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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
removing stock exaust. help! need this done today
I need to know the best place to cut the rusted bolts connecting the exuast tot he cat in order for the bolt to come out easier w/o messing the thread up.. convertor. I have an s13 and using s sawzall which is all I have. Its gettin a pain and I already used pb blaster. Thanks!!
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#2 |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Long Beach CA
Age: 39
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dont worrie about the theads you can always put smaller bolt w/nuts in its place and the nuts will hold it in place but if you want to keep the stock bolts put some wd40 on them that should brake up some of the rust good luck
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#5 |
Yes, I look like that
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He is telling you to take them out with all the reckless abandon you need to use in getting them removed, then use slightly smaller bolts when you reattach, that way the threads will not matter. No redrilling necessary
Or do that, don't be scared to break them, they're likely fucked anyway, just be ready to replace |
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#9 |
Yes, I look like that
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You got me beat there, my old cat had bolts rusted in, we broke them out and replaced them...
Next time around, I had the whole damned thing replaced with a 3" one |
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#11 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Get some deep sockets.
You need them owning a 240. The #1 best way to get rusted exhaust bolts/nuts off is get a long extension and use a impact wrench. Takes them off like nothing. And for taking the 3 bolts for the header to pre-cat (s14's)/downpipe is just get a couple really long extensions and again the impact wrench. I was doing to cut the bolts like you but then I got the idea for the impact wrench and I am so glad I did. So much better than sawing them off.
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![]() Current: 95 240SX SE - VLSD, S. Tech springs, S14 SR, Walbro pump, Nismo 3" catback, HDI FMIC, Koyo Rad. 95 3000GT base - Stock 94 3000GT VR4 - K&N Filter, Test pipe, Denso fuel pump, HKS EVC IV. 92 Ninja EX500 - Full Muzzy exhaust 82 Ford Courier Full Race Truck - 87 Ranger 2.0 engine with fully rebuilt bottom end, stage 2 post and polished head and race cam, Welded diff., K&N Huge Air Breather. |
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#14 |
Yes, I look like that
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LOSE THE PIPE DREAM OF CUTTING THEM!!!
Get a deep socket Get another one Get a breaker bar BREAK THE SUMBITCH OFF (the beauty of the INTENTION to break it is that you can twist either way, tightening or loosening) use a drill and a bit to remove what remains replace the bolts. ... I highly doubt that an electric impact will give you the torque you need to break it. |
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#16 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I used an air impact. I put in every bit of strength I had and could not get the header to pre-cat bolts off. That was use a 12" breaker bar. Came off like nothing with the impact.
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![]() Current: 95 240SX SE - VLSD, S. Tech springs, S14 SR, Walbro pump, Nismo 3" catback, HDI FMIC, Koyo Rad. 95 3000GT base - Stock 94 3000GT VR4 - K&N Filter, Test pipe, Denso fuel pump, HKS EVC IV. 92 Ninja EX500 - Full Muzzy exhaust 82 Ford Courier Full Race Truck - 87 Ranger 2.0 engine with fully rebuilt bottom end, stage 2 post and polished head and race cam, Welded diff., K&N Huge Air Breather. |
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#18 |
Leaky Injector
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Vail, Co
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you've made it through 27 years of life and rusty bolts are kicking your ass this bad?
sweet... this might help you... http://home.howstuffworks.com/bolts.htm you will also need to read this in order for the class on "bolts" to work http://home.howstuffworks.com/wrench.htm |
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