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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ottawa, Canada.
Age: 42
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Hello every body..
I just bought a 1992 240sx LE, with 130K on the engine. I took it out tonight for the first time and noticed the following: 1) It's an automatic, when I change to Drive or Reverse, the car sometimes Jumps.. Feels like someone or something hitting it from the back or the front. Any ideas what that could be? My mechanic didnt notice that (maybe cause he didnt drive it! GRR) but he tells me he liked the condition of the transmition, and says it's fine. 2) When I'm driving and I slow down to 60km/hour or less, I remove my foot off the gas and break. The moment the RPM hits 1000, it feels like someone taps on the break, at the same time the rpm jumps back to 1500, then again down to 1000, small tap on the break, then jumps to 1400, and so on till it's going slower that 30km/hour. This is VERY weird.. Any ideas? Can any one help? I took it toamechanic ysturday he didnt notice all that.. thanks |
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#2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: New Jersey
Age: 44
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ok first he tranny does that sometimes i kno what ur talking about i have a auto too.......... ok now..... the rpms thing............ the brake pedal and accelerator are real close together so u might be hitting both when u go to brake watch. sit in ur driveway in park and hit the gas softly then hit the brake and then look down and see if ur foot is on the brake and accelerator
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#3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Hi..
No, I know for sure It's not because of the gas pedal or the break pedal. I completely remove my feet.. When it reaches 1000rpm and it's going around 60km/h, it starts throbbing, it "automatically(?)" taps on the break (I can feel it) then the rpm goes back up to 1500, then slowely down to 1000rpm and again, another auto-break, and back up to 1300, and so on till it goes below 1000rpm, then it's a gradual, smooth deceleration from there (with out breaks still, which is normal). This is REALLY making me nervous <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':('> As for the little TAP thing when I chance to reverse or drive, thats normal? Are you sure? Can anyone else comfirm it? Thank you very much! |
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#4 |
Zilvia Contributor
![]() Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC.
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When you are shifting the gears (from neutral to drive...or neutral to reverse) do you hold the brake? If not, then thats common for alot of automatics. I dunno if this is cause by a lack of tranny fluid..or what..but..it happened in other cars Ive driven. Also, a while back...people in this forum talked about some way that you can modify the shift patterns on an automatic...to make it shift better for street racing. Maybe that "thing" they adjusted need to be de-adjusted on your car or something.
Also, the wierd thing about it auto braking....maybe your ABS (if you have it) is messing up. What I would do, is have a friend follow you, and have them look and see if the brake light comes on when you feel the car "brake" (assuming the light would come on automatically as a result of the ABS kicking in by its self). To me it sounds like you car just idles high..and moves by itsself...and somehow the ABS is programmed to slow the car's rolling as a result of idle-rolling (or whatever). Dunno if thats how it works, but thats my wild guess. My advice is to take it to Nissan, and ask one of the mechanics to ride around the parkinglot with you for 2 minutes. They may be cool enought to do that for you....all you have to do is ask (or know someone). M |
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#5 |
Leaky Injector
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have your mechanic run a full gambit on your electric systems (particularly in your engine...i.e. sparks, spark wires and all that crap) you need to especially check your distributor....i had a problem like you're talking about in my '89 auto, except mine was more violent (like jumping back and forth between gears when accellerating or doing anything else down the road) and my distributor was going bad......also the rpm range you're speaking of is around the idle range so check you're idle switch....ummm, this is a wierd problem but i hope that these suggestions help....good luck on getting it fixed and i hope that it wont blow up on you before it does :-)
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#6 |
Leaky Injector
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I might be way off here, but it sounds to me like that car has a racing shift kit in it, and it drops a gear at 1000 RPM, therefore the RPM jumps up to about 1500, as it downshifts, same thing as if you slow down using gears in a manual? Lates
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#7 |
the revss have to do with your tranny. could be worn clutches or bad fluid. i don't think it has to do with your brakes. as for "jumps" could be motor or trany mount or bad gear mesh in the rear end.
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#8 |
revs are most likely due to your trans. bad clutches or old fluid. sounds as if it is downshifting. as for the
"jump", could be bad tranny or engin mount. also could be bad gear mesh in the rear end. |
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#9 |
As to problem #1 sounds very much like bad motor mounts, the rubber gets worn and sometimes the bolts break. As to problem #2 it sounds like the car is downshifting, although I've never heard of an automatic doing that.
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#10 |
Zilvia Junkie
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there was a thread on this forum about getting a harder shift...has something to do with a clip being removed or something to that extent...that might be the reason for your first problem...i tried a search but couldn't find it...if someone found the thread, then they could post it...as for the second...i'm stumped...
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#11 |
Leaky Injector
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from Arcane on 10:17 pm on Feb. 27, 2002
there was a thread on this forum about getting a harder shift...has something to do with a clip being removed or something to that extent...that might be the reason for your first problem...i tried a search but couldn't find it...if someone found the thread, then they could post it...as for the second...i'm stumped...</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> The "jump" when shifting into D or R is probably the motor/tranny mounts, as has already been suggested. In case anybody's interested, though; the harder-shift thing is accomplished by removing the connector from the "line pressure solenoid" (I think that's what it's called) resistor which is mounted on top of the driver side fenderwell. Doing so will cause the tranny to make noticeably more solid shifts (particularly 1st to 2nd, in my case). It doesn't affect anything when shifting from neutral to D or R. It does have a tendency to cause ECUs to kick a code. |
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#13 |
Leaky Injector
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ottawa, Canada.
Age: 42
Posts: 122
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I FOUND THE "PROBLEM"
I dont know if it is a problem though, but it ONLY does that when my O/D button is on! When i remove it, it doesnt do that at all! Any ideas? Is that normal? |
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