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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Greddy type R bov Q
I've spent alot of time searching here and other places with no avail sooo...
Anyone have a vacumm route diagram for the Greddy Type R bov or tell me what nipple goes to where? i connected it up guessing the top nipple goes to the hotpipe and lower to the intake mani.. it works but leaks enough boost to keep the car from reving past 4k. I just ordered an adaptor so i can recir. It currently has a stiff spring in it also. |
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#2 |
Post Whore!
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if u don't mind me asking. what does the type r sound like? i can never find a video of it. and all the ones i find everyone tells me that is compressor surging.
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#3 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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#4 | |
Nissanaholic!
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RS is lame R is baller |
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#8 |
Post Whore!
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well if its anything like the type S, then most ppl just hook up the upper ( usually bigger) line to the throttle body, then run the second line open, or running off the waste gate(i think).
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#9 | |
Post Whore!
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Run one line from here
(Leave the Back one unplugged) ![]() Straight to here No other T's Big nipple on top right of the Throttle Body ![]() Quote:
Its Pretty Quiet though most of the time you can hear it alittle bit in my clip on low boost ![]()
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1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit |
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#11 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
My video is what it sounds like on a T-28 @ 8-10psi on Low engine load, Spring setting "soft"
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1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit |
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#13 |
Zilvia Member
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I have the stiff spring Type R bov and it does have compressor surge slightly more than other bov's. It works extremely well and I am really happy with it. I have had it for 4 years or so. I would recommend it.
As far as the noise, depending on how tight or loose I make it by turning it; it can make a deep lower pitch woosh to a higher pitched squeal type of noise. The way I have it now which is turned to the stiffer setting and with the gt2871r, it makes a lower pitch woosh.
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s13 sr20det |
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#14 |
Post Whore!
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I have the Type R.
I probably tightened the adjustable screw to like, halfway in. It doesn't open until I hit like 3psi on a low load over 3500rpm in like 3rd gear, on the stock T25. Now when I hit 10psi and am getting on it, and I let off, it's like a loud "KA-CHIIINNNGGGGGGG", cause that BOV is totally money. And I'm not saying it is money like it's a line to say, the BOV says it itself. I'm just repeating what it's telling me to you guys. In like 2 weeks when my car's back up and running, and if I remember to, I'll make a video of it. |
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#18 |
Zilvia Junkie
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im still wondering that too..... i did my vacumm line like sileighty 85 said and it works perfect. No more 4k bog! It still leaks a bit at idle tho. Plus it bogs a bit between gears when i hammer the shit out of it.
hopefull reciring it will fix thoes issues.. I cant wait to hear it go off when i put my t3/t4 setup on in about 2 months |
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#19 |
Post Whore!
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The other fitting routes the air to the bottom of the piston, whereas the top nipple routes the air on top of the piston.
Basically, you're supposed to only use the top nipple, to provide the chamber above the piston with both vacuum (for when you let off, to help pull the piston up) and boost pressure (to help the spring push the piston down to help keep it sealed during boost situations). That design is there to help keep the piston sealed during high boost applications. However, for some people, that causes too much compressor surge before the valve opens, so they incorporated the design with the nipple on the bottom. You are supposed to hook the bottom nipple to a source that will only see positive pressure, aka boost. When the both of the nipples are hooked up, what essentially happens is that, the positive pressure from the bottom nipple cancels the positive pressure from the top nipple out, leaving the spring inside the chamber as the only thing pushing down on the piston against the boost pressure within the intercooler piping. This is so that the valve will respond more quickly, but because you've now lost the primary force to push down on the piston from the top to help seal it, it will not hold as much boost pressure. To be honest, I haven't had any issues with mine for the past like 5 years that I've had my car and setup, which is basically a stock SR with the Greddy Type R, and I've only had the top nipple hooked up. |
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