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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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z32 rear brake conversion +parking cable swap
OK well i started doing my Rear z32 swap for my 240 following directions somewhat from importnut kinda helped... but honestly for me it was straight forward... from searching and reading from the past conversions posted on zilvia.. i wasnt happy with how things were done.. like 1 i didnt want to make any extra bracket 2 i didint want to drill any holes and 3 using zipties was just not an option i would want to use... so thinking and figuring things as i go i came up on a way of doing none of the above... basically just use the stock 240 cable sleeve with stock brackets that uses 10mm bolts. that bolts up to the subframe.. no need to reroute cables no need to drill etc etc.. ur gonna have to remove the stock cable and cut the lead piece off the z32 one and 240sx one.. but cut on the side of the caliper for the 240sx.. cause ur gonna use the lead piece for the bracket that holds the cables in line.. now onto clamping the 2 cables together figured id do the same setup as importnut...just to see if it would work.. but sadly it doesnt
^these do not work... why? because the buying a new screw with a longer length doesnt even help.. the screws width is so small it just slides along that plastic coating on the ebrake cable, it has no bite and also with all those collars it looks messy. so thinking and just searching for things to clamp 2 cables together i came up to this.. ![]() found at ur local hardware store... 1/8" cable clamp worth .45 cents...so i bought a few. after retightening all the cables so theres no slack and locking the clamps on... it still sucked... the plastic nylon what ever coated cable just slides thru the clamp... plus i didnt like the way it looked... its a big bulgy clamp and to me its a nuisance... so i go back to the hardware store running around in the electric section of the store looking for some friction tape my eyes caught on to this... a 6-14 awg mechanical lug. ![]() the little extended piece that goes inside of the little lug u can do away with, the screw that works with the little thing is alot larger then the one used with dura-collars.. so there..so when u remove the little piece it should look like the picture below. it has enough room to fit both cables.. instead of squeezing and using pliers like the dura-collars.. ![]() u will need 4 of them they usually come in a package of 2, and theyre about 3 bucks a piece kind of expensive if u ask me.... but it works real well... after backing out the adjuster knob on the hand brake, opening the adjuster all the way so the drum pads touches the inside of the rotor... i go back under and tighten the cables with no slack..with 2 mechanical lugs on each side.. make sure theyre really tight so that when u adjust the handbrake nut to get rid of slack, the cable doesnt slide thru the mechanical lugs.. reason why u want everything tight to begin with, is because all u have to do to get things right is just by backing up the adjuster.. and tightening the nut on the handbrake... so there its done.. nice and neat wrap the cables up with some friction tape... so the cables and clamp doesnt corrode.. and it looks clean done and done... thanks V for the advice on the adjuster... hope this helps the people out there who are going to do rear Z32's sorry i didnt post pics , since i dont have a digi cam. ![]()
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#3 |
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yeah s14.... yada yada yada.... fukn hassle if u ask me... i would of just bought some conv. ebrake cable if they had some.. fuck all the grunt work.. i just wanna swap and drive easy. hmmmm they make brake lines why not ebrake cables...????
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S14 TrackSlut coming to a raceway near you... 510 TimeAttack on its way... Last edited by infinitexsound; 05-31-2005 at 05:32 AM.. |
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#4 |
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![]() These worked for me. Inspired by Smogtech's thread, hes the man! Have 2 on each side. Put red thread locker on while you do it. Mine dont slip. I think the size of it was 3/16 as opposed to your 1/8.. something like that i forgot. I would never consider those du-bro pieces, r/c planes yah, but your life? no way. I'll take pics someday of mine, my friend did a clean simple job. No need for custom brackets etc.. just drill and bolt to hold the z32 line up. Well im probably due for a check up since its only been on for a week, so Ill see how it has been holdin up.
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#7 |
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Smogtech took nice pics.. i guess thier down now. http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...0zx+rear+brake
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Yeah photobucket owned me. But from what I've been reading, it doesn't take much to install zbrake assemblies in an s13. You can find s13-> Z32 ebrake line adapters on ebay.. But I haven't been able to find any tonight
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duh pull ebrake cling clang.... im coo too noisey, i like mines very stock lookin and clean its one of those things if u cant do it right dont do it at all... yeah yeah v, u told me... and i did it.. and i dont like it so WHAT!??? j/k looks cleaner now... just gotta get my rear brakes all perfectly right, the way i want it..fukn rear pads are kinda shot....... this is getting annoying...=/
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S14 TrackSlut coming to a raceway near you... 510 TimeAttack on its way... Last edited by infinitexsound; 05-31-2005 at 02:37 AM.. |
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Quote:
No change for the cables, only the shock mount. infinitexsound- You could have just skinned the nylon coating back and used any of the above items to secure directly to the cables, that would have eleviated some of the hassle.
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#12 |
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i thought about it attempted it somewhat, but usually if it takes too much work.. i wont do it.. thats just how i am... i even thought anout running a propane torch to heat the plastic off... but since i dont have one... and had to buy one... i think not....
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i have had both
s13 z brakes fit perfect had a bracket made (garageworksltd.com)and bolted it in s14, i got er33/34 lines fits perfect do it right! |
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#14 |
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dousan well i did do it right works well.... yanked the shit out of it dude, did the mad excessive yank the shit out test... it held up so... im gonna keep it that way.... works well and clean.. plus i dont have loud ass shit banging against the shield...yada mean? just happy i didnt have to make brackets use zipties and drill holes... extra work is kinda stupid.. sue me im lazy.........lol
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#15 | |
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Thanks for the info bro, I was about to go search out the dura collars but now I will go ahead and you your method. Can you by any chance post up a link to where I can get these online or should I hunt them out at a parts shop? |
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#16 |
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http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...ug-601541.aspx
theres the link........... u can find them at a radio shack im sure of... or any hardware store.... be aware of where u splice in the cables.. make sure u give yourself room for error.. if i had a choice to do things differently, i would of done all the splicing and change over while everything was off the car.. makes things easier...i would of spliced close to the wheel instead of over the driveshaft, just because i wouldnt want to remove it... in the case of stripping the 2 bolts the holds the center section of the driveshaft up.. note to self* never let anyone else work on ur car even if its a tranny job.... FUKN MECHANICS AND COLLEGE STUDENTS!
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#17 |
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So wait, which ones are the best ones to use (parts for splicing the e-brake cables)? The silver ones or the copper ones...? Hopefully doing my brake swap this week!
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#19 |
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which ever ur heart so desires, only reason i used the mechanical lug vs the clamp is because of splicin location........if i spliced it closer to the wheel i would honestly switch to the clamps instead...
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#20 |
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Works for me:
http://www.engr.uconn.edu/~corrales/...1/IMG_7676.JPG Used the stock line, shortened the cables from the brakes themselves, spliced using te stock bracket and bolted to it. On the S14 there was really no where to splice further up. I've had it like this for a year now, and it's been holding great. Used a crimp wire connection to keep things simpler. instead of U bolts.
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