ka build Q's

[Options13]

alright well, i got my block back from the machine shop and my parts came in, so its ready to go back together!






so does this mean i can use mobile 1 oil now enstead of some high milage oil? haha as long as it isn't synthetic right?

also about the vaccume hoses on the head, which of these can i remove ?? or can i just remove it all?


also do i need these





whats this..?



AND is this part of the AC? if so i can rip this out right?




AND does anyone know the part number to this hose????

[SoguRacing]

i believe the black thing is a carbon canister which filters fumes from the head. and the second thing i believe is for the AC. not 100 percent though. and the last thing in the firewall can be found at a local junk yard. pull it out with and maybe 10 bucks.

[!Zar!]

Pretty much, since you are rebuilding your engine, it's pretty much, "new".

The rest of that stuff you can take off, you just need an EGR blockoff plate. And you can remove all that shit, just make sure to cap off the lines that won't be used under the throttle body.

Yes, that is ac shit.

Uhh, That's just you're heater hose.

Go to nissan, or download the fsm.

Shit, search courtesy nissan or something and you should be able to find it.

[Options13]

so i can remove all that vaccum lines behind the head?

also yeah i'm having a rough time trying to find that hose, is it part of the cooling system?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...1444_1447.html

is it 14052 on there?

[ManoNegra]

I left all the emission stuff on when I rebuilt the KA, drive free of worry from cops.
Used Rotella T to break in motor for ~1k miles before switching to Mobil 1 synthetic.

[Options13]

hmm, if you remove emissions will your car smoke out the exhaust more?

especially if you have no CAT converter would you guys recomend removing emissions?.. (last owner welded on straight pipe where cat converter goes..)

i live in oregon and there are no emission tests here

hmm isn't there mobile 1 non sythetic oil?

also can anyone varify if the hose is the hose i stated in the above post

[240sxaddict]

to be totally honest, the only small vacuum line you have to run is one to the FPR. All the rest are emission related.

And the black canister is also connected to the fuel tank breather line, unhooking this and leaving it vented to the atmosphere supposedly looses alittle more gas to evaporation(the vapors would normally collect in the intake plumbing when it's all hooked up, and get burnt up at startup), but that may just be a rumor.

[frosti108]

^ yes to the fuel pressure reg.... AND dont forget the brake booster lol i forgot about it on my s12 last time i re thought the vaccum mess. also for a good running car, you should run air hose from the intake before the throttle body, to the iacv or whatever its called with an idle screw on it. and u dfont need any of the bullshit you asked about unless ofcourse you live in california or something silly like that.


btw. the block is lookin good. what all are you throwing in there??


SOHC FTW!!!!!!!!!

oh yea. dont forget to take the butterflys out of the intake before you put it all back together. take everything off the intake except for the peice on the very back, with the idle screw in it with the 2 connectors...

[Clowny]

Originally Posted by Options13

alright well, i got my block back from the machine shop and my parts came in, so its ready to go back together!

looks good!

Originally Posted by Options13

so does this mean i can use mobile 1 oil now enstead of some high milage oil? haha as long as it isn't synthetic right?

Mobil 1 is synthetic only. the reason you dont want to use it when first breaking in your motor is because its about 50 dollars for one oil change of that stuff. and when you are gonna be changing the oil after only 500 miles, thats just a waste of money. go with some good ol dinosaur sauce (read: non-synthetic) for the break in period, and switch to mobil 1 later if you like. As for the rotella t, im not gonna say to not use it, but i know that its formulated for diesel engines and not gasoline so do so with caution.

Originally Posted by Options13

also about the vaccume hoses on the head, which of these can i remove ?? or can i just remove it all?


also do i need these

1st pic: those lines are for your egr and secondary throttles. if you are removing both of those systems, then yeah get rid of all that.
2nd and 3rd pic: those are egr actuators. again, if you are not going to use your egr system anymore, then get rid of em.
4th pic:that is your aicv or air injection control valve. it pulses clean air from your ntake into the exhaust to clean up the emissions of the vehicle. often these valves become dirty and stick open causng exhaust gases to leak into your intake and reduce performance. i would eliminate it.

Originally Posted by Options13

whats this..?

carbon canister. get rid of it if you like.

Originally Posted by Options13

AND is this part of the AC? if so i can rip this out right?

yes that is part of the ac. its the ac evaporator in case you were curious.

