Intermittent Steering Shake

[GuardianLlama]

Alright well to start off i'd like to say that i've searched.... and searched.

Basically from 50mph+ my steering will sometimes shake. Other times i can cruise at 65 for up to 15-20 seconds before the shaking starts (but no longer). Just to be said this is a pretty violent shaking. Steering wheel is a blur and i can feel it in my seat. Also what recently been replaced is:

New Kazama inner tie rods
New Kazama outer tie rods
New Kazama Tension rods
New Nismo power brace
New FLCA's
New Wheels
New Wheel Bearings (fronts)
and a fresh alignment after install
Tires were balanced to 0 about a week ago.
The steering rack bushings seem to be in good condition.
And I've gone through and re-tightened everything a bunch of times.

Also i might add that braking doesn't affect the problem what so ever. So it's not the rotors (Someone is bound to mention it). I was going to replace the tension spring in the steering rack but Nissan is telling me its going to take weeks to get.

ANY input would be greatly appreciated.

[I LUV MY S13]

steering rack bushing...?

[D.Adams]

have you done your Ball Joints

[ericcastro]

Its a common problem on the S13.
keep searching.
you will find it.

[ericcastro]

Here it is.

found it by searching google for you.

took 3 minutes.

Of course i did knwo what i was looking for.

And I copy and pasted in quote form to give credit to the guy that found the right answer in thousands of post and thread on all the forums about this.

Originally Posted by seanc

its due to a spring in the rack itself wearing out.

copy and pasted from the TSB:


Steering Wheel Shimmy
Classification:
ST93-002

Section:
Steering

Reference:
TECHNICAL BULLETIN NTB93-066

Models:
All 240SX(S13)

Date:
April 1, 1993

240SX(S13) STEERING WHEEL SHIMMY

APPLIED MODELS:
All Model Year 240SX(S13)

APPLIED VIN; HICAS; DATE:
JN1HS34NW300146 - Coupe; HICAS=no; 6/4/92
JN1HS36NW300198 - H/B; HICAS=no; 6/4/92
JN1HS34NW300384 - H/B; HICAS=Yes; 6/12/92.
JN3HS - Convt.; HICAS=no;.

SERVICE INFORMATION:
Some owners of 240SX vehicles built before the Applied VIN may complain
about steering wheel shimmy while driving at approximately 55 mph. The
wheel
shimmy complaint can usually be resolved by balancing the front tires.
However, in those cases where the complaint is not resolved by this
repair,
adjustment of the steering rack friction may be necessary.

SERVICE PROCEDURE:1. Road test vehicle to verify that the customer's
complaint is steering wheel shimmy [slight rotational vibration of the
steering wheel at approximately 55 mph] and that it occurs without
braking.

2. Verify that the steering rack, rods, and joints are secure and the
steering system is within specification.

3. Balance the front tires with an on-car balancer, if available;
otherwise,
use a calibrated off-car dynamic balancer.

4. Perform another road test of vehicle. If shimmy is not resolved, it
will
be necessary to adjust the steering rack friction.

5. Remove the steering rack adjusting screw. Clean the adjusting nut of
any
remaining locking sealant. Reassemble the lock nut to the adjusting
screw
with the lock nut backed off fully.

6. Replace the spring with P/N 48237-10V02. This is a direct
replacement,
original-equipment part. Be sure the spring washers remain in place, in
the
same orientation.

7. Coat the adjusting screw with Loctite 272 Threadlocker or equivalent
and
screw into the rack. Tighten the lock nut finger-tight.

8. Torque the adjusting screw to 43-52 inch-pounds.

9. Loosen the adjusting screw, then, lightly tighten by hand.
NOTE:
The actual torque value for this screw is 0.43 to 1.74 inch-pounds.

10. Move the rack through its full travel, left and right, several
times.

11. Center the rack in the "straight-ahead" position. With road wheels
off
the ground, turn the steering wheel a half turn in each direction to
find
the maximum friction spot. Stop at the maximum friction spot.

12. Loosen the adjusting screw, then torque screw to 43-52 inch-pounds.

13. Loosen the adjusting screw approximately 40 degrees (just shy of
1/8
turn).

14. Prevent movement of the adjusting screw and torque the lock nut to
29-52
inch-pounds.

15. Test drive on a level road to verify that the steering wheel
returns to
center when the steering wheel is released from a turn (approximately
20
degrees). Also, verify that the steering shimmy was corrected by
driving on
the road surface where the incident was diagnosed.

16. If less pre-load is needed (to achieve steering wheel
return-to-center
after a turn)- based upon the results of the test drive detailed in
Step 15,
you may loosen the pre-load position of the adjusting screw, up to the
90
degree position.


