Engine Oil for SR or KA

[akito]

Hey guys whats up. what engine oil do you use when you do your oil change? SR or KA

I was thinking of trying to set up a group buy for Eneos. Let me know if anyone's interested in some. Im sure it'll be cheaper than buying from the local shops as they tend to be expensive. Not to mention Eneos is good and helps save fuel and increase power. It's the stuff i used when i was in japan.

[TforTits]

Sorry dude, I roll Oberon

[steve shadows]

dont use synthetic

[qwikspool]

i use royal purple.

[NemeGuero]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

dont use synthetic

Your mom uses synthetic!

Why not?

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by NemeGuero

Your mom uses synthetic!

Why not?

Unless you re-place the bearings in the bottom end. The molecular abrasion on the mating surfaces of the bearing is different over time with synthetic. Its like feeding someone who is lactose intolerant, milk instead of soy. If you engine was brought up on Synthetic then thats fine. If it was brought up on DealerShip Nissan 10w-30 Organic Oil then keep it organic.

If you dont believe me, tell me how long your turbo motor lasts under stress after you switch from straight organic straight accross to synthetic.

I went against my own advice once and the results were - failed rod bearings.

If you re-do the bearings and clean the motor, then first fire it on synthetic , then use synthetic for the life after that, youll be good to go.

or maybe im nuts, and this makes sense, im just a poli sci major anyways...

[NemeGuero]

You can't change the other persons diet with break-in mileage?

[Anto]

I personally run GC (German Castrol). It's 0w-30 Syntec.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...=0&Board=UBB51

Shit's bomb.

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by NemeGuero

You can't change the other persons diet with break-in mileage?

prolly.

Id love to see a two year test.

equal abuse,

break in change over

full organic

switch straight to synthetic.

maybe we shoud do?

anyone want to volunteer their motors?

Synthetic is awesome, I would just rather run it on my built motor rather than Container Motor etc.

[NemeGuero]

i'm down. I'll get around to rebuilding that blown KA I picked up

[EchoOfSilence]

Yeah, I heard you don't switch to synthetic from dino oil if it's been brought up on synthetic for a long time, as seals tear and i guess rod bearings too.

anyway, I use Castrol High Mileage 20w50, sohc ka

[steve shadows]

It is a really good question when you think about it.

My cars will stay organic. (KA stock) (SR Stock Bottom end).

The built bottom end will stay Mobil 1 synthetic when dropped in June.

There is something to be said for a gradual switch over. Like 1 quart of Synthetic three of Normal, then two on the next change, then three and then full.

But my question is how many numchucks out there just go straight over.

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by Anto

I personally run GC (German Castrol). It's 0w-30 Syntec.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...=0&Board=UBB51

Shit's bomb.

0w-30?

So when your car is running HOT its 0w

_IM RETARDED_and hungover

[drift freaq]

I bought my Hardbody pickup at 21k it had been run on dino oil. I switched to Synthetic it worked fine even after I had put 135k on it. Now I have not personally switched a low mileage turbo engine from dino oil to synthetic. So I cannot attest for that but I would have to say as long as the mileage is low i.e. not much wear there should be no issue in switching to Synthetic.

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by drift freaq

I bought my Hardbody pickup at 21k it had been run on dino oil. I switched to Synthetic it worked fine even after I had put 135k on it. Now I have not personally switched a low mileage turbo engine from dino oil to synthetic. So I cannot attest for that but I would have to say as long as the mileage is low i.e. not much wear there should be no issue in switching to Synthetic.

I am not talking about a hardbody pickup.

I am talking about a battered wife, turbo setup engine. BATTERED like beaten with a pipe.

[drift freaq]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

I am not talking about a hardbody pickup.

I am talking about a battered wife, turbo setup engine. BATTERED like beaten with a pipe.

heh and I was just clarifying the issue, because it was a general question about the engines in general and not per se about strictly a turbo engine. He did list KA in his post. Therefore my answer was valid and correct as well.

[steve shadows]

yeah true

[clutch kick drifter]

so lemme ask this, if ive ran synthetic ( sr20, 350hp stock bottom end ) and im wanting to swtich to regular can i?