Originally Posted by Options13

AND does anyone know the part number to this hose????

just measure the length of it, then go to autozone and purchase the same length of heater hose and your done. wait.. also measure the inside diameter of that hose as well. they will need to know that too. but that is all there is too it. hope it all helps.





ohh and i almost forgot.... S12s FTMFW!!!!!

[Options13]

Originally Posted by frosti108

btw. the block is lookin good. what all are you throwing in there??

haha thanks, well due to my lack of money im just throwing in the stock internals back in there with new piston rings, and new rod and main bearings..

and also since all that shit is emission related i guess i 'll go ahead and remove all that shit since i don't feel like hooking it all back up again and i want a more clean look..

since im removing the hardlines behind the head what do i do with the plugs that would usually go there? just leave them unplugged?


when i do remove the vacc lines how do i clog them? put some sealant in there? haha

oh and clowny, thank you that was very helpful

if i went to auto zone to get that hose, would i need to find some heat shit to wrap around it?

and also could i do this with any hose in my car? just go to auto zone and tell them the measurments enstead of going to the dealership? damn i bet that shit is alot cheaper..


and also i got all the springs off my head so i can replace my valve seals,
how do i get the seals out? don't i need to somehow get that ring that fits around it off?


heres the seats

[awesomenick]

remove that whole mess of hardlines behind the head, just unbolt it. I just left those plugs unplugged when I did it and had no problems. There are vacuum caps for sealing off unused vacuum ports.

[projectRDM]

Originally Posted by Clowny

yes that is part of the ac. its the ac evaporator in case you were curious.

No it's not. The evaporator is found inside the car. That is the receiver/drier.

[Options13]

Originally Posted by awesomenick

remove that whole mess of hardlines behind the head, just unbolt it. I just left those plugs unplugged when I did it and had no problems. There are vacuum caps for sealing off unused vacuum ports.

alright

also i began ripping out some of the emission stuff in my engine bay / ac conponents and just seeing if i removed everything in the engine bay, pretty sure i did since the charcol canister thing is pretty much all ..


byebye!

this is part of the AC right? so i can remove it, and there is a plug that goes there, when i go to hook everything back up do i just leave the plug that normally goes there just chillin?


and this was ziptied onto one of the AC metal lines, and it plugs in near the front near the bumper, anyone know if i need this



and, i can just get rid of this whole thing right? or is there parts in here i need..?

and same with this, there is a plug that hooks to this, do i just let it chill when i got to hook everything back up?

[ManoNegra]

Originally Posted by Clowny

As for the rotella t, im not gonna say to not use it, but i know that its formulated for diesel engines and not gasoline so do so with caution.

SAE regulations changed recently, some of the additives used in conventional oils have changed. They don't work as well. New regs didn't affect diesel oils, hence Rotella D still has all of the old good stuff. And it's cheap. Again, I used it to break in the motor; ran it for 1k and then swapped over to Mobil 1.

Originally Posted by Options13

and also i got all the springs off my head so i can replace my valve seals,
how do i get the seals out? don't i need to somehow get that ring that fits around it off?

Pliers and some cojones.

heres the seats

Did you get those reground?

[Options13]

what do ya mean by reground?

[ManoNegra]

The contact/sealing surface of the valves (the edges). If keeping the old ones, we usually have them reground at the machine shop at the same time we have the bore and deck cleaned.

[Clowny]

Originally Posted by Options13

oh and clowny, thank you that was very helpful

if i went to auto zone to get that hose, would i need to find some heat shit to wrap around it?

and also could i do this with any hose in my car? just go to auto zone and tell them the measurments enstead of going to the dealership? damn i bet that shit is alot cheaper..

you're welcome man. im just happy to help out. if you want to heat wrap them, by all means go for it. when i replaced mine, i left it uncovered and it works, but its not gonna hurt anything if you wrap yours. as for replacng all the lines at the zone, sure you can do it that way. you just have to make sure first that you are getting the right type of hose, right length, and right diameter.

Originally Posted by projectRDM

No it's not. The evaporator is found inside the car. That is the receiver/drier.

/\/\ he is right. my bad. thanks for the correction.

Originally Posted by ManoNegra

SAE regulations changed recently, some of the additives used in conventional oils have changed. They don't work as well. New regs didn't affect diesel oils, hence Rotella D still has all of the old good stuff. And it's cheap. Again, I used it to break in the motor; ran it for 1k and then swapped over to Mobil 1.

good to know. thanks for the info.