Or, if more pre-load is needed to reduce shimmy, you may tighten the
adjusting nut up to the 20 degree position.

NOTE:
The pre-load range of adjustment is 20-90 degrees loose, from the
baseline
established at Step 11.

17. Road test, again, to confirm shimmy complaint is resolved and
steering
wheel will return to center after a turn.

18. If the above procedure is not successful, please call the FIXS
Hotline
for assistance.


PARTS INFORMATION:

NOTE
This is a standard replacement part number; it is not a
countermeasure/revised part.

Part Description Free Length Part Number
Spring-Retainer 27.9 mm 48237-10V02

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/216186...eel-shake.html


and people say all i do is talk shit on here,lol............

[GuardianLlama]

Originally Posted by I LUV MY S13

steering rack bushing...?

AS i said it looks good but i guess it couldnt hurt to replace.

Originally Posted by s13bdafocker

have you done your Ball Joints

Ball joints done when lower control arms were done.

Originally Posted by ericcastro

Here it is.

found it by searching google for you.

took 3 minutes.

Of course i did knwo what i was looking for.

And I copy and pasted in quote form to give credit to the guy that found the right answer in thousands of post and thread on all the forums about this.


and people say all i do is talk shit on here,lol............

This is the tension spring i was talking about in my post that Nissan said it would take like 3-4 weeks to get. I'll try re adjusting the one thats in there but in the TSB it was saying that i needed to replace it.

[Touge_Monster]

I had this same problem befor and could never figure it out. Good luck

[negrosx13]

I had the same problem...the tire guy didn't balance my tires correctly.

[GuardianLlama]

Originally Posted by negrosx13

I had the same problem...the tire guy didn't balance my tires correctly.

I have a hard time believing that tires / balance can cause an intermittent shake. From what i understand about balancing and tires being out of round / not balanced properly it would happen all the time at a certain speed. Not sometimes.


Anyone that solves my problem gets a 12 pack of beer. Come over and fix this shit / test drive whatever. I'll pay you for gas and a 12 pack for your time if you fix it!

[negrosx13]

^^^ TRUE STORY...happen right after i had to change tires.it would only happen around speed,when i drove faster it would seem it go away but the steering wheel still didnt feel smooth. When i finally got tired of it,i bought it in to school and re-balanced and everything was awesome again...

But it could be different case for your car

[GuardianLlama]

Ok so changed the tires and rebalanced but problem persists. ANYONE?

[Press]

I was suggested to change my rotors, warped rotors due to heavy breaking is what I've been told. I get the same thing around 50mph, the tires were balanced by the previous owner of the car, but as for the other fixes suggested I'm starting with my rotors ( already have a set of them ). Try rotors if you are able to get some.

[slider2828]

Front Subframe nuts.... That pissed me off so long where I couldn't figure it out.... Check your front subframe bolts make sure they are torqued to the frame. The bolts that extend from the frame might even spin while you are torquing the nuts so keep an eye out for that....

Take a picture of your rack bushings, there maybe excessive space between the triangular part and the clamp... And make sure both clamps are at 80 ft/lbs of torque as per fsm. You can easily check this symptom by raising the front end and have a buddy turn the wheels lock to lock. If there is any movement what so ever, its the rack bushings and the clamps.....

[slider2828]

Woops also tightening the slack on the rack a little... This can be done, by hold the BIG nut and turning just the center part. This adjusts the center tension on the rack.....

[projekt_s13]

im having the same problem, it shakes so bad that it feels like my door is about to fly off.

[D.Adams]

only thing i can think of.. drive shaft carrier bearing

[ericcastro]

I still think its that original thing, and you need to order it and fix it.

Originally Posted by s13bdafocker

only thing i can think of.. drive shaft carrier bearing

not a bad 2nd.
get under there and look at the carrier boot.
Is it intact or fucked? lol

Its in the neighborhood of $100 to do, so you better make sure before you just start replacing shit "because" it could be it.

Really, that nissan statement says EXACTLY what your asking and symptoms.
Most of us have had it.

Have you not replaced it?

[sliptones629]

check you tension rods. Mine would come and go and I couldnt figure it out. One of the aftermarket tension rods was loose. Been fine ever since. Cant hurt to check it.

[GuardianLlama]

Originally Posted by Press

I was suggested to change my rotors, warped rotors due to heavy breaking is what I've been told. I get the same thing around 50mph, the tires were balanced by the previous owner of the car, but as for the other fixes suggested I'm starting with my rotors ( already have a set of them ). Try rotors if you are able to get some.

Its not the rotors i have no shaking while braking or anything.