[steve shadows]

did you replace the bearings then just ran synthetic?

or did you just run synthetic on a container motor?

Just step it down in phases...

I THINK it will be ok. Hope I didnt scare anyone too much.

[CKAMC]

I agree with the statement of "early to synth"

I run royal purple on my daily... used to do mobile one before... and it was born on its first 3k with oem oil.

the car didnt feel that much different from the mobile one change... but at 20k when i did the royal purple... it felt better all around... even when I turn on the ac it doesnt lag as much as before.

I did synthetic on my OLD s13 sohc ka... supposedly the motor was at 115k-ish (and the second one since the chassis had over 295k).

Car was dirty all together... coolant system clean up...fuel system clean...intake clean...oil clean. after doing all that cleaning I did synthetic for shits and giggles and not a single problem... it got beaten to shit a lot because I was a pizza delivery boy back then.

the only reason it died was because of the alternator.... but that was around the 165k mark so it was expected.

[MELLO*SOS]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

0w-30?

So when your car is running HOT its 0w

I think one of us is confused about how multigrade oils work. I believe the 1st number is the viscosity at cold start and the 2nd is at operating temp?

Originally Posted by wiki

The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as cold as a single-grade 10 weight oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W", and thins less at temperatures above 99°C (210°F). The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle.

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by mello88

Are you confused, or is my understanding of how multigrade oils work wrong...

Im actually just really hung over

IM blaming this on JohnGriff lol

I thought that was the case...We got in an argument at Kragen and the guy behind the counter (moron) said it was the other way around.

Never bothered to check.

how about single wieght oil?

like

SAE 50...

[MELLO*SOS]

Damn, and I was going to ask if you were drunk again

I always thought the W was for Winter... Guess that's not too far off

edit: regarding the single grade, it's just that grade all the time regardless of temp. Multigrade "starts" at the low # viscosity and raises commensurate with temperature until operating temp where it stays at the second # viscosity. I guess before multigrade oils in the "good ol days" the dudes would have to change motor oil grade with the season? :lol:

I wasn't really clear on those #s until recently too, read through this wiki page it has some info:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

[steve shadows]

yeah should always stick to my guns. The reason why I was arguing that was because I remebered it from Auto Shop Class from like 1999 lol...

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#5W30%20versus%2010W30

[MELLO*SOS]

This is a good thread, I have wondered when the time comes to get the RB going what oil to use in there...

Now the question is, where the fuck do you find 7.5w-30 oil? jk... I know that 10w-30 is a decent substitute -- but I don't know whether it was synthetic from the get-go or not. Would changing from synth to dino be less harmful than changing from dino to synth?

Also, do any of you guys run "turbo" specific oils? I read some page on amsoil.com that made me consider this...

[steve shadows]

http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

-interesting link, im a visual person and im still really freakin hungover

I cant even comprehend this simple discussion kind of sad lol.

anyways.

I used to run SAE50 valvoline on my ole 62-1 car, never had a problem for about a year, than the oil pickup went saucer and threw a bearing...

If i was baller I would use turbo specific oil, very cool stuff.

Good discussion indeed.

[MELLO*SOS]

^^ I've seen that before and it was an interesting read, thanks for the link.

Here's another interesting "oil" link, kinda motorcycle specific, but has some good info nonetheless:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html


What about this stuff, think it's decent for our turbo-apps? LOL

[steve shadows]

I have a case of 20w-50 Valvoline racing oil that I am Mad-Dawging.

[redsuns3838]

so what about if you switch to synthetic but dont push the motor hard for a while? or you think it would have the same ill-effect on the bearings?

I swapped my SR and have been using synthetic ever since but who knows what it was brought up on in japan... Guess all I can do it keep putting synthetic in.

Akito I might be interested on a GB for eunos....but royal purple is on sale at autobacs right now. I just want to change from mobil 1 since they have a big controversey regarding their oils or something.

[MELLO*SOS]

^ I'm in the same position, I can only assume that my motor was ran on synthetic for all it's life in japan....