Car almost dying while driving...could be alt?

[s13pignose]

OKay my car as of last month has been acting weird. I've had two rough starts, I've had the car to almost die and notice near 2k and like 2300 rpm..but it doesn't, and today I had it to wear it wouldn't start on first crank.

The problems while driving is weird..for my tach won't stay steady at idle sometimes, and while driving at like 2k rpm the car would sorta bog but catches it self. Then today I was sitting in parking lot with my headlights on which I've done on accident before..but this time the car cranked but didn't start. So i turned the key back and tried again, and it started but heard a click like behind the dash...

With some searching I read someone else has had this click sound before

http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/225969...tery-help.html

I wanna testing to see if it's the alt in the morning..do I disconnect both batt wires or just the ground? I do it while the car is running correct?

Thanks for any help

Could my alt be the problem? I hope it's not the battery, because I have an optima redtop that's no more than 2 years old probably. I even sprayed 2 cans of intake cleaner down my AICV hose..and still have these problems

[slider2828]

THat much intake cleaner? COME ON Geezus.... That is extreme.

But whatever.... Get your battery tested at Kragen Autozone FREE! DONE!! If not better its alt. Easiest solution.

[s13pignose]

No not 2 cans at once...about a week apart. I did it a 2nd time..just to be sure..I doubt any previous owners tried that and with 150k + miles...no telling how dirty it was if any. So after still having problems..I'm nto focusing on that anymroe, and trying to think of other possible problems. Cleaned my maf screen today too...plugs and wires good. I even pulled each wire to see if I had a mis or something..but each cylinder reacted the same...Idled change with each one.

My question is can a weak alt or batt cause these problems..I know they're first to blame alotta times along with the starter when car wont start..but like I said I'm having problems while actually driving. For the most part it starts fine..besides the few bad times I mentioned earlier. Like the weird idle..tach going back and forth b/w like 2300 and 2000 rpm. Stuff like that

[TheRealNighthog]

Yes. the battery is mosty to start the motor. They motor then runs off the alternator for power. If its doing it while driving it would most likely be the alt. or also connections. I had similar problems with my SE-R and found out that my culprit was a faulty fusible link that runs to the positive terminal to the battery. Double check all the connections and grounds on your motor as well.

[s13pignose]

Okay thanks. BTW I have a voltage stabilizer connected to my battery...should I take it off before testing or getting everything tested...so I can get a true reading on the battery and charging system by itself.

Also anyone see a problem with my using it despite the debate over whether they help or not..like could it be a cause for the problems I'm having.

Also another way to test if it's working..battery voltage shoulder be higher with it than without correct? Atleast after the capacitors are charged up?

[s13pignose]

Went to autozone to get batt and alt tested..both passed with flying colors, and the car even acted worse today without the voltage stabilizer...really. Car even cut off on me today, which was first time since it's been acting up. Didn't even throw a check engine light..but it started right back up. I'm letting a shop look at it, hopefully the symptoms show up while in their hands. Last time I took it by, it didn't act up on them...figures. Buy today it ran so poor...it almost has to be the same way tommorow when they look at it. So now I'm thinking it's a sensor or vac leak maybe, hopefully something easy or cheap that can be fixed.

Would bad fuel pump cause issues like I'm having?

Thanks

[slider2828]

Maybe..... but you know what you gotta test..... Its all the grounds... Sounds like a grounding issue....

[s13pignose]

Aww great lol. I heard that clicking noise behid the dash so many times yesterday it was ridiculous..everytime I heard it I expected the car to cut off..and eventually it did..and didn't even give me a cel or anything to point me in the right direction

I'm wondering about my maf aswell...theres a vid on youtube about nissan mafs...in the vid there was a 96 s14 maf shown where the 2 of the pins in side were loose. The guy said the owner had symptoms that sounded like mine. One in particular was when he hit bumps like rail road tracks, the car would run bad. I know I've had bumps now and then that kinda "upset" my car aswell.

I hope I can figure it out, cause it seems like it's affecting my cars overall performance..even at WOT it doesn't seem like its old self. I'll see what the shop comes up with

Thanks for the suggestions

[SilviaSR20DET]

maybe dirty fuel injector or spark plugs, might want to give those a try

[TheRealNighthog]

There are so many variables there that its hard to pinpoint without going through everything one by one. It could be connections, grounds, coolant temp sensor, injector acting up etc etc. It probably isnt a leaky injector or o-rings since the issue is intermittent.

[wangan_cruiser]

if you already did checked your alt and battery then they still goood.



go ahead check all your connection from the ground to the positive side to the 75amp fuse link.

corrosion with our cars is really not good. needs to be clean.



i jst had a problem like that RECENTLY.



i burnt my fuse link 75amp. i re spliced it and its all good.


but about the bogging problem sounds like a maf prob. could be loose connection make sure its connected properly. if its still bogs go ahead get another maf and test it.

[s13pignose]

Alright still haven't heard from shop, but I'll post what they come up with if anything. Plugs should be good..unless they're getting oil on em due to my leaking valve cover gasket..thinking the spark plug gasket. But I read somewhere you can tell if you have a mis or bad injector by pulling each plug wire..if one stays constant as before being pulled, thats the cylinder with problems. Each one I pulled there was a change. My wires aren't even really old..there ngks 2.5yrs old at most probably.

Fuel filter was changed late last month, I've used gumout regane injector cleaner last month, clean the AICV as stated b4..and still having problems lol.

Just gotta wait and see if the shop cna figure it out..if not I'm back at the matter myself

[s13pignose]

ARHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH...update.. call the shop shortly after my last post..and guess what? The freakin car acted normal for them! They're letting it sit a while, and then take it back out to see if it will mess up. Good news is a friend said I can borrow his maf to try if the shop can't pinpoint the problem. Is it okay if it's a s13 ka24de maf? I have 95 s14. Also to see if its the coolant temp sensor..you just unplug the harness to it and see if the car runs better? In my case i'll prolly have to do it right then and there when the car starts running bad..since it wants to be so random lol.

Only other thing is dis rotor and cap I've never replaced either. But gonna try checking grounds and fuses tommorow