Originally Posted by slider2828

Front Subframe nuts.... That pissed me off so long where I couldn't figure it out.... Check your front subframe bolts make sure they are torqued to the frame. The bolts that extend from the frame might even spin while you are torquing the nuts so keep an eye out for that....

Take a picture of your rack bushings, there maybe excessive space between the triangular part and the clamp... And make sure both clamps are at 80 ft/lbs of torque as per fsm. You can easily check this symptom by raising the front end and have a buddy turn the wheels lock to lock. If there is any movement what so ever, its the rack bushings and the clamps.....

This i will check i'm hopeful that this is it, and i already tightened my tensioner quite a bit.

Originally Posted by s13bdafocker

only thing i can think of.. drive shaft carrier bearing

I have a new 1 piece driveshaft.

Originally Posted by ericcastro

I still think its that original thing, and you need to order it and fix it.




not a bad 2nd.
get under there and look at the carrier boot.
Is it intact or fucked? lol

Its in the neighborhood of $100 to do, so you better make sure before you just start replacing shit "because" it could be it.

Really, that nissan statement says EXACTLY what your asking and symptoms.
Most of us have had it.

Have you not replaced it?

I understand that it could still be the original thing but i'm waiting on nissan to call me and tell me that the part is in and i can pick it up. This isn't a shimmy though like the TSB describes. This is near violent. Plus when i tightened the spring down thats in there there was no change what so ever.

Originally Posted by sliptones629

check you tension rods. Mine would come and go and I couldnt figure it out. One of the aftermarket tension rods was loose. Been fine ever since. Cant hurt to check it.

I'll triple check it. although i did re-tighten a bunch of times and also had an alignment done.

[ericcastro]

WTF is wrong with your car, lol.

not the carier bearing, and you think its to violent for the TSB thing.

wow, every bold is tight underneath and the drive shaft is balanced?

i dont think the car actually shakes with the TSB thing.
bushings are good everywhere?

suck, ya got me.
glad its not my car, lol.

[DALAZ_68]

what about the rubber bushing that connects the 2 halfs of the steering column, in tends to turn to shit after 20+ yrs...

[dsastr_clan]

is your car lowered?? do u have coilovers?

[BattleRoyale]

check the power steering fluid level happened on my bro's s14... same symptoms check the coilovers etc. turned out it was the ps fluild being low

[kandyflip445]

If you've been taking those new wheels on and off, make sure that if you're using hub centering rings, that one of them isn't missing from one wheel and in another. My brother had a similar problem on his Corolla and he had 2 of the rings stuffed in one wheel from taking off the wheels and rotating IIRC. He didn't pay any attention to if the rings were there or not and one stayed on a hub where a wheel went that already had a ring shoved in it.

GL with the problem.

[Max_PSi]

If the DS carrier bearing was going, you would hear a thumping noise on decel or around turns by the shifter/tunnel area.

You replaced a shit ton of suspension parts. Did it do this before? Why not replace the old parts one at a time until the problem goes away? Could be with all the adjustable arms you put in something is out of whack.

How are your steering rack bushings also?

[CrimsonRockett]

My old '89 S13 used to do the same shit.

Vibrating at around 65mph. Starts vibrating, goes away, then comes back.

Was going to end up fixing it, but the car died a horrible death. So, there goes that.

Could it possibly be the wheel bearings themselves?

[DALAZ_68]

use crimsons method...crash that chassis and get another one...LOL...



seriously though, have u checked the bushing that connects the 2 halfs of the column...?

[GuardianLlama]

Double Post

[GuardianLlama]

Ok so first off i'd like to say that the reason i started replacing suspension parts was because i hit a curb going like 10mph and some stuff got bent. So i started replacing...... EVERYTHING haha. Everything above was replaced after my little accident.

So i just went outside and double checked that my subframe was tight and that my tension rods were all locked down. They both are. Had someone turn the wheel while the car was in the air and there was no play in the rack bushings either.

Haha steve i'm not really willing to go slide my car into a wall or something to fix this problem . But i also don't really see why a faulty bushing in my column would create this problem. Just seems like that would have a little play if that was bad.

@BattleRoyale PS Fluid?? Care to explain why that would make a difference? Tons of guys don't even run power steering and they don't have this problem.

@CrimsonRockett My wheel bearings are new man. And i really wish you fixed that problem so you could help me out haha.

@dsastr_clan yes my car is lowered on coilovers.

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by GuardianLlama

Haha steve i'm not really willing to go slide my car into a wall or something to fix this problem . But i also don't really see why a faulty bushing in my column would create this problem. Just seems like that would have a little play if that was bad.

pussy!


just a thought...then replace the spring and see how that goes... apparently you have run out of other options, or to lazy to check...