![]() |
|
Home | Rules & Guidelines | Register | Member Rides | FAQ | Members List | Social Groups | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Zilvia Member
![]() |
RB25DET Idle Issues
Here is the background on my car. S13 with an S1 RB25DET swap.
Freddy Intake w/ Q45 throttle body Z32 Fuel Filter Walbro 255 FMIC Full 3 Inch Exhaust Stock Boost Stock ECU Stock MAF Greddy Type S BOV, vented Since I got my swap running, idle has always been an issue with it. On a cold start, it will sit anywhere from 1500-1600 rpm's. Then once warm drops down to anywhere from 800-1000 rpm's. That all seems normal. These are the issues I'm having with it. -When rolling, if the car is put into neutral it will immediately jump up to around 500 rpms HIGHER than normal. So if it's still in cold start mode, it'll be around 2000 rpm, and if warmed up around 1300-1500 rpm. This will sit up around there until I come to a complete stop. Then as soon as I'm stopped, it drops to it's usual position. -I can get almost no adjustment out of the idle screw. I did it the correct way, by letting the car warm up to operating temp, unplugging the tps sensor and adjusting the idle screw. Hardly any noticeable adjustment. Last time I check is was getting power too. I cleaned it out today and still not luck. -Every now and then I'll get the classic Honda idle for a ~15 seconds. It goes up and down within around a 700 rpm range. -If free rev'd above 4500 rpm's the motor wont be able to catch itself, and it dies. It will start right back up though. -If you are rolling and punch it, the car will stutter initially and then go. Boost's fine and everything, it just seems as if it needs a split second to get it's shit together. I'm about to buy a new IAC valve and see if it makes any difference. I currently have a three bolt valve, and need to find a replacement for it if anyone knows. Some say a 1.6L 91-94 Sentra will work, but after looking at pictures it doesn't look even remotely the same. Car runs really good besides all this. Anyone think IAC with me, or maybe a possible vacuum leak? |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links |
![]() |
#2 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Misawa, Japan
Posts: 6,815
Trader Rating: (8)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 8 reviews
|
Check timing, vac/boost leaks, clean MAFS
__________________
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Port Charlotte, Florida
Age: 33
Posts: 1,352
Trader Rating: (1)
![]() Feedback Score: 1 reviews
|
Given the symptoms I'd say it's likely to be either the IACV or a vac leak. Possibly a vac leak on the IACV lol. I have the same exact symptoms, and I got a vac leak on the IM, somewhere around the EGR. I've a KA though.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Zilvia Member
![]() |
Timing has always been dead on, and I have cleaned the MAFS and it is good I'd say. No rips or tears in the screens and it looks clean. I could possibly try a different one. I think I'm about to bite the bullet on an IACV. Anyone have a part number for one that's available here in the states?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Misawa, Japan
Posts: 6,815
Trader Rating: (8)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 8 reviews
|
__________________
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|