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Old 01-19-2005, 04:57 PM   #1
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Battery relocation wiring Q

Hi guys, I relocated my battery to the trunk a few weeks ago.. was in a rush because I was putting in my FMIC.. anyhow, I did it the super ghetto way, just put a ring terminal on some Home Depot super stiff 2 gauge wire, and hooked it up to the thing that goes on the positive on the battery. Grounded the battery to the trunk floor.

I did some searching and some people put the positive lead on the starter.. is this correct? What about all the other stuff like the black and green plug (that plugs into the big red plug) that touches the positive? Please bear with me as I have very little wiring knowledge. Thanks

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Old 01-19-2005, 07:58 PM   #2
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Bolt the lead from the battery to the starter.

Then either insulate the battery terminal and tuck it away, or tie it all together somehow at the terminal.
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Old 01-19-2005, 09:03 PM   #3
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I haven't finished mine yet. I've the battery box mounted for 6 months empty...ha!

Anyway, I'm planning on using one these things. Hopefully it will make it easier to clean things up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/000_0204.jpg
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Old 01-19-2005, 09:29 PM   #4
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What's crazy is you didn't take out your battery box, you just cut right the sucker.

I removed my battery box and it was a biatch...
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Old 01-19-2005, 09:36 PM   #5
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Most people just cut through it buddy..
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Old 01-19-2005, 09:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruthlesstyper
Most people just cut through it buddy..
Most people are lazy.....
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Old 01-19-2005, 09:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R240NA
Bolt the lead from the battery to the starter.

Then either insulate the battery terminal and tuck it away, or tie it all together somehow at the terminal.
So the battery terminal and that red connector doesn't need to be hooked up to the positive on the battery?
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Old 01-19-2005, 09:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSP13-Sideways
What's crazy is you didn't take out your battery box, you just cut right the sucker.

I removed my battery box and it was a biatch...
You mean the battery tray? I wanted to but didn't know how to take out the spot welds.. also looked like a big PITA. How did you do it?
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Old 01-20-2005, 09:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rps13_fastback
You mean the battery tray? I wanted to but didn't know how to take out the spot welds.. also looked like a big PITA. How did you do it?
The spot welds are the hardest thing. Just drill them out because you're going to have to cut a hole there anyway. I made my hole a lot larger though, so when I upgrade my intercooler I have room to play with.
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Old 01-20-2005, 09:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rps13_fastback
So the battery terminal and that red connector doesn't need to be hooked up to the positive on the battery?
Think about it for a sec.

Battery power flows to the starter terminal.
The positive terminal lead to the starter is still there as well.
Power flows through the terminals on the starter up to the battery terminal.
Power flows through the terminal to the fusebox.
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Old 03-25-2005, 11:55 AM   #11
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I know this is an old thread. I searched and looked at a bunch of other threads but didn't find an answer to my question. I'm just wondering about the gases that batteries emit. If I buy an optima and relocate it to the trunk without a battery box should I worry about this? My car is a daily driver. Thanks!
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Old 03-25-2005, 12:10 PM   #12
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with an optima you should not have a problem and as long is the car is not a hatch and has a back seat you dont need an externally vented battery box

always use a battery box shit the marine ones are under 20 at any auto parts store if you are being totally cheap use that
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Old 03-25-2005, 03:36 PM   #13
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hatch or not, any trunk mounted battery that is not a 'dry/gel' cell needs to be vented. Your trunk is hardly air tight even in a coupe.

Regardless if you know people without problems, it's not safe.
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Old 03-25-2005, 03:55 PM   #14
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safe or not I am just saying that for teh drag strip if it is in hte trunk and you have a rear seat in a coupe it is legal
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Old 03-26-2005, 11:55 AM   #15
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So to restate the answer to be sure I understand: If I get an Optima yellow top=Dry/gel cell then I don't need a battery box, hatch or not, with a back seat, correct?
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the head
safe or not I am just saying that for teh drag strip if it is in hte trunk and you have a rear seat in a coupe it is legal
It probably depends on how strict they are at the track you go to, but it seems to me that you wouldn't pass tech inspection if they saw your trunk mounted battery w/o a box, because at that point it's a liability issue for the track management if anything goes wrong on your run.
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Old 03-26-2005, 01:19 PM   #17
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Optimas are gel cells, they don't need to vent and you can mount them upside down if you want.
Standard sealed type batteries require venting, even if it's in the trunk.
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:25 AM   #18
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easiest way to bolt the + lead to the harness is with a bolt/nut and washer. you put a washer on each side of the existing harness terminal, then send a bolt through the new + terminal and a bolt on the other side and tighten it all up, walla... done. id get a pic but im tired and lazy...
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSP13-Sideways
Most people are lazy.....

word......
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Old 03-27-2005, 11:06 PM   #20
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Just out of curiousity where did you ground your battery in the trunk?
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Old 03-28-2005, 08:19 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoshi
It probably depends on how strict they are at the track you go to, but it seems to me that you wouldn't pass tech inspection if they saw your trunk mounted battery w/o a box, because at that point it's a liability issue for the track management if anything goes wrong on your run.
no man I just said you dont need an externally vented box you still need a box of some sort
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Old 03-28-2005, 08:22 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s14srpilot
So to restate the answer to be sure I understand: If I get an Optima yellow top=Dry/gel cell then I don't need a battery box, hatch or not, with a back seat, correct?
they dont need a VENTED BOX you still need a BOX of some type to pass tech get a plastic marine box and call it good like I said they are about 20 or 25 dollars

the reasoning behind this is it protects the terminals from grounding to the chassis in an accident if the batt breaks loose from its mountings electrical fires are bad and this helps to prevent them
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Old 07-30-2005, 06:30 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R240NA
Bolt the lead from the battery to the starter.

Then either insulate the battery terminal and tuck it away, or tie it all together somehow at the terminal.

Is there an advantage to bolting the lead from the battery to the starter, rather than bolting it to the oem lead that was originally attached to the battery? I'm in the middle of my battery relocation and am a little confused about this recommendation...
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Old 07-30-2005, 08:25 PM   #24
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my pos. lead is rigged to the original lead for now. i'm going to either run it to the starter or pick up a distribution block. i'm not leaving it where it is now, it just doesn't look very clean
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Old 07-31-2005, 02:04 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 180SXtc
Just out of curiousity where did you ground your battery in the trunk?
under the trunk mat sand it down till its bare metal and lag bolt the lead on there good n tight.

cutting out the oem battery tray is a pain. I took to it with a crowbar, sawzall and hammer. a drill is a good idea to break apart the annoying parts.
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Old 07-31-2005, 10:24 AM   #26
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one of the teachers in the automotive program at my school, the teacher for electrical systems, told me that gel cells do indeed create the same gases as normal batteries, so a vented box is still a good idea.

and just to have correct terminology, power doesn't flow, current flows through wiring diagrams.
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Old 08-01-2005, 08:08 AM   #27
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My system is wired to the original leads using a 150 amp marine circut breaker it works great and gives me aa handy place to power down the car when i put it in storage.
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Old 08-01-2005, 11:01 AM   #28
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Quote:
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My system is wired to the original leads using a 150 amp marine circut breaker it works great and gives me aa handy place to power down the car when i put it in storage.
yea regular circuit breakers work for dc and ac in terms of a mock kill switch.
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Old 08-01-2005, 12:52 PM   #29
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Damn, right thru it.

I hate electrical, so i'll give you props on one of the cleanest battery trays ever!

And I'll read to learn more.
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