfire

There is really nothing sacred with S-chassis wiring. These are cars of 90s, straight and simple.


If the starter cranks on manual activation, then just splice temporary wire directly from ignition switch start pin(most likely #5, black-yellow wire, but double check: this pin must be hot while ignition switch in "start" position and cold otherwise) to the S terminal of starter motor. Thus you could move the car to new place and take care of proper wiring.


If starter motor doesn't crank on manual activation, then you should check grounds, connectivity between terminal "B" and battery +, and starter itself.

Will try that, thanks.
Already been researching how the system works

[240boosted]

Originally Posted by lok

Good question

Did you check your clutch pedal switch? Those like to randomly rot out and when you push the clutch in, it won't engage the switch.

I have the same issue I jumped the blue pin by the pedal and it fixed my issue jump them and that way you won?t need push in the clutch

[TheVinylKingz]

Originally Posted by wezurii

Hate to be that guy but I searched and offcourse I have a different situation/problem, long story short

Car and specs
89 240sx coupe (base was auto ka24e)
blacktop s13 sr20, manual sr20 box

Car started with the old harness, didn't run right but instead of replacing stuff one by one like I should, I started doing all sorts of replacement and now it won't start at all

Installed new WS harness (still has old trans harness)
New starter (Tested it beside the car and works)
Installed a big O2 sensor as that should be the one according to all the info I could find(this was probably the problem as it was held by 1 of 3 wires
Fuel pump primes
Ignition barrel shows 12V
New relays didn't change anything
Clutch relay (checked and replaced but didn't do anything)

Now I am kinda running out of stuff to try
I still need to check
Old engine harness
Measure ECU Voltage

But besides that does any one you had a similar problem and what was the fix or any suggestions ?

Thanks in advance

Read through the whole thread. I had a similar issue and it was the ignition switch. It only takes 15-30 min and cost is $15 - $60 depending on your budget. If that doesn’t solve your problem return it. Also, are you on a stock ECU? If yes, check your ECU fault codes.

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by TheVinylKingz

Read through the whole thread. I had a similar issue and it was the ignition switch. It only takes 15-30 min and cost is $15 - $60 depending on your budget. If that doesn?t solve your problem return it. Also, are you on a stock ECU? If yes, check your ECU fault codes.

Yeah the sr20 has already been pulled, to swap over in a different chassis for severals reasons, so will close this

Thanks for all the help and suggestions everyone

Topic can be closed

[lok]

In 5 years if zilvia is still around

Someone will bump this asking if this was ever solved

Solved by installing it in a new chassis. Maybe?

[wezurii]

Originally Posted by lok

In 5 years if zilvia is still around

Someone will bump this asking if this was ever solved

Solved by installing it in a new chassis. Maybe?

Hahah bet.
Not the reason why I pulled it and bought a better chassis tho xD